1LikesTeamC TS4-TS4Pro SC thread
09-29-2014, 12:32 PM
#1156
Definitely get the updated gear set! My truck has been flawless ever since. Broke a front and rear stock pinions in short order, but it's a non-issue now.
http://evohobbies.com/parts-hop-ups/...-shipping.html
I believe you want 2 oz. behind the battery. Pretty sure Team C sells a brass weight specifically for this purpose.
I noticed occasional nose diving with mine, but nowhere near as bad as any of the Teknos I've driven. My experience with all 4wd sct's is that I have to be much more aware of throttle input when leaving the face of a jump than with my 2wd's.
http://evohobbies.com/parts-hop-ups/...-shipping.html
I believe you want 2 oz. behind the battery. Pretty sure Team C sells a brass weight specifically for this purpose.
I noticed occasional nose diving with mine, but nowhere near as bad as any of the Teknos I've driven. My experience with all 4wd sct's is that I have to be much more aware of throttle input when leaving the face of a jump than with my 2wd's.
Last edited by J-RO; 09-29-2014 at 01:00 PM.
09-29-2014, 02:48 PM
#1158
cool thx!!!
10-07-2014, 05:44 PM
#1159
Looking for some ideas on the steering assembly on this truck. I've noticed that I'm lacking steering throw. Truck seems to lack steering on and off power. Off power seems to be the worst. It seems like the only way to get it to turn tight is to get the rear end to slide when entering a corner and that isn't always possible on the track I run on.
After looking at other trucks like the Tekno, Losi, and AE, it seems they all have more steering travel than the TS4. I was messing with it tonight to see if I could gain any throw, but it doesn't look like it's gonna happen. At full lock in either direction, the inner tie rod ends hit the front diff housing. The knuckles are also contacting the hubs, but I see where I can remove a decent amount of material in that area. However, I don't see any way of gaining any more clearance at the inner tie rod end and diff housing. There are no ackerman adjustments. Only thing I can think of is to get another set of bellcranks, fill the inner tie rod mounting holes and re-drill slightly further out on the bellcranks.
Any ideas on how to get more steering travel?
Diffs are currently 30/30/10 but I'm probably gonna go back to the 20/20/10 I was originally running. Seemed to turn-in a little better but I really think the steering travel is what's hurting my cornering the most.
After looking at other trucks like the Tekno, Losi, and AE, it seems they all have more steering travel than the TS4. I was messing with it tonight to see if I could gain any throw, but it doesn't look like it's gonna happen. At full lock in either direction, the inner tie rod ends hit the front diff housing. The knuckles are also contacting the hubs, but I see where I can remove a decent amount of material in that area. However, I don't see any way of gaining any more clearance at the inner tie rod end and diff housing. There are no ackerman adjustments. Only thing I can think of is to get another set of bellcranks, fill the inner tie rod mounting holes and re-drill slightly further out on the bellcranks.
Any ideas on how to get more steering travel?
Diffs are currently 30/30/10 but I'm probably gonna go back to the 20/20/10 I was originally running. Seemed to turn-in a little better but I really think the steering travel is what's hurting my cornering the most.
10-08-2014, 10:00 AM
#1160
Never had problems with steering with mine, it always turns in tight, esp off power. I know that some of the people in here use the higher diff fluid like in your setup, but mine works better on all the tracks with 5/5/3. Give that a try and see what you think.
10-08-2014, 10:32 AM
#1161
Harry, there are some obvious limitations to the steering travel on the TS4. However, there are several other ways you may increase the effect. I don't intend to sound elementary if you are an experienced chassis tuner. But I would like to make sure the following suggestions can help the novice TS4 driver too. Just don't try them all at once. It's best to start with one at a time.
1. Front Toe-Out: try increasing the angle up to 1-1.5deg, so that you will get a more aggressive turn-in at corner entries.
2. Servo Saver: check to make sure the adjustment nut has not backed off from the stock setting. Use a blue thread-lock to help keep it in place.
3. Ackerman: There is indeed an Ackerman adjustment, inner hole, or outer hole. The stock setting is in the outer hole. I have made the mistake before of using the inner hole, which is for buggy, not the truck
4. Lighter Front Diff Oil: If the front diff is too thick, it will not allow enough counter-rotation of the diff at corner-entry and mid-corner, making the truck push. Try 15K wt to see a significant difference compared to the stock 30K, which was more ideal for hot Summer dusty track conditions.
