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Old 01-23-2014, 01:00 PM
  #1081  
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Thank you evohobbies the parts came today. Now i am ready.
Attached Thumbnails TeamC TS4-TS4Pro SC thread-0123141448.jpg   TeamC TS4-TS4Pro SC thread-0123141449.jpg   TeamC TS4-TS4Pro SC thread-0123141449a.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:30 PM
  #1082  
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Originally Posted by steveoebd View Post
Thank you evohobbies the parts came today. Now i am ready.
Nice, glad to see that. You like the Viper setup in your TS4? I run the 4500 version and it's pretty solid.
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by J_Fowler View Post
Nice, glad to see that. You like the Viper setup in your TS4? I run the 4500 version and it's pretty solid.
yes i love it. i run the 5150 version it is awsome on indoor clay

although i think it may be a little much sometimes on the track i run on lol. i was thinking about trying out the 4500

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Old 01-23-2014, 04:28 PM
  #1084  
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Originally Posted by J_Fowler View Post
Originally Posted by J_Fowler View Post
That's why I've had success as an online hobby shop. I specialize in Team C stuff and carry almost every part for the Team C cars. They're great cars, and I do the best I can to help support the brand.

However, I'm just a guy that does this out of a spare bedroom of his house to be honest. I've been in business since early 2012, and don't plan on slowing down.

While I have a pretty good inventory that's getting better as time goes along, I can't afford to stock every part & every hop-up for every Team C car. I'm trying to get there, but it's a process.

Just my $0.02
Awesome Jeff !
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:47 PM
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I just picked up the OFNA Pro roller version of this truck and posted my experience over on the OFNa thread. Figured I would post here too since it seems like there is a lot more traffic on this thread.





Well, I'm not off to a very good start with this truck. My tires showed up yesterday and I got them mounted-up this afternoon. Threw a 2S lipo in it and set it down on the kitchen floor for a quick test. Pulled the throttle for the first time and the truck went about 3 feet and locked-up. I narrowed it down to the front drive line. After moving the front wheels back and forth by hand, it became obvious that there was a problem inside the front diff housing. Pulled it apart and found this:



Two teeth ripped clean off of the front pinion gear. All this from less than 1 second on a linoleum floor. Already contacted OFNA and I'm under the impression that they're sending me a new gear. That's great but now I'll be waiting for another week to try this thing out.

I've seen several posts around the internet about the gears breaking like this, but none this quickly. And from what I've been reading, it sounded like this issue was corrected from the factory with different shimming.

Anybody have any tips to keep this from happening again? The guy I spoke to at OFNA seemed to think that it was just a fluke and to install the new gear the same as the original.
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:52 PM
  #1086  
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you need to run the front mesh on the tight side, optional machined gears are either available or about to be available within the next couple of weeks. Also make sure and use grease, lithium is really good.

Looking closely at the pic it looks like you are using some sort of thin oil or nothing at all. it still should not have happened that quick though.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:03 PM
  #1087  
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Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
I just picked up the OFNA Pro roller version of this truck and posted my experience over on the OFNa thread. Figured I would post here too since it seems like there is a lot more traffic on this thread.





Well, I'm not off to a very good start with this truck. My tires showed up yesterday and I got them mounted-up this afternoon. Threw a 2S lipo in it and set it down on the kitchen floor for a quick test. Pulled the throttle for the first time and the truck went about 3 feet and locked-up. I narrowed it down to the front drive line. After moving the front wheels back and forth by hand, it became obvious that there was a problem inside the front diff housing. Pulled it apart and found this:



Two teeth ripped clean off of the front pinion gear. All this from less than 1 second on a linoleum floor. Already contacted OFNA and I'm under the impression that they're sending me a new gear. That's great but now I'll be waiting for another week to try this thing out.

I've seen several posts around the internet about the gears breaking like this, but none this quickly. And from what I've been reading, it sounded like this issue was corrected from the factory with different shimming.

