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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 03-31-2014, 10:17 AM
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I just dropped a Killshot in for stock racing this weekend. Currently geared 25/76, feels a little under powered so I cranked it up to 40deg on the end bell. Could still use some more, but I need to temp it on the track. I may end up going up teeth in increments until I hit 28/76.
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:34 PM
  #9797  
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what are some tricks to gaining more rear traction without buying new parts, As in Hub spacing (front or back)? Lengthing camber link's and location on hub and camber block?

I know to adjust the ball diff and run it tight to get more of a posi feel. I feel as mines set up just right along with the slipper but The back end was sliding all around. Wondering if any of the above I can try to gain less drifting on power in the corner's.

I run inside-inside for shock location, camber link is 1-e, 2 degree anti squat, Buggy yellow springs and ride height at 28-29mm, Have one foam block behind the battery. On a med-bite clay track with Blue Barcodes.
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas View Post
what are some tricks to gaining more rear traction without buying new parts, As in Hub spacing (front or back)? Lengthing camber link's and location on hub and camber block?

I know to adjust the ball diff and run it tight to get more of a posi feel. I feel as mines set up just right along with the slipper but The back end was sliding all around. Wondering if any of the above I can try to gain less drifting on power in the corner's.

I run inside-inside for shock location, camber link is 1-e, 2 degree anti squat, Buggy yellow springs and ride height at 28-29mm, Have one foam block behind the battery. On a med-bite clay track with Blue Barcodes.
hubs forward gave me the most rear bite. Also raise the transmission 1mm.
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan View Post
I just dropped a Killshot in for stock racing this weekend. Currently geared 25/76, feels a little under powered so I cranked it up to 40deg on the end bell. Could still use some more, but I need to temp it on the track. I may end up going up teeth in increments until I hit 28/76.
Weird I must be doing something very wrong I had my truck with a 28/78 gearing that exact setup so I'm assuming we are runng on similar tracks and my motor was burning up. (Almost 180 according to my harbor freight temp gun.) I temped as best I could on the side of the can. So I'm not sure what up. Maybe I got a dud motor but I have the same motor also
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by darkscope001 View Post
Thanks both of you. But fantom guy I have to ask is it 100 dollars better?

Also I was thinking about this. Since I have two almost new lipo packs if I did want to run shorties could I buy a few and switch half way through the race day? Or would I be better off to try and sell my packs? Thanks
For me it was 200 dollars better that's what I spent to upgrade mine. It all depends on what you want. I run on a med/small indoor clay track and in a 5 min run I could not get over 16 lap run or below a 18.124 fast lap. With the new set up I dropped my fast lap to a 17.338 and put 17 laps down. So to me it was worth it.
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by joncmack View Post
I am about to modify the Casper/Dunford setup with the 2.0 steering rack, caster blocks, and spindles (not doing the 22T rear parts from Frank's setup). From what I believe I understand of the new front end parts on the 22 buggy, they actually made the front end very slightly narrower, so I'm going to keep using the +1.5 buggy hex on the front of the SCT.

Has anyone done the front end upgrade and kept the Casper/Dunford setup? If so, what front camber positions are you using? Also deciding about keeping the tranny raised 1mm or not. I run on an outdoor, medium to low bite rough track.
I would lower the tranny again if you put the 2.0 front end parts on the truck.I am curious how the setup works with the 2.0 front end as well. I have not run my SCT in a while and mine is setup in MM configuration right now.
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:35 AM
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Wouldn't the 1mm tranny shims just keep the rear end more planted in addition to having the 2.0 front end?
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan View Post
Wouldn't the 1mm tranny shims just keep the rear end more planted in addition to having the 2.0 front end?
Yeah but you should not need to do it as the front end fixed some geometry issues that should make it not necessary to raise the tranny anymore. I would definately try it without the spacers.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan View Post
Wouldn't the 1mm tranny shims just keep the rear end more planted in addition to having the 2.0 front end?
That's what I was thinking too. I'm going to do my 2.0 front end conversion this weekend and hope to get to the track sometime next week.
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Yeah but you should not need to do it as the front end fixed some geometry issues that should make it not necessary to raise the tranny anymore. I would definately try it without the spacers.
Would it be a bad thing to still keep the tranny shims in? What kind of characteristics of the truck should I look out for?
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413 View Post
Would it be a bad thing to still keep the tranny shims in? What kind of characteristics of the truck should I look out for?
Not totally sure to be honest. I have not raised the tranny since putting on the 2.0 parts on any of my cars.

The reason for raising the tranny was to increase bind in the bones to counteract a jacking effect the front end had. So we were putting a bandaid on a a steering issue. With the geometry changes you should not need to do this anymore so you may not want the bind in the rear end. Give it a try both ways and see how you like it. Again I have not raised a tranny with 2.0 front parts. Did not ever need addtional rear traction.
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Old 04-01-2014, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I would lower the tranny again if you put the 2.0 front end parts on the truck.I am curious how the setup works with the 2.0 front end as well. I have not run my SCT in a while and mine is setup in MM configuration right now.
I recently ran my truck with the 2.0 front end parts, I found that I could drive deeper into the corner and it was less tail happy on exit, I do however have the 1mm shims under the transmission and a tight ball diff, just my opinion was the truck was easier to drive fast, as before it was slow into the corner and pickup the throttle mid to exit with ease, this past race weekend, it was fly into the corner and hammer out
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:07 PM
  #9808  
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So from what I've read the 2.0 front end parts make the truck faster and have more grip in the turns?

I guess It may be time to upgrade to the 2.0 parts. Can someone make a list and post it to the first page on all the 2.0 front end parts along with the a link on the setup for the front end.

I really want to get the truck to handle better in the turns and have more rear traction.
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas View Post
So from what I've read the 2.0 front end parts make the truck faster and have more grip in the turns?

I guess It may be time to upgrade to the 2.0 parts. Can someone make a list and post it to the first page on all the 2.0 front end parts along with the a link on the setup for the front end.

I really want to get the truck to handle better in the turns and have more rear traction.
I think its already posted their, you will need the castor blocks and spindles, basically a plug and play for the new parts install, I did run the 5 degree blocks with the stock sct front pivot
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Troubles Dad View Post
I think its already posted their, you will need the castor blocks and spindles, basically a plug and play for the new parts install, I did run the 5 degree blocks with the stock sct front pivot
Steering slider as well right? and you need the lower profile ball studs if I remember correctly.
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