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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 01-07-2014, 10:03 PM
  #9046  
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Originally Posted by dirt42fan View Post
Hello
I am sure this has been covered but I want to ask anyhow. I just picked up a 2.0 rack. Does this just bolt in without anything else needing done?

Can I still use the existing ball cup servo linkage or do I need to use the one included?
i suppose you could use the stock link, but i think the new one is better.

you shouldn't need any immediate parts, but i do know the 22 2.0 uses low-mount ballstuds on that steering rack. I am not sure how much lower they are then standard, but i have them on order for mine. i want to say about 1mm lower, judging from the pictures online and and after looking at a local racers 22 2.0.
if frank or casper could chime in on how much lower the low mount studs are.
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:36 PM
  #9047  
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I need some input, i had my 22sct in rear motor configuration and had it dialed in at my local track. My set up was rear motor, -2 camber front and rear, ride height 30mm front and 28 rear, and proline ion mc's front and rear. A lot of guys at my track run mid motor durangos and they just kill it, so i decided to change my truck over to mid motor with the same set up and tires but the truck is like driving on ice, i couldnt get it to hook up for the life of me. I had to pull my truck off the track before the race was over 3 times because i just couldnt get around the track. Anyone have a mid motor setup that works? Do i maybe need to add weight to the rear? My local track is indoor hard packed clay. Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:39 AM
  #9048  
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Not sure if this has been posted or not...the Frank Root's 22 SCT RM set-up using some 22 2.0 and 22T components

Frank Root 22SCT Standard Setup 2014 Indoor

"Frank has been running quite a bit of 2wd Short Course lately, really focusing on developing a new setup for the 22SCT. Trying to find a setup that fit his driving style, but also that of some of his stock class club racing friends (Lee Caldwell and Craig Hammon), they worked to find an easy to drive, but quick setup that had a great natural balance. Frank thinks he's found it with the setup above. It is easy to drive, and not only Frank, but Craig and Lee, are turning some quick laps with it. Some parts from the 22 2.0 and 22T are required, but they are well worth it. Give it a shot and let us know what you think!"

Last edited by cptxaggie; 01-09-2014 at 06:11 AM.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:00 AM
  #9049  
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Originally Posted by MugenMan32 View Post
I need some input, i had my 22sct in rear motor configuration and had it dialed in at my local track. My set up was rear motor, -2 camber front and rear, ride height 30mm front and 28 rear, and proline ion mc's front and rear. A lot of guys at my track run mid motor durangos and they just kill it, so i decided to change my truck over to mid motor with the same set up and tires but the truck is like driving on ice, i couldnt get it to hook up for the life of me. I had to pull my truck off the track before the race was over 3 times because i just couldnt get around the track. Anyone have a mid motor setup that works? Do i maybe need to add weight to the rear? My local track is indoor hard packed clay. Thanks!
Try Caspers set up you can find his MM set up here http://www.casper-rc.com/TLR_22SCT.htm

It is pretty good, I have also tried Franks rear motor setup posted above but in MM configuration.....both seem to work fairly well for me. One thing to check though is your diff, I just had to rebuild mine again cuz my truck felt like it was on ice, nothing I tried worked, rebuilt my diff and the truck came to life.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:04 AM
  #9050  
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Will there be a v2 truck?
sorry if its been ask before
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:01 AM
  #9051  
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Yes a diff is important to a good handeling car. Also for MM we tend to run the diff a little tighter then we would for RM.
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:14 AM
  #9052  
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Originally Posted by cptxaggie View Post
Not sure if this has been posted or not...the Frank Root's 22 SCT RM set-up using some 22 2.0 and 22T components

Frank Root 22SCT Standard Setup 2014 Indoor

"Frank has been running quite a bit of 2wd Short Course lately, really focusing on developing a new setup for the 22SCT. Trying to find a setup that fit his driving style, but also that of some of his stock class club racing friends (Lee Caldwell and Craig Hammon), they worked to find an easy to drive, but quick setup that had a great natural balance. Frank thinks he's found it with the setup above. It is easy to drive, and not only Frank, but Craig and Lee, are turning some quick laps with it. Some parts from the 22 2.0 and 22T are required, but they are well worth it. Give it a shot and let us know what you think!"
Thanks for spotting this and posting it. I have really been working with the setup on SCT quite a bit. Got the truck pretty awesome IMO, and Craig and Lee really like it as well. Let me know if you guys have any questions.
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:37 AM
  #9053  
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Has anyone ran the 22T rear shocks with the 22t arms and shafts? I ask because it looks like everyone is looking for more droop.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
Will there be a v2 truck?
sorry if its been ask before
Frank says no, I say they might as well revise the manual and start selling kits with the 2.0 parts since everyone is running them anyway.

Frank when you run the 22T arms and bones do you have to run the buggy axle or only with the 2.0 rear hub?
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:07 AM
  #9055  
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Originally Posted by WIGMAN View Post
Frank says no, I say they might as well revise the manual and start selling kits with the 2.0 parts since everyone is running them anyway.

Frank when you run the 22T arms and bones do you have to run the buggy axle or only with the 2.0 rear hub?
22 2.0 Hub and 22 2.0 axle.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:25 AM
  #9056  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
22 2.0 Hub and 22 2.0 axle.
TY now I have to buy more parts.....LOL I have the hubs but not the axles, well, I have 1.0 axles...I suppose they are different though aren't they.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:37 AM
  #9057  
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Originally Posted by RCW View Post
Has anyone ran the 22T rear shocks with the 22t arms and shafts? I ask because it looks like everyone is looking for more droop.
This will affect the uptravel as well so be a little careful.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:41 AM
  #9058  
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Guessing the buggy hex keeps the overall width legal with the truck arms? What is the theory behind emulsion front shocks and bladder rear? Interested in giving this setup a try!
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by needknees View Post
Guessing the buggy hex keeps the overall width legal with the truck arms? What is the theory behind emulsion front shocks and bladder rear? Interested in giving this setup a try!
Yeah that is part of it (hexes)

Bladder shocks you have to make sure the bladder is right otherwise the oil can move in the shock like slug with the bladder moving to allow all the oil to move on landings. Emulsion shocks tend to allow the car to land a little better and soak up hard landings better then what we noticed when running bladders.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:56 AM
  #9060  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
This will affect the uptravel as well so be a little careful.
Exactly why I didn't end up using them.

Originally Posted by needknees View Post
Guessing the buggy hex keeps the overall width legal with the truck arms? What is the theory behind emulsion front shocks and bladder rear? Interested in giving this setup a try!
It should be emulsion all the way around, not sure how that end up like that, but probably my fault..

Also, you'll need to add 3mm of up travel limiters to the rear shocks, on the shock shaft between the eyelet and the bottom of the shock body. This keeps the shock piston from reaching the shock cap before the eyelet/spring cup/limit meet the body. If this was the case, the e-clip on the bottom of the piston would break off after a few hard landings.
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