5. Sway Bar: Use the smallest one available for the front. If the track layout is small and twisty, then remove the front swaybar. This will allow more weight transfer to the outside front wheel when cornering.
6. Front Camber Link Length: Although the manual suggests a long link by mounting to the inside hole on the upper arm mount, try the outside hole, for a shorter link. This will increase camber-gain, rotation, and therefore cornering.
7. C-Hub Selection: The TS4 includes both the 10deg and 13deg C-hubs. In most conditions you will only need the 10deg. The 13deg is only for blown-out track conditions where the pot-holes are deep enough to create blind-spots.
Hopefully you will only need to make one or two of the above adjustments. My TS4 originally had severe over-steer, on and off-power. I have since made my steering more mild and forgiving, to suit for my driving style.
1. Front Toe-Out: try increasing the angle up to 1-1.5deg, so that you will get a more aggressive turn-in at corner entries.
2. Servo Saver: check to make sure the adjustment nut has not backed off from the stock setting. Use a blue thread-lock to help keep it in place.
3. Ackerman: There is indeed an Ackerman adjustment, inner hole, or outer hole. The stock setting is in the outer hole. I have made the mistake before of using the inner hole, which is for buggy, not the truck
4. Lighter Front Diff Oil: If the front diff is too thick, it will not allow enough counter-rotation of the diff at corner-entry and mid-corner, making the truck push. Try 15K wt to see a significant difference compared to the stock 30K, which was more ideal for hot Summer dusty track conditions.
5. Sway Bar: Use the smallest one available for the front. If the track layout is small and twisty, then remove the front swaybar. This will allow more weight transfer to the outside front wheel when cornering.
6. Front Camber Link Length: Although the manual suggests a long link by mounting to the inside hole on the upper arm mount, try the outside hole, for a shorter link. This will increase camber-gain, rotation, and therefore cornering.
7. C-Hub Selection: The TS4 includes both the 10deg and 13deg C-hubs. In most conditions you will only need the 10deg. The 13deg is only for blown-out track conditions where the pot-holes are deep enough to create blind-spots.
Hopefully you will only need to make one or two of the above adjustments. My TS4 originally had severe over-steer, on and off-power. I have since made my steering more mild and forgiving, to suit for my driving style.
10-08-2014, 04:25 PM
#1162
Harry, there are some obvious limitations to the steering travel on the TS4. However, there are several other ways you may increase the effect. I don't intend to sound elementary if you are an experienced chassis tuner. But I would like to make sure the following suggestions can help the novice TS4 driver too. Just don't try them all at once. It's best to start with one at a time.
1. Front Toe-Out: try increasing the angle up to 1-1.5deg, so that you will get a more aggressive turn-in at corner entries.
2. Servo Saver: check to make sure the adjustment nut has not backed off from the stock setting. Use a blue thread-lock to help keep it in place.
3. Ackerman: There is indeed an Ackerman adjustment, inner hole, or outer hole. The stock setting is in the outer hole. I have made the mistake before of using the inner hole, which is for buggy, not the truck
4. Lighter Front Diff Oil: If the front diff is too thick, it will not allow enough counter-rotation of the diff at corner-entry and mid-corner, making the truck push. Try 15K wt to see a significant difference compared to the stock 30K, which was more ideal for hot Summer dusty track conditions.
5. Sway Bar: Use the smallest one available for the front. If the track layout is small and twisty, then remove the front swaybar. This will allow more weight transfer to the outside front wheel when cornering.
6. Front Camber Link Length: Although the manual suggests a long link by mounting to the inside hole on the upper arm mount, try the outside hole, for a shorter link. This will increase camber-gain, rotation, and therefore cornering.
7. C-Hub Selection: The TS4 includes both the 10deg and 13deg C-hubs. In most conditions you will only need the 10deg. The 13deg is only for blown-out track conditions where the pot-holes are deep enough to create blind-spots.
Hopefully you will only need to make one or two of the above adjustments. My TS4 originally had severe over-steer, on and off-power. I have since made my steering more mild and forgiving, to suit for my driving style.