Anybody have any tips to keep this from happening again? The guy I spoke to at OFNA seemed to think that it was just a fluke and to install the new gear the same as the original.
lucky u, free gears, and only one week
with these casted gears, you need to make sure the mesh is very good, put huge amount of black grease on, and get a bit more easy on power. Maybe think about using a 4000kv instead of 4600-5200kv stuff.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:21 PM
  #1088  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
you need to run the front mesh on the tight side, optional machined gears are either available or about to be available within the next couple of weeks. Also make sure and use grease, lithium is really good.

Looking closely at the pic it looks like you are using some sort of thin oil or nothing at all. it still should not have happened that quick though.



How would I go about making the mesh tighter? I'm guessing shims, but where and how many more should I try?

I'm not using anything for lube other than what came with the truck. It's brand new and has only moved 3-5 feet since I removed it from the box. The oil is most likely diff oil that leaked out while sitting in a warehouse. Will put some lithium on it when I go for round two though.

I did refill all the diffs first thing after opening the box. There was a small puddle of fluid on the chassis, under the CD so I figured I should just tear it down and check everything.




Originally Posted by nicholasxuu View Post
lucky u, free gears, and only one week
with these casted gears, you need to make sure the mesh is very good, put huge amount of black grease on, and get a bit more easy on power. Maybe think about using a 4000kv instead of 4600-5200kv stuff.
Don't think I can be much easier on the power. This was on a linoleum floor in my kitchen. And my kitchen isn't very big. I'm running a 4600, but the battery I tested the truck with wasn't even charged before installing. Hopefully this was just a defective gear and next try will be much better.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
How would I go about making the mesh tighter? I'm guessing shims, but where and how many more should I try?

I'm not using anything for lube other than what came with the truck. It's brand new and has only moved 3-5 feet since I removed it from the box. The oil is most likely diff oil that leaked out while sitting in a warehouse. Will put some lithium on it when I go for round two though.

I did refill all the diffs first thing after opening the box. There was a small puddle of fluid on the chassis, under the CD so I figured I should just tear it down and check everything.






Don't think I can be much easier on the power. This was on a linoleum floor in my kitchen. And my kitchen isn't very big. I'm running a 4600, but the battery I tested the truck with wasn't even charged before installing. Hopefully this was just a defective gear and next try will be much better.
about how to mesh it correctly.
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...box-pro-build/
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:32 PM
  #1090  
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Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
How would I go about making the mesh tighter? I'm guessing shims, but where and how many more should I try?

I'm not using anything for lube other than what came with the truck. It's brand new and has only moved 3-5 feet since I removed it from the box. The oil is most likely diff oil that leaked out while sitting in a warehouse. Will put some lithium on it when I go for round two though.

I did refill all the diffs first thing after opening the box. There was a small puddle of fluid on the chassis, under the CD so I figured I should just tear it down and check everything.






Don't think I can be much easier on the power. This was on a linoleum floor in my kitchen. And my kitchen isn't very big. I'm running a 4600, but the battery I tested the truck with wasn't even charged before installing. Hopefully this was just a defective gear and next try will be much better.
Is this truck pre- built?

As far as the shims go you shim them per dif ie they will not all be the same and the front shimming may be different than the front.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu View Post
Thanks for the link! Are the shims for the Durango the same as the TS4? Do you have a link on where to get the correct shims?
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Is this truck pre- built?

As far as the shims go you shim them per dif ie they will not all be the same and the front shimming may be different than the front.
Yes, truck is pre-built.

I just did some checking on the front diff. After reading the link for shimming the Durango diffs, I found that everything seems nice and tight. No play anywhere except for when I held both out drives tight and tried to turn the input shaft. There was a very slight bit of play or lash. The truck came with two shims on the input shaft, between the bearing and pinion gear. I ended up taking one of them out and replaced it with a slightly thicker shim I had here. Put it back together and it feels even better. No play at all and it actually feels a little smoother. Input shaft actually "popped" into the diff housing after re-shimming it too. Seems like a step in the right direction.

Could this possibly be the cause of the gear failure? Didn't seem excessive at all but there definitely was a little play there.


