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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 02-10-2014, 10:13 AM
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So just so I'm clear, when running the 2.0 rack do you need the low profile ball stud set to achieve "stock" ackerman settings?
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:22 AM
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Ok thanks I ordered them anyways. Was mostly just curious what affects they had.q
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413 View Post
So just so I'm clear, when running the 2.0 rack do you need the low profile ball stud set to achieve "stock" ackerman settings?
Correct
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:27 AM
  #9289  
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Originally Posted by sduffy77 View Post
well I just put the kit together and running in a 17.5 "spec" class near me.
I found the screws to be a bit on the soft side.

I set it up using the Travis Brock's 22SCT Stock 17.5 (indoor clay High bite) Setup as best I could.

I didn't have the 7g of weight to add at to it in the rear.
other differences:
30deg angle
gear diff
stock blue & yellow springs.
stock 22sct tires

I noticed it pushes through turns on power and it likes to kick the back end out. Would adding the weight to the back help this?
One suggestion I got was to shim the trans 1mm, remove the 2mm spacer on the outer camber link, and add a 1mm spacer to the inner camber link.

Can someone please help me understand what these changes will do? I'd like to know why I'm making these changes.
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by sduffy77 View Post
One suggestion I got was to shim the trans 1mm, remove the 2mm spacer on the outer camber link, and add a 1mm spacer to the inner camber link.

Can someone please help me understand what these changes will do? I'd like to know why I'm making these changes.
Raising the tranny helps with the car being a little more stable on the exit of the corner.

The camber link changes will stiffen up the rear end and should give more fwd bite but not as much camber change so you may loose some side bite entering a corner.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:00 PM
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Sorry if this question was asked before. I started using the Losi high pressure greese in my diff. I got tired of the gear diff leaking all the time. Ive had good results so far. Is anyone else running grease?
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jones Auto View Post
Sorry if this question was asked before. I started using the Losi high pressure greese in my diff. I got tired of the gear diff leaking all the time. Ive had good results so far. Is anyone else running grease?
Grease works fine. The problem is it tends to heat up and get quite thin during the end of a run so the car handling changes. Otherwise it is solution.
Guys seem to really like this stuff in the SCTE diffs and may be worth a try as well.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB3590
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Raising the tranny helps with the car being a little more stable on the exit of the corner.

The camber link changes will stiffen up the rear end and should give more fwd bite but not as much camber change so you may loose some side bite entering a corner.
Thanks Casper. I may also try running 35wt shock oil in the rear to limit the weight transfer to the rear in turns power on. I think that and adding weight above the trans should fix these two issues. What do you think?
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:14 PM
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Tires are very important and I noticed you are running the kit tires. They are not bad all around tire but I highly doubt these are the best tire for you conditions.

Travis setup is on the light side shock oil wise so the car does move around a lot but Travis does a great job driving it and it jumps well and is nimble. Thicker oil slows down weight transfer but does not really stop it. We typically don't run rear oil that heavy as we want the weight transfer to the rear. This will slow down weight to the front as well which will likely hurt your low speed push some more.
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:05 AM
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Hey All, I've been running my SCT 22 RTC just as it came to me for the last few weeks. I just ordered a Tekin RS gen2, and a Trinity Killshot 17.5 to replace the ESC and motor. Do I need to change my gearing from what it originally came with, or is that generally only if I was going with a lower turn motor or messing around with the timing? Im running the original ratio (82 Spur and 48 pitch) on an indoor high-bite clay track. I'm very new to R/C racing and would appreciate any help you could offer! Thanks in advance
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Tires are very important and I noticed you are running the kit tires. They are not bad all around tire but I highly doubt these are the best tire for you conditions.

Travis setup is on the light side shock oil wise so the car does move around a lot but Travis does a great job driving it and it jumps well and is nimble. Thicker oil slows down weight transfer but does not really stop it. We typically don't run rear oil that heavy as we want the weight transfer to the rear. This will slow down weight to the front as well which will likely hurt your low speed push some more.
I agree these tires aren't the best for running on clay but the rules for the "spec" class state that I have to run the RTR tires. When I move up to mod I can upgrade tires.
I'll hold off on the heavier oil.

Something else I just notices is I didn't put any shock limiters in, how will this affect performance? Is this just a ride height adjustment?
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DSwirls View Post
Hey All, I've been running my SCT 22 RTC just as it came to me for the last few weeks. I just ordered a Tekin RS gen2, and a Trinity Killshot 17.5 to replace the ESC and motor. Do I need to change my gearing from what it originally came with, or is that generally only if I was going with a lower turn motor or messing around with the timing? Im running the original ratio (82 Spur and 48 pitch) on an indoor high-bite clay track. I'm very new to R/C racing and would appreciate any help you could offer! Thanks in advance
for 17.5 you'll probably want to change out to the 78t spur. I'm not sure what the FDR is on that motor but I'm sure you can find it online and use an online gear ratio calculator to figure out which pinion to use.

http://www.gearmachine.net/

Here's one that I use which will give you a range of different FDR and you can play around with what works best. I believe the internal ratio for the 22 transmission is 2.43. I usually pick a fairly large range and print it out and take it with me to races.
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by sduffy77 View Post
I agree these tires aren't the best for running on clay but the rules for the "spec" class state that I have to run the RTR tires. When I move up to mod I can upgrade tires.
I'll hold off on the heavier oil.

Something else I just notices is I didn't put any shock limiters in, how will this affect performance? Is this just a ride height adjustment?
I think I just found my answer:
http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...-tuning-droop/

So by me not putting any shock limiters in the rear that would cause more droop thus less steering. I'll add this to the list of changes to make and wanted to pass this on.
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:47 AM
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I didn't put any shock limiters in, how will this affect performance? Is this just a ride height adjustment?
Not at all...

Ride height is controlled by the screw adjusters on the outside of the shock that increase/decrease pre-load on the springs......screw these down the shock to add more spring compression to raise the height.....go the other way to lower it. Ride height is VERY important....you should always know what you are wanting to run on both front and back...and you should always check to see what height you have...adjust as required to get the height you want. Use a proper ride height gauge....millimeters matter a lot here....even worse in 2wd buggy....

The internal limiters simply reduce the amount of downtravel of a shock (and wheel)....this can be used to control weight transfer on the truck....for example, if you put some limiters in the front....as the truck accelerates and squats in the rear...it tries to lift the front end up......and when it gets high enough to "pick-up" the tires.....it immediately "feels" heavy and stops going up as easily....since now it must actually pick the front tires up off of the track surface....this generally stops the upward movement...

so, if you add more limiters in the front, it will stop the upward movement of the front of the truck at a lower level than if no limiters were used.....which stops the "squatting" action of the truck....reducing weight transfer to the rear....this would reduce on-power steering....

The same effect happens if you limit the rear....if you run no limiters in the rear...more weight can transfer to the front under braking.

Similar effects happen when the chassis rolls right or left.....

Generally it seems strange to most entry-level drivers that you would want to limit the travel of your shocks on an off-road truck....but the ability to control the weight transfer front/rear or side/side can normally outweigh the effect the reduced travel has on handling rough surfaces or landing from jumps. The designers of these vehicles have normally put MORE travel in the design than you will ever truly want....this allows you to set the maximum travel to your preference......most good setups use limiters on one end or both of a car or truck. 1/8 scale vehicles have droop screws that serve this purpose....

I wish 1/10 scale had droop screws.....
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Bivens View Post
I wish 1/10 scale had droop screws.....
+1
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