1LikesTeamC TS4-TS4Pro SC thread
10-22-2012, 01:19 PM
#421
Originally Posted by heinzi
If you drive the truck with the diffoel in instructions?
30 000 Front ?
10 000 Rear ?
30 000 Center ?
Heinz
30 000 Front ?
10 000 Rear ?
30 000 Center ?
Heinz
10-22-2012, 01:21 PM
#422
Originally Posted by symmetricon
I wouldnt try 30/10/30. i would never go thicker in the rear than in the center diff. I am currently running 30/50/10 and really like the way it drive. On power it is on rails.
10-22-2012, 01:38 PM
#424
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
The Durango is the most un reliable truck out there!! Thats what i drove before The TS4! There is absolutely no comparison to that truck except the way it drives! This truck is very reliable, Make sure you shim the ring and pinion tighter than what the manual says ( I am at three shims ). There is talk about the ballcups but i still have yet to pop one so i guess that just depends on how you drive or your track although our tracks are really rough. The bearings IMO need to all be replaced immediately, order a set from AVID or ceramics from me. Other than those few things the truck is solid.
capture rod end, it's not about the track surface, it's the track side wall that hurts, we have a big outdoor track that's also designed for 1/8 buggies, many faster sweepers. heavy side impact will pop it out quite easily.
Another thing is that, after so many times of taking shocks on and off, the screw holes on the a-arm is getting really loose. I ended up changing to 5-40 screws.
Team C seems to make plastic parts with relatively high precision, but a bit over done on "fit smoothness".
they make 3.25mm diameter holes for 3mm pins.
while many other manufacture just make it 2.95mm diameter, and as user to make them tightly fit themselves.
10-24-2012, 09:11 PM
#428
13 here too!
Testing new shock towers tomorrow! dropped the holes 5mm so now you have full droop in the front even when using the outside holes which is typically better. Also dropped 5mm in the rear but had to add 2.5mm of limiters inside the shock for droop but now the driveshafts will not hit the drive cups.Another plus is that I can use normal 22b springs, not the 22T truck, no need for the extra long springs in the rear.
Testing new shock towers tomorrow! dropped the holes 5mm so now you have full droop in the front even when using the outside holes which is typically better. Also dropped 5mm in the rear but had to add 2.5mm of limiters inside the shock for droop but now the driveshafts will not hit the drive cups.Another plus is that I can use normal 22b springs, not the 22T truck, no need for the extra long springs in the rear.
10-24-2012, 09:17 PM
#429
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
13 here too!
Testing new shock towers tomorrow! dropped the holes 5mm so now you have full droop in the front even when using the outside holes which is typically better. Also dropped 5mm in the rear but had to add 2.5mm of limiters inside the shock for droop but now the driveshafts will not hit the drive cups.Another plus is that I can use normal 22b springs, not the 22T truck, no need for the extra long springs in the rear.
Testing new shock towers tomorrow! dropped the holes 5mm so now you have full droop in the front even when using the outside holes which is typically better. Also dropped 5mm in the rear but had to add 2.5mm of limiters inside the shock for droop but now the driveshafts will not hit the drive cups.Another plus is that I can use normal 22b springs, not the 22T truck, no need for the extra long springs in the rear.
10-25-2012, 07:59 PM
#430
Depends on the track. I run on a medium to high bite indoor track, and have to run the 10 degree to get enough steering. The rear is very planted and has major on power push. Still could use more steering. 13 degree is no good indoor.
If you are running on a dusty blown-out cornfield of a track, than it probably makes no difference.
If you are running on a dusty blown-out cornfield of a track, than it probably makes no difference.
10-25-2012, 08:21 PM
#432
Tech Addict
iTrader: (73)
Originally Posted by doc danger
Has anyone else noticed that nitrohouse.com has this truck and the 2wd in the electric short course section? Looks like OFNA may have purchased TeamC or something else is fishy. Check it out.
R2 confirms this here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...te-thread.html
10-25-2012, 08:30 PM
#433
Thanks for the info. Looks like OFNA has Chad Bradley doing some R and D on this fast machine. Hopefully they get some kinks worked out. I really like this truck, but the diff seal design is poor and the ballcups gotta go. Hard to tell other racers to get one, if they need to do mods just to get going. Losi springs work great with stock pistons and the SC10 4x4 captured ends solve the major issues.
Search for thread in electric off road under - "what 4x4 SCT is this?"
Search for thread in electric off road under - "what 4x4 SCT is this?"
10-26-2012, 03:29 PM
#434
Originally Posted by doc danger
Depends on the track. I run on a medium to high bite indoor track, and have to run the 10 degree to get enough steering. The rear is very planted and has major on power push. Still could use more steering. 13 degree is no good indoor.
If you are running on a dusty blown-out cornfield of a track, than it probably makes no difference.
If you are running on a dusty blown-out cornfield of a track, than it probably makes no difference.
Originally Posted by doc danger
Thanks for the info. Looks like OFNA has Chad Bradley doing some R and D on this fast machine. Hopefully they get some kinks worked out. I really like this truck, but the diff seal design is poor and the ballcups gotta go. Hard to tell other racers to get one, if they need to do mods just to get going. Losi springs work great with stock pistons and the SC10 4x4 captured ends solve the major issues.
Search for thread in electric off road under - "what 4x4 SCT is this?"
Search for thread in electric off road under - "what 4x4 SCT is this?"
). Only thing wrong with the springs is that we dont know what spring rate they are. Tested new geometry shock towers yesterday!
Rear with 2.5mm internal limiting and inside holes on arm, Std TLR22 rear springs (not the 22T springs)
Front with no limiters and std 22B springs outside arm holes
The added droop is wonderful on this truck, it allows you to run the ride height lower and really absorbs the rough sections much better with out bottoming. since you can run the outside holes on the arms the front is more stable. Also the driveshafts do not hit the cups and you dont have to add external limiters.