1. Front Toe-Out: try increasing the angle up to 1-1.5deg, so that you will get a more aggressive turn-in at corner entries.
2. Servo Saver: check to make sure the adjustment nut has not backed off from the stock setting. Use a blue thread-lock to help keep it in place.
3. Ackerman: There is indeed an Ackerman adjustment, inner hole, or outer hole. The stock setting is in the outer hole. I have made the mistake before of using the inner hole, which is for buggy, not the truck
4. Lighter Front Diff Oil: If the front diff is too thick, it will not allow enough counter-rotation of the diff at corner-entry and mid-corner, making the truck push. Try 15K wt to see a significant difference compared to the stock 30K, which was more ideal for hot Summer dusty track conditions.
5. Sway Bar: Use the smallest one available for the front. If the track layout is small and twisty, then remove the front swaybar. This will allow more weight transfer to the outside front wheel when cornering.
6. Front Camber Link Length: Although the manual suggests a long link by mounting to the inside hole on the upper arm mount, try the outside hole, for a shorter link. This will increase camber-gain, rotation, and therefore cornering.
7. C-Hub Selection: The TS4 includes both the 10deg and 13deg C-hubs. In most conditions you will only need the 10deg. The 13deg is only for blown-out track conditions where the pot-holes are deep enough to create blind-spots.
Hopefully you will only need to make one or two of the above adjustments. My TS4 originally had severe over-steer, on and off-power. I have since made my steering more mild and forgiving, to suit for my driving style.
Thanks for the reply. Some good info!
So far, I've tried messing with front toe. I gained a little turn-in but not enough for my liking. I'm definitely changing front diff fluid next. Possibly center also.
I'll see what affect the diff fluids have and try the camber links next. Removing the sway bar might be a good idea too. The track I'm running is fairly smooth and hard-packed clay. Lots of tight twisty corners everywhere. As long as I have some momentum going into a corner, I can get the rear end to come around and the truck corners great. But there is one turn in particular that gives me problems. A short tight rhythm section into a tight 180 right turn. It's not a very fast section and when I come into the corner, the truck barely wants to turn and most of the time I'm riding the outside pipe the whole way through the turn.
As for the ackerman, I did notice the two options on the drag link last night. Pretty sure I've never messed with it and it was set on the inner holes. So I changed that but it still just seems that the steering travel itself is lacking compared to my Tekno. When I compare the trucks side by side with the wheels at full lock to one side, the Tekno has significantly greater steering angle. I've been doing some thinking and may have an idea to gain more steering throw, but I'm not 100% sure yet.
I'm wondering if an adjustable length drag link would help?
Anyway, gonna lighten up the front diff fluid and take it to the track Sunday and see if the front diff and different ackerman setting helps. Then I'll start tuning more from there. I really like the truck and honestly think that if I get the steering to my liking, the TS4 will have an edge over the Tekno on our tight track.
10-08-2014, 05:01 PM
#1163
Front tire selection is very important too for steering the TS4. On tight tracks you must have some shoulder meat on the front tires. 
10-11-2014, 06:34 AM
#1164
Ok so far im preparing the truck for its first run. Diffs are 10 000F 5000C 3000R. 40w front shocks 35w rear shocks. Original springs. 56g added to the rear as suggested.
My thoughts on this set up is that I have not run 4wd in a couple of years so I wanted to make the truck as stable as possible with out being over tight.
Couple of questions. What seems to be a good ride height to run? Im aware that the reason for the nose diving may be the fact that the rear end slaps the face of the jumps.
As well will wheels that also fit a Kyosho SCR/SC6 fir this truck?
My thoughts on this set up is that I have not run 4wd in a couple of years so I wanted to make the truck as stable as possible with out being over tight.
Couple of questions. What seems to be a good ride height to run? Im aware that the reason for the nose diving may be the fact that the rear end slaps the face of the jumps.
As well will wheels that also fit a Kyosho SCR/SC6 fir this truck?
