1LikesTeamC TS4-TS4Pro SC thread
12-24-2012, 06:05 AM
#616
If the gearboxes were a "wet" design and sealed the 20wt would probably work but since they are not the 20wt oil immediately flings off as soon as you hit the gas one time! oil by desing is not made to "stick" to anything but grease will stay on the gears which is what you want.
The suggested shims is just a suggestion, you have tolerances with about 10 different parts that can all make a difference. doesnt matter how tight it fits in the gearbox its the mesh that you need to worry about, you need to have barely any movement at all between them. on my truck i have three shims in the rear and only one in the front. Symetricon needed four in the front and rear. Its one of those build things as you just really never know!
Also dont add any extra shims on the pinions, take those off and just adjust via the ring gear.
The suggested shims is just a suggestion, you have tolerances with about 10 different parts that can all make a difference. doesnt matter how tight it fits in the gearbox its the mesh that you need to worry about, you need to have barely any movement at all between them. on my truck i have three shims in the rear and only one in the front. Symetricon needed four in the front and rear. Its one of those build things as you just really never know!
Also dont add any extra shims on the pinions, take those off and just adjust via the ring gear.
Last edited by MantisWorx; 12-24-2012 at 06:27 AM.
12-24-2012, 02:00 PM
#617
I have done this per Marcus' suggestion. Been running for awhile now with no issues with my gears. I chewed up at least 3 of these before this fix. Runs great. I did 3 in front and 2 in the rear
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
The suggested shims is just a suggestion, you have tolerances with about 10 different parts that can all make a difference. doesnt matter how tight it fits in the gearbox its the mesh that you need to worry about, you need to have barely any movement at all between them. on my truck i have three shims in the rear and only one in the front. Symetricon needed four in the front and rear. Its one of those build things as you just really never know!
Also dont add any extra shims on the pinions, take those off and just adjust via the ring gear.
Also dont add any extra shims on the pinions, take those off and just adjust via the ring gear.
12-24-2012, 02:08 PM
#618
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Also dont add any extra shims on the pinions, take those off and just adjust via the ring gear.
I've tried, the gears would almost lock up at that level.
Got an reply from Roy, on holiday period,
"Unlike your description of the r/p gear mesh, mine has a tick of play in both front and rear. I built/shimmed them snug when new, but still left just a small tick of play. I also greased them, as yours look a little dry. When they get warm or hot, the metal has to have room to expand some."
So maybe I should take one spacer out from the CVD/bevel gear,
and keep the two spacers in the diff ring gear?
So that it will have a slide bit of play?
12-24-2012, 04:43 PM
#619
Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
Do you mean take out the spacer from orange arrow, and put it in the red arrow place?
I've tried, the gears would almost lock up at that level.
Got an reply from Roy, on holiday period,
"Unlike your description of the r/p gear mesh, mine has a tick of play in both front and rear. I built/shimmed them snug when new, but still left just a small tick of play. I also greased them, as yours look a little dry. When they get warm or hot, the metal has to have room to expand some."
So maybe I should take one spacer out from the CVD/bevel gear,
and keep the two spacers in the diff ring gear?
So that it will have a slide bit of play?
I've tried, the gears would almost lock up at that level.
Got an reply from Roy, on holiday period,
"Unlike your description of the r/p gear mesh, mine has a tick of play in both front and rear. I built/shimmed them snug when new, but still left just a small tick of play. I also greased them, as yours look a little dry. When they get warm or hot, the metal has to have room to expand some."
So maybe I should take one spacer out from the CVD/bevel gear,
and keep the two spacers in the diff ring gear?
So that it will have a slide bit of play?
Thats exactly what i was saying. build the bevel gear as described in the manual and adjust the mesh via the dif shims on the gear side.
12-26-2012, 09:22 PM
#620
so has any pone got avid of the team edtion running
12-27-2012, 05:59 AM
#621
here ya go! both trucks have RCshox 2 stage pistons, full ceramic bearings and RC plates.
second vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=fN86mgkznts#!
second vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=fN86mgkznts#!
12-27-2012, 03:17 PM
#623
yeah looks really good is that full hop up
12-27-2012, 03:42 PM
#624
Originally Posted by 8drenlnjunkE
looked good man what diff fluids are you running?
Originally Posted by RavensNightFury
yeah looks really good is that full hop up
12-27-2012, 04:01 PM
#625
yeah team edtion
right do you know were they are for cheap with cheap shipping cant geta hold of one in oz
right do you know were they are for cheap with cheap shipping cant geta hold of one in oz
12-27-2012, 04:48 PM
#627
try him his only go the normale version
12-27-2012, 04:53 PM
#628
I run the Pro Roller version and it is awesome. I put the center diff brace on it and the ts415 chassis ( not needed but is nice) and thats all i have had to change. I am not sure what all the team edition comes with over the Pro Roller but i still got all the aluminum goodies and big bores.
12-27-2012, 04:59 PM
#630
yeah what is the diffrent in the pro roller and team edtion
