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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 03-19-2014, 06:42 PM
  #9691  
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Originally Posted by sduffy77 View Post
So I build my first ball diff last night (the one that came in the kit) which took longer than it probably should have.

My question is, is the MIP super diff any better than the kit supplied?
Does the Team Associated diff screw/nut make much difference?

If you have to build the ultimate diff, what would you use?
I run the MIP screw with the Losi aluminum nut, and with the Losi aluminum nut I can change the captured nylok nut every time I rebuild. B-Fast rings and balls and an Avid pre built thrust bearing. Now that's what I consider the ultimate diff lol.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:10 PM
  #9692  
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My problem is with the Avid Triad Slipper assembly. I just installed one but haven't ran it yet. I bought the Avid top shaft and I don't think something is right and I'm 100% sure it's together right. The wide part of the top shaft that engages the plates stops and is completely flush with the last plate. It does not stick out past the plate at all to engage the spring and center it. The metal cap that sits behind the nut centers the front of the spring but it's not enough. When I tighten down the spring it's not centered on the plate which is not good nor can it be right. It needs to be centered for balance and to keep the spring from leaning over. The reason I bought the top shaft is because the Losi factory one did not fit right and hold the rear of the spring? I contacted Avid but no reply, can anyone running this help?
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:15 PM
  #9693  
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I seen a pic Randy pike posted in the Triad thread but it looks like he is running the Losi top shaft as the threads on the shaft in the pic are black which the losi's are and the avid aren't. He is also running a washer against the last plate before the spring which would be needed on the Losi shaft and not the avid one.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:32 PM
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The out drives on my MIP diff wore 3x as fast as the TLR diff. I don't know if mine was not hardened properly or if they are all like that. As someone else said the MIP rebuild kits are cheap. The AE diff bolt is definitely worth having in the pit box in case the stock one snaps. I'm a fan of the new style caged thrust bearings, either from casper or avid. Diff ball material seems to be a personal preference for most people. I usually go with steel cause its cheap and it does the job. Proper break in is key!
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:34 PM
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Stock losi out drives with BFast thrust bearing, rings, and balls.....follow the TLR assembly and breakin video....smooth and long lasting...
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:21 AM
  #9696  
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Originally Posted by Chr1s View Post
The out drives on my MIP diff wore 3x as fast as the TLR diff. I don't know if mine was not hardened properly or if they are all like that. As someone else said the MIP rebuild kits are cheap. The AE diff bolt is definitely worth having in the pit box in case the stock one snaps. I'm a fan of the new style caged thrust bearings, either from casper or avid. Diff ball material seems to be a personal preference for most people. I usually go with steel cause its cheap and it does the job. Proper break in is key!
Thanks again for all the help Chris. I got the diff all setup and broke in last night. I did end up having to tighten it a 1/4 turn and loosen the slipper a bit but after that it works great.

Now to deal with the traction issues from going from 17.5 to 10.5 :-D
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:58 AM
  #9697  
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So finally I also ordered a 22SCT
I've read a lot in the first post/faq section regarding the 22SCT, one thing that I did not see was regarding the body holes.

Does the body fit both SCTE 2.0 and 22SCT regarding the holes for the body posts or do I need to have 2 different bodies?

Thanks
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mclogo View Post
So finally I also ordered a 22SCT
I've read a lot in the first post/faq section regarding the 22SCT, one thing that I did not see was regarding the body holes.

Does the body fit both SCTE 2.0 and 22SCT regarding the holes for the body posts or do I need to have 2 different bodies?

Thanks
the body posts don't line up unfortunately.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:19 AM
  #9699  
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Originally Posted by Chr1s View Post
The out drives on my MIP diff wore 3x as fast as the TLR diff. I don't know if mine was not hardened properly or if they are all like that. As someone else said the MIP rebuild kits are cheap. The AE diff bolt is definitely worth having in the pit box in case the stock one snaps. I'm a fan of the new style caged thrust bearings, either from casper or avid. Diff ball material seems to be a personal preference for most people. I usually go with steel cause its cheap and it does the job. Proper break in is key!
Do you know the part # for the avid thrust bearing?
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT View Post
Do you know the part # for the avid thrust bearing?
Casper-RC.com

The ceramic balls with the grooved washers typically last multiple diff rebuilds so even with the slight extra cost of going to the ceramic bearing the value is surely there.

Also the on-line support is better!
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:57 AM
  #9701  
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Originally Posted by Chr1s View Post
the body posts don't line up unfortunately.
Thanks Chr1s
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:08 AM
  #9702  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Casper-RC.com

The ceramic balls with the grooved washers typically last multiple diff rebuilds so even with the slight extra cost of going to the ceramic bearing the value is surely there.

Also the on-line support is better!
Thanks for the follow-up Casper!!!
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:35 AM
  #9703  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Casper-RC.com

The ceramic balls with the grooved washers typically last multiple diff rebuilds so even with the slight extra cost of going to the ceramic bearing the value is surely there.

Also the on-line support is better!
I just ordered one!

also ordered the TLR alum nut holder and nut.

Is one screw better than another?
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sduffy77 View Post
I just ordered one!

also ordered the TLR alum nut holder and nut.

Is one screw better than another?
The Gen 2 nuts have a metal insert in them and work GREAT. No need for the alum holder but it works well also and if you can find repalcement 2mm nuts those alum holders are pretty cool.
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:48 PM
  #9705  
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Originally Posted by sduffy77 View Post
I just ordered one!

also ordered the TLR alum nut holder and nut.

Is one screw better than another?
Which screws we talking about AE vs TLR?

The AE one is slightly bigger diam and would be stronger but you have to use the AE nut as the thread is different.

Most of the time the TLR works just fine although I will admit I have broken a few over the years of running these things. Almost always on very high bite tracks.
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