10-11-2014, 07:58 PM
#1165
Tech Rookie
Castle 3800
Just ordered a TS4 wondering what would be a good starting point for gearing with this motor? Thanks
10-15-2014, 03:05 PM
#1166
Ok so far im preparing the truck for its first run. Diffs are 10 000F 5000C 3000R. 40w front shocks 35w rear shocks. Original springs. 56g added to the rear as suggested.
My thoughts on this set up is that I have not run 4wd in a couple of years so I wanted to make the truck as stable as possible with out being over tight.
Couple of questions. What seems to be a good ride height to run? Im aware that the reason for the nose diving may be the fact that the rear end slaps the face of the jumps.
As well will wheels that also fit a Kyosho SCR/SC6 fir this truck?
My thoughts on this set up is that I have not run 4wd in a couple of years so I wanted to make the truck as stable as possible with out being over tight.
Couple of questions. What seems to be a good ride height to run? Im aware that the reason for the nose diving may be the fact that the rear end slaps the face of the jumps.
As well will wheels that also fit a Kyosho SCR/SC6 fir this truck?
Not sure what wheels the Kyosho uses, but the Ofna runs the same wheels as the Blitz and Slash rears.
10-15-2014, 03:10 PM
#1167
I made some progress with my truck last weekend. Went with 15/15/5 in the diffs and added some more toe out in the front. Made quite a difference with steering. Still want to try to get a little more out of it though. Think I might drop to 10/10/5 next.
I also tried running one of my spare 1/10th scale systems in the truck. Have an older LRP Sphere Comp and X-12 8.5 combo that was just sitting on the bench and decided to throw it in. It was surprisingly fast and had great acceleration. Unfortunately, the track was pretty muddy and after a few minutes of taking on mud, the little 8.5 started to struggle with the extra weight. If it were dry out, I think it would have been ok. Probably just gonna throw the MMP and Tekin Pro4 4600kv back in it though.
I also tried running one of my spare 1/10th scale systems in the truck. Have an older LRP Sphere Comp and X-12 8.5 combo that was just sitting on the bench and decided to throw it in. It was surprisingly fast and had great acceleration. Unfortunately, the track was pretty muddy and after a few minutes of taking on mud, the little 8.5 started to struggle with the extra weight. If it were dry out, I think it would have been ok. Probably just gonna throw the MMP and Tekin Pro4 4600kv back in it though.
10-16-2014, 01:39 AM
#1168
I Run mine on a clay indoor that requires alot of steering , Have done most of what Roy said above,
550cst all round,
Durango BORDEAUX 99gf/mm front springs, Stock rear,
5/10/5 diff oils,
battery moved backwards instead of weight added
Has great steering, and good jumping balance, Just need to work on a bit of rear end stability and it will will be perfect, Already tones faster
550cst all round,
Durango BORDEAUX 99gf/mm front springs, Stock rear,
5/10/5 diff oils,
battery moved backwards instead of weight added
Has great steering, and good jumping balance, Just need to work on a bit of rear end stability and it will will be perfect, Already tones faster
10-16-2014, 03:49 AM
#1169
Ok so far im preparing the truck for its first run. Diffs are 10 000F 5000C 3000R. 40w front shocks 35w rear shocks. Original springs. 56g added to the rear as suggested.
My thoughts on this set up is that I have not run 4wd in a couple of years so I wanted to make the truck as stable as possible with out being over tight.
Couple of questions. What seems to be a good ride height to run? Im aware that the reason for the nose diving may be the fact that the rear end slaps the face of the jumps.
As well will wheels that also fit a Kyosho SCR/SC6 fir this truck?
My thoughts on this set up is that I have not run 4wd in a couple of years so I wanted to make the truck as stable as possible with out being over tight.
Couple of questions. What seems to be a good ride height to run? Im aware that the reason for the nose diving may be the fact that the rear end slaps the face of the jumps.
As well will wheels that also fit a Kyosho SCR/SC6 fir this truck?
With the above set up truck seemed to want to over steer into higher speed corners, not sure if its the rear end coming around or the front rotating to much or if its just grabbing to much in the front. As well the front seemed to be pretty bouncy over the little studder bumps or small holes.
11-09-2014, 05:03 PM
#1170
Tech Rookie
tie rods
I have just gotten my ofna ts4 and raced it for the first time today and I broke the front turnbuckel and the rear. Is there a reason I broke these?