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TeamC TS4-TS4Pro SC thread

Old 05-11-2013, 01:24 AM
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Not the shock cap, the eyelet on the end of the rod.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by cottonkidd View Post
There's the man with the plan! So I literally take the shock end caps off of a traxxas and use them?

Like Hoese says, the eyelets that screw into the arms are all you need and 3mm should be more than enough droop but you can always turn them out if more is needed.

I havent been running much offroad here lately as i have been campaigning the Team C GT8 nitro car. But I am about to get the TS4 back on track here soon. I think it needs a little more weight and just for kicks i am going to try and install some 16mm shocks just to see what happens, on our big outdoor tracks.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Like Hoese says, the eyelets that screw into the arms are all you need and 3mm should be more than enough droop but you can always turn them out if more is needed.

I havent been running much offroad here lately as i have been campaigning the Team C GT8 nitro car. But I am about to get the TS4 back on track here soon. I think it needs a little more weight and just for kicks i am going to try and install some 16mm shocks just to see what happens, on our big outdoor tracks.


Thanks guys.... I know everyone has their on setup and way about doing things. I'm still kinda confused on how different eyelets will change the droop. And I thought droop was from where your truck sits normally to where you pick it up and when the tires come up off the ground you stop there and measure. Hell all this is confusing to me ha! But I'm slowly learning!
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:55 AM
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Also my friend bought a used hyper 10sc and it came with this little cable that I can't identify. It has a female plug that looks like the esc or servo would plug into then goes into a circuit board and back out to a male plug that looks like it would plug into the receiver. The board has a tiny button on it. They guy he got the truck from said he didn't even know what it was for. Could it be just a fancy on/off switch?
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by cottonkidd View Post
Thanks guys.... I know everyone has their on setup and way about doing things. I'm still kinda confused on how different eyelets will change the droop. And I thought droop was from where your truck sits normally to where you pick it up and when the tires come up off the ground you stop there and measure. Hell all this is confusing to me ha! But I'm slowly learning!
Droop is the suspension down travel and is normally measured from the bottom of the chassis to the lowest point on the arm (usually at the outside hinge pin). Normally you dont have to mess with it on high grip tracks but as the grip goes down you need more front droop. You can use droop to limit traction on that end of the truck. In stock form the kit has very little front droop therefore has a tendency to push in low grip situations, adding more dropp will give you more steering and the truck will be more stable in the rough stuff. The traxxas eyelets are 3mm longer therefore giving you 3mm more droop which in turn give you more steering!
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:50 AM
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Ha! What would I do without you guys! And I do have a high traction track but at the end of the day all that changes and it gets powdery and loose and I just spin around each turn. I'm gonna take all this info and see what I can do with it thought the day today. I will keep you posted and I'm sure I will have more questions! Thanks for the help!
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by cottonkidd View Post
Ha! What would I do without you guys! And I do have a high traction track but at the end of the day all that changes and it gets powdery and loose and I just spin around each turn. I'm gonna take all this info and see what I can do with it thought the day today. I will keep you posted and I'm sure I will have more questions! Thanks for the help!
Lower your dif fluids for sure. Low dif fluids will work in high grip situations and better in low grip while high fluids will work better in high grip but are horrible in low grip. The truck likes a low ride height, minimal toe out and no more than 1* front camber in most situations. I make lots of products that will aid in the handling of this truck. Number one being the 2 stage pistons which increase grip, quicker transitions, jump higher and farther and settle the truck down.
http://www.rcshox.com/teamc-2stage-p...for-bb-shocks/
SEcondly are the Roll center plates which allow you to adjust how the truck enters and exits turns via camber linkage.
http://www.rcshox.com/teamc-roll-center-plates/
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:51 PM
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So whats the good base setup?
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
So whats the good base setup?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-thread-5.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzU-Ja5sJAQ
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Lower your dif fluids for sure. Low dif fluids will work in high grip situations and better in low grip while high fluids will work better in high grip but are horrible in low grip. The truck likes a low ride height, minimal toe out and no more than 1* front camber in most situations. I make lots of products that will aid in the handling of this truck. Number one being the 2 stage pistons which increase grip, quicker transitions, jump higher and farther and settle the truck down.
http://www.rcshox.com/teamc-2stage-p...for-bb-shocks/
SEcondly are the Roll center plates which allow you to adjust how the truck enters and exits turns via camber linkage.
http://www.rcshox.com/teamc-roll-center-plates/


