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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 06-18-2014, 09:22 AM
  #10036  
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Originally Posted by OakGroveRaceway View Post
I am using a 1258 as well ,I think the aluminum horn may be the answer the stock horn has that big angle on it.Does the aluminum one have such a sharp angle? any clearance issues with your setup?

Thanks
No clearance issues at all. The steering link is not at a perfectly 90 degree angle to the bellcrank, however, it doesn't seem to affect the steering at all. I'm using the 22 2.0 ballcups (eyelets?).

I think the aluminum horn and mounting the ball stud on the front allows more clearance than the plastic horn and the ball stud on the back.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:56 AM
  #10037  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The 22SCT was a solid performer right out of the box. Sure it may be a little hefty for the stock class but for mod it was spot on. Mid motor and rear motor with all the parts included is a small price to pay a little more $$ for.

Sure TODAY we're making slight mods to make the truck more polished and easier to drive faster...remember faster.

$20 kyosho rack mod, some ST truck arms and bones...and you have a solid truck that can hang with the rest of them with ease.

Is it too much? I can't say that when I saw the price on the new K truck....yikes.
Randy, can you explain the $20 Kyosho rack mod? I have not seen that mod posted. Thanks!
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:49 AM
  #10038  
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Originally Posted by joncmack View Post
No clearance issues at all. The steering link is not at a perfectly 90 degree angle to the bellcrank, however, it doesn't seem to affect the steering at all. I'm using the 22 2.0 ballcups (eyelets?).

I think the aluminum horn and mounting the ball stud on the front allows more clearance than the plastic horn and the ball stud on the back.
Thanks I will give It a shot,I have ordered a spectrum servo .but if I can use the savox I would prefer it.
Are you talking about the TLR upgrade arm?
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:19 PM
  #10039  
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yes...TLR one



as opposed to



http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...vox-ACE-TLR-22

You could possibly just try mounting the ballstud to the front of the plastic one and see if that helps. I can take a picture when I get home of my setup if needed (though it should be pretty easy to imagine).
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:34 PM
  #10040  
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Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
Randy, can you explain the $20 Kyosho rack mod? I have not seen that mod posted. Thanks!
I used this as a guideline : http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...allBellcranks/

I used a 4/40 screw and cut the head off so it was long enough to just engage the shouldered spacers. This makes it much stronger and since I've done this I've yet to break a rack part.

This change alone made the car SO much different to drive, in a good way. It does require some dremeling of parts so be patient, and work slow.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:40 PM
  #10041  
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Originally Posted by OakGroveRaceway View Post
I am in the process of building my 22 sct and I have installed the exotek rack but even with the optional mounts they say to use the savox servos do not want to fit any way I mount them.The clearance just is not there and I cant grind that much off.the ball link hits the servo one way and hits the upper hood the other? anyone else have this issue?I think I am just going to buy another servo and be done with it.
Are you using the version 1 or version 2 Exotek rack? Also if you could post a pic of what you have going on one of these guys might see something to fix your issue.
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:47 PM
  #10042  
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Default Ball Diff Follow-up Question

So a few days ago I mentioned rebuilding my ball differential. I am happy to say that I raced 2 heats and a main and nothing fell apart or appears broken. I consider that a successful evening

I am now breaking down my truck and have the rear tires off. I turned the rear hex and was curious what should it feel like? I know that is a difficult question but should it feel very smooth and fluid or should it feel like there is some resistance?

In my opinion it feels like metal on metal but there are no loud grinding noises or sounds that I would consider alarming. If I had to describe the sound I would say maybe scratchy but I raced indoors last night so it isn't sand or anything like that. My concerns are that I might have the ball diff too tight or not enough differential grease though I mimicked the youtube video as close as possible.