BTW Marcus, those machined gears you mentioned. Are they something you are working on or are they an O.E.M. item? Do you have any more info on them?
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:03 PM
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Ok, so I've been doing more research on the diff situation. Some say to shim the input gear as tight as possible without binding. Then I read that the mesh shouldn't be that tight and there should be a little play to allow for expanding of materials and any high spots or imperfection in the gears.

I'm honestly not 100% convinced that the shimming is the main problem. This is far from my first vehicle with this type of setup. I've had several 1/8th buggies and truggies and also some monster trucks that used similar gear sets and while proper shim placement was important, I never suffered any gear failures from a little bit of play in the mesh. Seems like these gears are just not all that great.

New gear is in the mail, but I'm just not convinced on what to do. Right now I have the diffs shimmed as tightly as possible without any binding. All seems well, but now I'm reading that there should be play. And on top of that, the guy I talked to at OFNA said that it was probably a fluke and to just replace the gear and not mess with anything else.

I guess I just need you guys to make up my mind for me.

Hopefully a better replacement gear will be available soon!
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
Yes, truck is pre-built.

I just did some checking on the front diff. After reading the link for shimming the Durango diffs, I found that everything seems nice and tight. No play anywhere except for when I held both out drives tight and tried to turn the input shaft. There was a very slight bit of play or lash. The truck came with two shims on the input shaft, between the bearing and pinion gear. I ended up taking one of them out and replaced it with a slightly thicker shim I had here. Put it back together and it feels even better. No play at all and it actually feels a little smoother. Input shaft actually "popped" into the diff housing after re-shimming it too. Seems like a step in the right direction.

Could this possibly be the cause of the gear failure? Didn't seem excessive at all but there definitely was a little play there.


BTW Marcus, those machined gears you mentioned. Are they something you are working on or are they an O.E.M. item? Do you have any more info on them?
They are optional and are just about due for release.

Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
Ok, so I've been doing more research on the diff situation. Some say to shim the input gear as tight as possible without binding. Then I read that the mesh shouldn't be that tight and there should be a little play to allow for expanding of materials and any high spots or imperfection in the gears.

I'm honestly not 100% convinced that the shimming is the main problem. This is far from my first vehicle with this type of setup. I've had several 1/8th buggies and truggies and also some monster trucks that used similar gear sets and while proper shim placement was important, I never suffered any gear failures from a little bit of play in the mesh. Seems like these gears are just not all that great.

New gear is in the mail, but I'm just not convinced on what to do. Right now I have the diffs shimmed as tightly as possible without any binding. All seems well, but now I'm reading that there should be play. And on top of that, the guy I talked to at OFNA said that it was probably a fluke and to just replace the gear and not mess with anything else.

I guess I just need you guys to make up my mind for me.

Hopefully a better replacement gear will be available soon!

Well the OFNA guy is 100% wrong!! Roy has the best technique for keeping them in tact, I have had best luck keeping them so you just feel a slight bit of drag at one point in the rotation.And while you have it apart replace the bearings with some higher quality units like Avid revolutions, they are only a dollar each and are much more durable. I will have steel shield bearings at RCShox. in a couple of weeks.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
They are optional and are just about due for release.




Well the OFNA guy is 100% wrong!! Roy has the best technique for keeping them in tact, I have had best luck keeping them so you just feel a slight bit of drag at one point in the rotation.And while you have it apart replace the bearings with some higher quality units like Avid revolutions, they are only a dollar each and are much more durable. I will have steel shield bearings at RCShox. in a couple of weeks.


Thanks. I did a lot of reading in this thread before purchasing the truck and took your advice and got a set of ABEC5 bearings the same night I bought the truck. Installed them after initial tear down when re-filling the diffs.

I think I currently have the diffs shimmed as well as possible. Rear diff had a slight bit of play in the mesh after my first attempt, so I tried one more of the thinnest shim I could find and it was too much and caused excessive binding. Diffs have no side play at all from the factory. I can't see anything else that can be tightened up any more.

Would I be correct in assuming that these upgraded gears will be available on the RCShox website? Any word on pricing yet?
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