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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 02-12-2014, 06:41 PM
  #9316  
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Just wondering if anyone has a setup for a loose bumpy track....I know the kit setup works best on these conditions, but hoping maybe someone has found something more....looking to find more rear grip on corner exit.... Always feel like I'm having to feather it to keep from kicking out. I have tried casper/dunford setup which worked amazing at the Midwest champs, but our local tracks are a bit different. If someone has posted prior to this regarding the same issue I apologize. I'm fairly new to the game, and some of the more seasoned veterans of the sport tells me that the lack of rear side bite is due to the stiff platform. I'm hoping someone has an answer... Thanks to anyone that can help.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:00 PM
  #9317  
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Hey is anyone running an Avid Triad slipper assembly on your SCT with a mod motor? I installed one and ran it today with a 6.5 Orion and I burned it up, the slipper pads twice? It was like it couldn't handle it. First setting was too loose couldn't make the small singles cuz it was slipping too much. Tightened it up and it worked great, for one pack and the pads were fried. The track is only med traction and I wasn't spinning out at all and it still got too hot and ruined it, I don't understand. And it's for the Associated or Losi so the spring that comes with it is too big for the Losis small idler gear. Avid makes a replacement idler for the Losi which is bigger so I can only assume they want u to buy that also.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:03 PM
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I ran two different combos of the white and red pads to no success.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:06 PM
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Guess I'm gonna throw on the Losi 2.0 second version slipper assembly with the bigger pads.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chiger View Post
Just wondering if anyone has a setup for a loose bumpy track....I know the kit setup works best on these conditions, but hoping maybe someone has found something more....looking to find more rear grip on corner exit.... Always feel like I'm having to feather it to keep from kicking out. I have tried casper/dunford setup which worked amazing at the Midwest champs, but our local tracks are a bit different. If someone has posted prior to this regarding the same issue I apologize. I'm fairly new to the game, and some of the more seasoned veterans of the sport tells me that the lack of rear side bite is due to the stiff platform. I'm hoping someone has an answer... Thanks to anyone that can help.
-2.5 degrees of camber on the rear and 0 degrees up front, if that's not enough lengthen the rear turnbuckle length by using the 1-c holes, slight toe out up front(optional)
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:16 AM
  #9321  
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Had a question on how to get no squat in the rear for mid motor setup? Do I use the rear motor insert or shim up the #1 mid-motor insert.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:30 AM
  #9322  
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Originally Posted by Jammin_Xtream49 View Post
Had a question on how to get no squat in the rear for mid motor setup? Do I use the rear motor insert or shim up the #1 mid-motor insert.
The car was not designed for 0 antisquat. I know guys that have tried either mod there chassis to get the arms to clear running no shims in the front pivot. I made the suggesting to run the HRC rear toe block and this would get you close with the 1 deg LRC shim up front and the arms should clear the chassis no problem.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:57 AM
  #9323  
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Originally Posted by wreckya View Post
I ran two different combos of the white and red pads to no success.
I have been running white/red/white for 3 weeks and it seems fine. It may be one of your metal spacers have the indent facing the wrong way. It seems to run just fine looser than you typically would tighten it with the standard slipper.
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:15 AM
  #9324  
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Do you guys suggest cutting any of the cutouts out for indoor high bite racing?
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413 View Post
Do you guys suggest cutting any of the cutouts out for indoor high bite racing?
Yeah cut out the stuff in the hood. The roof, and some of the bed holes. (may not need all of the bed holes cut but some are a good idea).

The holes help with down force and parachute even indoor without wind. The car is still moving pretty fast going over jumps and the vented body help it jump and corner better.
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Old 02-13-2014, 12:05 PM
  #9326  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Yeah cut out the stuff in the hood. The roof, and some of the bed holes. (may not need all of the bed holes cut but some are a good idea).

The holes help with down force and parachute even indoor without wind. The car is still moving pretty fast going over jumps and the vented body help it jump and corner better.
Thanks Casper!
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Old 02-13-2014, 03:40 PM
  #9327  
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These things have been on sale a lot lately (AMainHobbies, RPPHobbies.com, etc.) Is there a 2.0 coming out soon?
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Old 02-13-2014, 04:55 PM
  #9328  
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Originally Posted by wreckya View Post
Hey is anyone running an Avid Triad slipper assembly on your SCT with a mod motor? I installed one and ran it today with a 6.5 Orion and I burned it up, the slipper pads twice? It was like it couldn't handle it. First setting was too loose couldn't make the small singles cuz it was slipping too much. Tightened it up and it worked great, for one pack and the pads were fried. The track is only med traction and I wasn't spinning out at all and it still got too hot and ruined it, I don't understand. And it's for the Associated or Losi so the spring that comes with it is too big for the Losis small idler gear. Avid makes a replacement idler for the Losi which is bigger so I can only assume they want u to buy that also.
I do all the time. You need to install the extra thick spacer/washer in the kit to get enough spring pressure on the clutch setup. Also I run white/red/red as shown here: http://www.avidrc.com/downloads/Tria...Guide_Card.pdf

Also if you're running mod I highly suggest the aluminum idler gear. Unfortunately it's not a matter of "if" rather "when" the stock gear lets go.

I do recommend if you're going Avid Triad to get their TLR upper shaft. It allows the use of a larger slipper nut so you can use a standard 5.5mm nut driver...
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:49 PM
  #9329  
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Hey everybody im sure it has been answered on here a million times but what kind of steering servos are you running or what brand has worked best? High torque or high speed? If you guys know of a thread on here that would help just let me know.
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Old 02-13-2014, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cwlsn View Post
Hey everybody im sure it has been answered on here a million times but what kind of steering servos are you running or what brand has worked best? High torque or high speed? If you guys know of a thread on here that would help just let me know.
savox 1258tg
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