Thanks,
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:24 PM
  #10043  
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Originally Posted by A2Racing View Post
So a few days ago I mentioned rebuilding my ball differential. I am happy to say that I raced 2 heats and a main and nothing fell apart or appears broken. I consider that a successful evening

I am now breaking down my truck and have the rear tires off. I turned the rear hex and was curious what should it feel like? I know that is a difficult question but should it feel very smooth and fluid or should it feel like there is some resistance?

In my opinion it feels like metal on metal but there are no loud grinding noises or sounds that I would consider alarming. If I had to describe the sound I would say maybe scratchy but I raced indoors last night so it isn't sand or anything like that. My concerns are that I might have the ball diff too tight or not enough differential grease though I mimicked the youtube video as close as possible.

Thanks,
You do have metal to metal contact. You should not pack the main diff with clear grease so you are basically metal to metal all the time although the silicone grease will help some.

Sounds like your diff is fine. The tension is somewhat a tuning aid. Obviously you can't set it so loose it slips (which quickly damamges all the parts) but above that tension you can set it tighter or looser to meet your handling needs. Sounds like you had a successful build and did a fine job breaking it in and setting the diff. When the parts go bad they will get a gritty notchy feel to them.
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:26 PM
  #10044  
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A smooth diff will not necessarily feel like metal on metal. It can have a metalic feel but to me it's often like spinning a gear diff with disc brake drag.

Either way it should NOT feel crunchy or gritty. IF so it's time to rebuild it. I highly recommend Bfast parts. I personally run carbide diff balls, and ceramic thrust parts.

I've also heard good things about the TLR tungsten and Casper Racing thrust washer.
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:18 AM
  #10045  
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Anybody running mid motor on indoor clay? Thinking about trying it in stock class because really don't a traction problem with 17.5 motor.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:10 AM
  #10046  
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Originally Posted by carguy83 View Post
Anybody running mid motor on indoor clay? Thinking about trying it in stock class because really don't a traction problem with 17.5 motor.
me, all i can say is , The frank root setup is good in mm as well!
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:14 PM
  #10047  
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Have the Tungsten balls always come in the diff rebuild kit TLR2962?
I bought this from a place that may have had it for a while and want to make sure it is the same as I have been running.

I assume I can also use the TLR tungsten balls with the MIP super diff or puck out drive kit as long as I use the MIP diff rings?
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Old 06-20-2014, 04:59 PM
  #10048  
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Originally Posted by E-Mann View Post
Have the Tungsten balls always come in the diff rebuild kit TLR2962?
I bought this from a place that may have had it for a while and want to make sure it is the same as I have been running.

I assume I can also use the TLR tungsten balls with the MIP super diff or puck out drive kit as long as I use the MIP diff rings?
They have for a very long time. I am not sure they have always but probably the last 2 years or so.
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:30 PM
  #10049  
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Originally Posted by E-Mann View Post
Have the Tungsten balls always come in the diff rebuild kit TLR2962?
I bought this from a place that may have had it for a while and want to make sure it is the same as I have been running.

I assume I can also use the TLR tungsten balls with the MIP super diff or puck out drive kit as long as I use the MIP diff rings?
TLR2962 has steel diff balls. TLR232001 has the carbide diff balls.
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:40 PM
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Thanks Randy and Casper,

It doesn't feel crunchy or gritty just metal friction like what you both explained which sounds like it is ok. I am slowly building my back-up SCTE 2.0 kit for this summer's point series and after Wednesday's club race I will tear down the 22 SCT again.

I am running Casper's thrust bearing, I only have about 25 minutes of track time on the rebuild with the thrust bearing but so far everything appears to be working well. I will check out Bfast parts as well, thanks for the recommendation.

Kevin


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
A smooth diff will not necessarily feel like metal on metal. It can have a metalic feel but to me it's often like spinning a gear diff with disc brake drag.

Either way it should NOT feel crunchy or gritty. IF so it's time to rebuild it. I highly recommend Bfast parts. I personally run carbide diff balls, and ceramic thrust parts.

I've also heard good things about the TLR tungsten and Casper Racing thrust washer.
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