wreckya

iTrader: (1)

I'm currently running one of Franks old setups with 3oz of weight where your ESC is and I have good rear traction and I'm pretty happy where its at. I don't see how me losing all that weight in the rear and going to shorter A arms would give me more traction? Frank I'm running your setup from Mikes Hobby in Dallas Tx where u ran the shortcourse series race. Do u think I would benefit by losing all that weight and make these changes? Are u running any weight in the truck now? and where? You run the battery pads right up against the ESC huh. One more question what degree casters are u running and I want the aluminum trailing spindle u running the 2mm ones correct. And the rear hub in aluminum is TLR334014 correct? thanks Frank really app it.

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

22T driveshaft with a 22 SCT axle correct and 22T arms. 22 2.0 aluminum 12mm hexes and hubs? yes?

icuster

iTrader: (2)

Any idea how long Amain will have there sale on the 22sct until??

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

Frank is running the 22 2.0 axle. Hexes are standard buggy ones and yes 22T driveshaft & arm.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

1. The 22T arms are longer, not shorter.
2. I have no weight in my truck.
3. Pad against the ESC, yes.
4. I run the 22 2.0 composite 4mm trailing spindles. There is not a 4mm version of those trailing spindles.
5. Yes, TLR334012 is the aluminum version of the 22 2.0 rear hub.
6. I think the weight was just a temporary solution to help make the truck easier to drive. With the new setup I posted, and the geometry changes that occur with some of the other parts (2.0 caster/spindles, 22T rear arms, 22 std rear hex etc.), really improve the balance, feel, drive-ability, jumping ability and just make a much better truck. If I was coming back to Mike's next week, I'd start with it.

As long as they choose to. We don't control or have influence over any of their pricing.

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Frank I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. Did I read that u were gonna post all the parts along with the part numbers somewhere? Was it gonna be posted on the TLR site? Do u think it will make a big difference if I don't drop the ESC onto the chassis? I'm also currently running the Orion WTS batteries so I'm gonna have to figure somethin out with them also. Might have to go out back and pull some cash off the money tree and pick up these parts and packs lol.

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

I will post parts in a little bit

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

Parts using for new set-up
234006 caster blocks
234007 spindles & rear hub
231013 steering rack
2100 22T rear arm
2927 22T drive shaft Or 323006 alum drive shaft
232008 2.0 axle
2930 rear hex
233008 1.5mm piston
233009 1.6mm piston
5169 Red rear spring
234000 Low mount ball stud For steering rack

Here are 2 parts I would add
6023 10mm ball stud Or 6032 titanium For front camber on caster block
6065 70mm turnbuckle or 6059 titanium For rear camber link


Last but not least if you want some awesome shocks
233005 x-rings
233006 Bushings
233001 Front shock shaft
233004 Rear shock shaft

explorerlyon

iTrader: (3)

Just bought a 22SCT! I will be running on an indoor clay track with high bite. Plan to run mid-motor as others running this track seem to prefer MM.

1. I have no idea what servo to buy. Suggestions please. I also plan to run a full size battery with the mid-motor set up if that changes servo suggestion.

2. Somewhere I thought I read about an optional battery tray but can't seem to find that now allowing full size pack with MM.

3. I am still a rookie. After reading through many many pages of this thread, I realize a lot of the modifications people are making probably apply to a more serious racer. Suggestion for a rookie for upgrades that should be made out of the box. I probably won't notice all the other upgrades until my skills improve.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I have to strongly recommend running soft hi grip tires in the rear and a harder compound less grip tire in front.
I have to do the same thing to the suspension to make it work, soft rear shock setup and stiff front shock setup.
This truck is known to have tons of steering and not much rear grip especially when running similar tires front and rear.
I also run extreme camberlink angles which differ front to rear.

Pbrreviews

iTrader: (14)

what are your camberlink angles, I was expirementing with those the other day, input would be greatly appreciated!

savox 1258tg




QUESTION TO ALL:

what is the difference between the low mount ball stud and regular ball stud?

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

The low mount sits just over 1mm lower than a standard

Bivens

Savox 2272 running on 7.4v...fastest I've found...Love mine in this truck...amazing.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I lowered the inside and raised the outside of the rear camberlinks, a lot, for more overall rear grip.
See Frank Roots latest setup.

I did the opposite on the front camber link, raised the inside and lowered the outside, just kept working to calm this oversteering thing.
The books will tell you that keeping the camberlink angles similar front to rear is ideal for chassis balance.
I just started trying stuff and it's working for me.

Also just switched to mid motor with the same settings and the truck is even better on our hi bite clay.
Won the A main with it first night out. Hey, if the leader crashes and you're there, it's still a win.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Parts list below, thanks to Brian for that.

I think the ESC is better on the chassis, yes, I did notice a difference. If you are running the WTS packs, just get the spacing at the rear correct and let the front fit where it may.

1. Spektrum S6040 is what I run in EVERYTHING including 4wd SC. Been using them for 3 years and never failed a single one.

2. http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR231014

3. I'd just run it as is until you feel the driver is better than the truck, THEN try, the Frank Root 2014 setup which requires a few parts. This really helped me.