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TeamC TS4-TS4Pro SC thread

Old 04-30-2013, 03:56 PM
  #871  
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http://www.castlecreations.com/products/ccbec.html# check out the wiring diagram.
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:01 PM
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THANKS! still makes me nervous! i cant afford to mess anything up right now!
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:09 PM
  #873  
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Originally Posted by cottonkidd View Post
well I have a dsm2 receiver for my DX3S. Is that what you mean? Should I change servos?
don't bother with reciever, dsm1 is fine. DSM2 is safer (no signal problem), and enables 5.5ms response (11.1ms for DSM1, that's 1/100 of a second, much faster than human's response what so ever), and it's only for DX3R controllers.
You won't feel the difference until you reached some level anyways.


The big problem you have in your electronics is the ESC, it has a well known weak BEC, means it will struggle to provide enough power to receiver, thus together with servo, fan, etc.
Castle is so bad at making internal BEC that they just removed is completely for some versions, telling user to get their external BEC.
$20, get it, find people in local track to help you setup it.

battery, use high C if possible, or you will damage the battery.

durability stuff, like linkages, etc. search this thread, we've posted a lot already.

Setup can be a struggle, differs a lot depends on the track and the layout.
it has 12mm big bore, like majority of 4wd SCT, you can pretty much ask local good racers for shock setup.
those diff are small in this car, you need much thicker diff fluid than those losi/tekno etc.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:51 AM
  #874  
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Spectrum and savox do not mix. I tried running this combo about a year ago and it caused more glitching then you could imagine. I added a cap to the receiver ( nitro btw) and it helped a little, but not enough. I sold the remote and got an airtronics and no issues since, in my electrics or nitros. So if they are saying the BEC in the MMP doesn't like the savox servos either then I could imagine your frustration. I did see a local with the similar issue run a receiver pack to his RX and had no issues. If the BEC doesn't fix it you could try that.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:22 AM
  #875  
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Originally Posted by 8drenlnjunkE View Post
Spectrum and savox do not mix. I tried running this combo about a year ago and it caused more glitching then you could imagine. I added a cap to the receiver ( nitro btw) and it helped a little, but not enough. I sold the remote and got an airtronics and no issues since, in my electrics or nitros. So if they are saying the BEC in the MMP doesn't like the savox servos either then I could imagine your frustration. I did see a local with the similar issue run a receiver pack to his RX and had no issues. If the BEC doesn't fix it you could try that.
spektrum reciever doesn't like low voltage, and savox servo is quite power hungry.
However, as soon as there's a normal strong BEC inside the ESC, there's no problem at all.
*btw, remember to use a good battery, 25-30C battery for 4wd SC isn't a good idea, and may lead to similar problem as well (motor drains all the power and no power left for BEC).
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:53 PM
  #876  
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Thanks for all the help and input guys! I knew I could come here and get all the info I needed plus some! I purchased and installed the BEC last night but its been raining non stop here and I can't test it really. Also my race partner has a C-Link adapter and I need to change the voltage output on the BEC with that. It's defaulted at 5.4 I think and I read it needs to be at 7.4 when running high power servos and 2s lipo batteries. Anyone else know if that's right?

About the batteries. I have only been buying 20c batteries it turns out. I didn't know about the c rating until after I bought my other ones. So nothing below 35c? I ran a 70c battery once and still had that problem it only once and that was before the BEC was installed.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by cottonkidd View Post
Thanks for all the help and input guys! I knew I could come here and get all the info I needed plus some! I purchased and installed the BEC last night but its been raining non stop here and I can't test it really. Also my race partner has a C-Link adapter and I need to change the voltage output on the BEC with that. It's defaulted at 5.4 I think and I read it needs to be at 7.4 when running high power servos and 2s lipo batteries. Anyone else know if that's right?

About the batteries. I have only been buying 20c batteries it turns out. I didn't know about the c rating until after I bought my other ones. So nothing below 35c? I ran a 70c battery once and still had that problem it only once and that was before the BEC was installed.
6V 2A is what normal ESC's build in BEC supplies.
if your servo allows 7.4V, you have the option to set your external BEC to go 7.4V, just more performance out of the servo.