How low on the dif fluid should I go? What comes stock in them, do you know? And if I get the roll center plates will you give me a little "how to" lesson on when I need to make adjustments and how I know which way I need to go with them? Im thinking heavily on sending you my truck like we talked about a while back. Problem is I will never learn if I don't do it myself! I am going to order the 2 stage pistons this week or next. Do I need anything other than what you are going to send me? Also I switched out to 50w shock oil, will I need to go down or stay the same with the 2 stage? With the center roll plates do all the extended screws come with them or do I even need longer screws? I just see the red ones in the pic and where they mount it looks like maybe they would need to be a little long. For the front at least. I saw on your youtube video you posted for the last person you are running double springs in rear and losi silvers in the front. I have stock fronts and losi silver in the rear. Am I all wrong or does it just totally depend on the person?
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cottonkidd View Post
How low on the dif fluid should I go? What comes stock in them, do you know?
I like 15/15/7, I think stock is 30/30/10??

And if I get the roll center plates will you give me a little "how to" lesson on when I need to make adjustments and how I know which way I need to go with them?

Yea no prob, its pretty simple and you rarely have to mess with them too much
Im thinking heavily on sending you my truck like we talked about a while back. Problem is I will never learn if I don't do it myself!

True but its alot easier to learn if you start with a good working base
I am going to order the 2 stage pistons this week or next. Do I need anything other than what you are going to send me? Also I switched out to 50w shock oil, will I need to go down or stay the same with the 2 stage?
I suggest switching to CST rated fluids , they are more precise and accurate. you will need to start off with 450/250


With the center roll plates do all the extended screws come with them or do I even need longer screws? I just see the red ones in the pic and where they mount it looks like maybe they would need to be a little long. For the front at least.

The plates come with 4 additional screws, the new version have counter bored holes on the top so you only need 4 extra
I saw on your youtube video you posted for the last person you are running double springs in rear and losi silvers in the front. I have stock fronts and losi silver in the rear. Am I all wrong or does it just totally depend on the person?
Thats WAAAAAY off!! the silvers are entirely too stiff and the fronts are too soft, that combo will make the truck very hard to drive. back will not plant and the front will "dig" bad, making the truck over rotate off power
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Thats WAAAAAY off!! the silvers are entirely too stiff and the fronts are too soft, that combo will make the truck very hard to drive. back will not plant and the front will "dig" bad, making the truck over rotate off power


check this out: http://www.nitrohouse.com/OFNA-TS4-P...Tips_b_30.html


this is exactly how my truck is set up except dif fluids and 50w all the way around on shock oil
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:20 PM
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and im assuming that's 450 front and 250 rear?
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:27 PM
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They suggest losi SCTE springs which do not fit properly on the shock, the TLR 22B and T springs are a direct fit. The springs that come on the OFNA version are not the same as the Team C springs, i have no idea what rate the black springs are.

yes 450 f/250R
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
They suggest losi SCTE springs which do not fit properly on the shock, the TLR 22B and T springs are a direct fit. The springs that come on the OFNA version are not the same as the Team C springs, i have no idea what rate the black springs are.

yes 450 f/250R


yea I got you. and yes you are right about them not fitting well. I had to use the plastic shock holders and screw the adjustment nut all the way down just to hold them in. So what springs do you suggest I use after I make all the above adjustments? and do you think I should go back to stock springs for now and ditch the losi scte springs? And im not sure If the stock springs are medium or hard either. I don't think they are soft. Thanks again for all the very helpful info!
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