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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 06-10-2014, 07:42 PM
  #10021  
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So I ran at my local indoor clay track and I just wanted to relay a setup that was super dialed for me. I followed everything on the frank 2014 standard setup(full 2.0 upgrades front, shocks, and rear with alum 22t driveshafts.) but since I'm too poor for shorty packs, I ran Casper dunford setup- springs, oil wieght and pistons, ride height and swaybars front and rear. It was spinning out a bit corner exit so I dialed in 2 deg of rear camber and bam! Thing was on rails in every way. Also 5 turns out on all 4 shocks. I've never felt so confident in a setup, so I felt bad keeping it to myself. Give it a go!
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:03 PM
  #10022  
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wow, been a while since i've posted in this forum
how long until the bellcranks are available?

long story short, im going to college in the coming months, and I am looking to get rid of my 22SCT, because i will be needing a new laptop.
its in great condition. Roller, no electronics.
has full 2.0 hubs/rack/spindle/shock parts. aluminum 25* AND 30* pivots included. aluminum hexes all corners. extra arms, including a new set of 22T rear arms. I think i have a few Toe blocks for it too. New MIP pro-diff with one race on it. many parts/extras.
PM me, i can email pictures.
make me an offer.
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:46 PM
  #10023  
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I have a newbie question. I have searched the internet and looked at youtube videos but can't find an answer.

I recently attempted to rebuild by Ball Diff, it appears to be too loose since I am getting zero punch when trying to accelerate and there is a funny noise when applying the throttle. It is the same noise and issues that I was experiencing before I rebuilt the ball diff (there was a washer exploded on the thrust bearings).

Anyways my question is about the turnbuckles, is there an easier way of removing them (i.e. popping them off) instead of unscrewing them from the rear hubs? I am just trying to find quicker ways to remove the transmission and gain access to the ball diff. Right now I am pretty much taking the entire back end apart.

Thanks,
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:25 PM
  #10024  
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Hope there is news coming soon!
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:34 PM
  #10025  
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Been a while since I've checked this thread out. 22SCT is a great truck to have, as short course has brought a lot of new people into r/c racing for sure, and is fun to drive.

Just in case anyone is interested, I have one new in box TLR 22-SCT kit, w/ factory shrink wrap intact, if anyone wants to pick one up to try the class out! PM me for details & info.
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:57 AM
  #10026  
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Originally Posted by A2Racing View Post
I have a newbie question. I have searched the internet and looked at youtube videos but can't find an answer.

I recently attempted to rebuild by Ball Diff, it appears to be too loose since I am getting zero punch when trying to accelerate and there is a funny noise when applying the throttle. It is the same noise and issues that I was experiencing before I rebuilt the ball diff (there was a washer exploded on the thrust bearings).

Anyways my question is about the turnbuckles, is there an easier way of removing them (i.e. popping them off) instead of unscrewing them from the rear hubs? I am just trying to find quicker ways to remove the transmission and gain access to the ball diff. Right now I am pretty much taking the entire back end apart.

Thanks,


You only need to remove 7 screws(9 if you remove the 2 screws from the rear tower that go to the body mounts)) to get the tranny out in Rear motor form....you do not need to remove the turnbuckles to get the tranny out. When I do remove the turnbuckles I use a pair of pliers and pop them off by turning them one way or the other till they pop off. But keep in mind every time you pop them off you make them a wee bit looser and more likely to pop off on their own.
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Old 06-13-2014, 03:28 PM
  #10027  
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Wigman thanks so much you just saved me a ton of time. I was able to tighten my ball diff in 2 minutes compared to 15-30 minutes and everything appears to be running smoothly.

I also installed an exotek steering rack this afternoon. I had to dremel a lot of plastic steering components and shave them down, I am kind of worried that they are now weaker and will be more prone to breaking. I guess I will find out next time I take it to the track.

Thanks again,

Originally Posted by WIGMAN View Post
You only need to remove 7 screws(9 if you remove the 2 screws from the rear tower that go to the body mounts)) to get the tranny out in Rear motor form....you do not need to remove the turnbuckles to get the tranny out. When I do remove the turnbuckles I use a pair of pliers and pop them off by turning them one way or the other till they pop off. But keep in mind every time you pop them off you make them a wee bit looser and more likely to pop off on their own.
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:30 PM
  #10028  
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Originally Posted by A2Racing View Post
Wigman thanks so much you just saved me a ton of time. I was able to tighten my ball diff in 2 minutes compared to 15-30 minutes and everything appears to be running smoothly.

I also installed an exotek steering rack this afternoon. I had to dremel a lot of plastic steering components and shave them down, I am kind of worried that they are now weaker and will be more prone to breaking. I guess I will find out next time I take it to the track.

Thanks again,
I run the version 1 exotek rack...unless you got carried away with the dremel you should be fine, I have been running m ine for over a year with no issues.
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Old 06-16-2014, 03:31 PM
  #10029  
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So my son is now racing my 22sct and he keeps having the one steering ball cup pop off. I replaced the ends with the newer ball cup end but it continues to pop off.
Any thoughts as to why this keeps happening?

I thought about switching to captured ends but I'm hearing that causes binding, can anyone confirm?
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:02 PM
  #10030  
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Originally Posted by sduffy77 View Post
So my son is now racing my 22sct and he keeps having the one steering ball cup pop off. I replaced the ends with the newer ball cup end but it continues to pop off.
Any thoughts as to why this keeps happening?

I thought about switching to captured ends but I'm hearing that causes binding, can anyone confirm?
The Traxxas tra3643 work great just install them as descibed on page 1 and they work awesome. I used them at Bumps and Pit Stop no binding issues and no popping off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291089657727...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:33 PM
  #10031  
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Default 22sct w/exotek rack ?

I am in the process of building my 22 sct and I have installed the exotek rack but even with the optional mounts they say to use the savox servos do not want to fit any way I mount them.The clearance just is not there and I cant grind that much off.the ball link hits the servo one way and hits the upper hood the other? anyone else have this issue?I think I am just going to buy another servo and be done with it.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:55 AM
  #10032  
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Originally Posted by OakGroveRaceway View Post
I am in the process of building my 22 sct and I have installed the exotek rack but even with the optional mounts they say to use the savox servos do not want to fit any way I mount them.The clearance just is not there and I cant grind that much off.the ball link hits the servo one way and hits the upper hood the other? anyone else have this issue?I think I am just going to buy another servo and be done with it.
Which Savox Servo? I got my 1258 to work using the aluminum horn and the ball stud mounted facing forward.
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:17 AM
  #10033  
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Default 22SCT still killing it

Love this truck even more in mid-motor! Platform is super stable and hooked up even on loose surface here in Vegas. Keep the competition sweating, the podium girls panting and the untrained eyes not believing its just a 2WD, while it attacks the track with a vengance.





-Rocco
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:31 PM
  #10034  
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Originally Posted by Butch Mann View Post
The Traxxas tra3643 work great just install them as descibed on page 1 and they work awesome. I used them at Bumps and Pit Stop no binding issues and no popping off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291089657727...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Ok great, I have a few sets of them laying around that I can try.
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:40 AM
  #10035  
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Default servo mounting

Originally Posted by joncmack View Post
Which Savox Servo? I got my 1258 to work using the aluminum horn and the ball stud mounted facing forward.
I am using a 1258 as well ,I think the aluminum horn may be the answer the stock horn has that big angle on it.Does the aluminum one have such a sharp angle? any clearance issues with your setup?

Thanks
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