battery, I'd recommend to go high as possible, 35C or 40C constant is the minimum you want I guess.
I used to have 25C battery when I just got in this hobby, knowing nothing. The battery just puffs and looks dangerous after 30 cycles. After that all my packs are over 50C.
Though I know there's a quick guy here using 35-70C battery, and driving a heavy tekno SCT410, what he do is to use the RX8's current limit and go with less punch. (he loves little power w/ smooth driving, and he actually have a 17.5t motor in his 1/10 4wd buggy).
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:44 PM
  #878  
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Ok so I programmed the BEC to 7.4 volts. And I went into my esc with the c-link card and it also let me turn the internal BEC up to 7 volts if I needed to. Could I just have done that rather than buy the BEC. I'm glad I bought it but I'm just curious. Also in the c link I tried to do a "motor test" for some type of timing. Has anyone ever done this? I couldn't get the motor to spin because I had the esc plugged into the c link adapter. The instructions didn't make much sense. Also any one have any idea on a receiver box or cover for it I can get for this truck? I hate all the dirt dumping down in there all the time and I want to play on the wet roads at my house but I can't because it fills up with water under there.

Btw I was an idiot and plugged my BEC into my "lap" plug on my telemetry receiver and fried it! But one quick live chat with my new friends at amainhobbies.com they are shipping me a new one no questions asked!
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:23 PM
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Ok I have another question! ha! If my servo can handle
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .16
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 347.2
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .13
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 416.6

And my receiver can handle 3.2-9.6 volts, shouldn't I be able to crank up my external BEC? It was on 7.4volts and I cranked it up to 8.1 and it worked for an entire race day. Then today I was running it and all of a sudden I had crazy power problems! I'm wondering if its really my crappy batteries causing all these problems. My mmp got so hot today (and it never gets hot) that the fan was not even working and all the lights kept flashing and it was beeping like I've never heard before. My servo out of no where just started going left, right, left, right, left, right until I unhooked the BEC. But then I was under voltage and kept glitching out bad. I plugged in the BEC and dropped it back down to 7.4volts and seemed to get better but still not exactly right. This Savox servo is awesome but its also very noisy when I'm sitting still with a battery plugged in. Also is there any need for the Spektrum Voltage protector with my BEC plugged in? I'm so over these power problems, I am ready to sell it all and start over with a new setup! I also have a Tekin Redline 7.5 sensored motor. It was going in the trash by someone so I snatched it up to see if it was worth rebuilding as a backup. Problem is I don't know how to even troubleshoot a brushless motor. When I hook it up and hit the throttle it starts to spin and just gets really glitchy and then the wires get hot like instantly and I have to unhook it. Any ideas?

Now to the shocks, Today I hit a ramp at the track a few times and my truck just slapped the ground from about 3-4ft up really hard. I'm using all the stock setup and I went straight off the nitrohouse.com video on how to build the "emulsion shocks" that come with the ts4. I have 32.5 in front and 22.5 in rear. Thanks again guys!
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:31 PM
  #880  
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Oh and I just ordered the snr graphite pieces from nitro house and they should be here Saturday and I can put them on. Will that change much? HAHA I need a personal RC teacher for about a month. I have watched video after video but I am the kind of person that has to do it and have to fic these problems on my own truck. Parts I really don't understand is gearing, shocks (when to go up or down on fluid wt. and springs) and differentials (when to go up or down on oil). Any such references you guys may know of?
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:20 AM
  #881  
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That servo is not High Voltage compatible. Chances are you damaged some of the electronics inside it. Savox sevos are known to be noisier than others, that parts ok.

As for the Tekin Redline motor, toss it. Its got an internal short somewhere. Its also not going to work well in a 4wd SC truck.

I never build my shocks emulsion style, its not consistent. Sounds like you need to go up in shock oils. The stock pistons are very light for a heavy truck, so either get some new pistons with less holes, or go up in your oil. Im currently running the stock pistons with 50wt front and rear. Also add about 2-3mm of fuel tubing to the shock shafts by the spring cup. Our trucks have too much up travel in the front, and that causes the axle to get caught in the diff cup and break the cup. Youll probably already see marks on the axle from the cup.

When setting up your shocks, your springs determine how strong your suspension is, and the oil determins the speed the suspension reacts at. Personally I set the suspension up so that it still bottoms out, but doesnt rebound up and make the rear bounce. Generally the front is setup harder because it takes most of the hits, and the rear just follows what the front does.

Diffs are tuned by how you want the car to react in corners. A light front diff will turn into the corner better. A heavier diff will pull out of the corner harder. Center diff sets your power distribution. Light settings will make the front end drive more. Again it will turn into a corner better. A heavier oil will pull out harder, but will make it less stable when steering possibly causing it to oversteer. A light rear diff will make the car rotate better, heavier will make it accelerate better in a straight line. You want to run the heaviest oil that will still allow the car to rotate nicely. Im running 7F 7C 5R.

Hope this info helps.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
That servo is not High Voltage compatible. Chances are you damaged some of the electronics inside it. Savox sevos are known to be noisier than others, that parts ok.

As for the Tekin Redline motor, toss it. Its got an internal short somewhere. Its also not going to work well in a 4wd SC truck.

I never build my shocks emulsion style, its not consistent. Sounds like you need to go up in shock oils. The stock pistons are very light for a heavy truck, so either get some new pistons with less holes, or go up in your oil. Im currently running the stock pistons with 50wt front and rear. Also add about 2-3mm of fuel tubing to the shock shafts by the spring cup. Our trucks have too much up travel in the front, and that causes the axle to get caught in the diff cup and break the cup. Youll probably already see marks on the axle from the cup.

When setting up your shocks, your springs determine how strong your suspension is, and the oil determins the speed the suspension reacts at. Personally I set the suspension up so that it still bottoms out, but doesnt rebound up and make the rear bounce. Generally the front is setup harder because it takes most of the hits, and the rear just follows what the front does.

Diffs are tuned by how you want the car to react in corners. A light front diff will turn into the corner better. A heavier diff will pull out of the corner harder. Center diff sets your power distribution. Light settings will make the front end drive more. Again it will turn into a corner better. A heavier oil will pull out harder, but will make it less stable when steering possibly causing it to oversteer. A light rear diff will make the car rotate better, heavier will make it accelerate better in a straight line. You want to run the heaviest oil that will still allow the car to rotate nicely. Im running 7F 7C 5R.

Hope this info helps.


Yes that helps a lot! so if my servo is not high powered then what is? Why do I need this BEC to stop the glitching? On my c-link programmer I can turn my internal BEC up to 7v. Shouldn't that be more than enough? The servo is fine now that I turned the BEC back down to 7.4v.

The shocks are kind of confusing. I actually thought my truck was very light. And do I only add the fuel tubing to the front? I do see the wearing on the axel near the dif cup. The set up sheet I use is here -

https://www.nitrohouse.com/OFNA-TS4-...Tips_b_30.html


And I getting the snr parts tomorrow. What do you think about that set up? Should I do away with the losi springs? They barly fit they are so short. I have the adjustment nut all the way down and I had to use the plastic shock bottoms to keep them in. What are the plastic caps that came with the shocks? They have a vent hole in them I think. Also someone recommended I get traxxas shock caps to add more droop. Ha I don't think I have any droop at all. My truck sits where it sits. I have a friend with a Nexx 10 and our shock set up feels completely different. We are building a short course track and we don't have any jumps yet just a flat dirt track with an integrated oval track. So we don't know how our trucks will respond at all to jumps or anything like that. We brought in a portable home made ramp yesterday just messing around and I jumped once and quit. It was horrible. I will go up on the shock oil like you said and see how that goes. It makes sense that the emulsion shocks are like you said because in the video it said they build up pressure and stiffin up. Well before I put them on I messed with them just to see and not once did they get tough or were they limited on travel and I prob over simulated what the shocks do normally.

My dif oils I think I'm going to leave stock for now. At least until I break them or have a reason to take them apart. I love the way my truck drives other than the power glitching and the jumping issue. It handles amazing when its running good. And fast as I need it to be. I got curious and dumb and put my 3s lipo in there and holy shit did it fly. 44mph on my iPhone GPS app and my telemetry according to the measurements I had to get it was 43mph. But the telemetry is revolutions of course but I've tested this phone app out and it's pretty accurate. I hope these shock towers hold up and I hope they make a difference. I don't know which hole to start in or which way to go to change set ups but ill figure it out I'm sure. Thanks again for all the info man.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:55 PM
  #883  
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Th reson you need the BEC isnt because of the voltage, its because of the amp draw. The speed control cant get the power out fast enough for that servo and receiver.

I see many people running the losi springs on their trucks. The plastic caps have a vent hole for bleeding the shocks. I beleive people run the Slash front shock shafts, not the caps. Droop is the amount of travel that the suspension can drop from your set ride height.

Im running my SNR towers in the middle hole. A tip for CF towers is to put a bead of tire glue around the edges where you see the layers of CF, and wipe it away with a paper towel. This will seal the edges and keep it from fraying.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:38 PM
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You only need the Traxxas shock ends, not the entire shaft. The ends will give you 3mm more droop.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:40 PM
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There's the man with the plan! So I literally take the shock end caps off of a traxxas and use them?
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