Dirtryder219

iTrader: (58)

Try going up to a 78 spur. I am currently running a 26/78 on mine and have good low end and solid top end. Motor temps are under 140* after 5-7 min runs with no problem.

You could also drop 3 teeth or so on your pinion to achieve the same gearing. I prefer the larger spur on the SCT.....but have tried both ways.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Going down on the spur is like going up on the pinion so that is the wrong way for more bottom end in general. I say this as I have found if you are way undergeared (which I don't think you are) you can gain overall power by gearing up. That is the long answer.

Short answer, larger spur or smaller pinion for more bottom.

I have a setup at www.casper-rc.com that a lot of poeple have had positive feedback on if you want to check it out.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

anyone using a MM set up without after market parts? with success?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

In all honesty a good RM setup is not a bad starting point for a MM setup. Flip the motor around and give it a shot. We are typically lightening up the rear shocks spring and oil a little and maybe a shock angle change but if you like your RM setup you will be close in a MM setup. At least close enough to have a good base.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

I kept your RM set up and switched to MM. I added the TLR weight kit also.

One thin I noticed and not sure what to do here, on the hinge pin block in the manuel it says to add the 2 degree insert in the block. But the tranny does not sit flush on top. Not sure if I am explaining this correctly. I will try to get a screen shot from the manual. I am still getting binding in the tranny also which is causing overheating issues.

Gonna try to a tear down and rebuild this week some time.

Edit: Parts number TLR2044 is what I am talking about.

WIGMAN

iTrader: (19)

In MM the tranny is not suppose to sit flush, you have to change that insert when you go from RM to MM, the MM has bigger holes where the screw goes through it and screws into the tranny, the RM insert the screw screws into it to secure the toe block as the tranny does not sit ontop of the block in RM form.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

Correct I changed it out but to me it looks "not right". I will just have to tear it down and do it again. Thanks for the help though.

WIGMAN

iTrader: (19)

I pulled a ballstud out of the front castor block, does Losi sell any ballstuds with longer threads?

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

Try the ones from the 22 2.0 those go through the front caster block by about 5 mm or so.

Edit:
these: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Set-4-TLR-22

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Careful as the hole does not go all the way through in the 1.0 caster blocks. If you upgrade to the 2.0 blocks you should use the 2.0 spindles with those. The caster blocks alone really are not interchangable.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

I thought he was referring to the actual nose mount block not the castor and spindle. Thats how I read it anyway. Thanks for the clarification if I am indeed wrong on my interpretation

Yeah just checked and I thought it was the fromt camber block he was referring to!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Kit-TLR-22

WIGMAN

iTrader: (19)

I was reffering to the castors, I have the 2.0 castors and spindles on the front of my 22sct. not sure why it pulled out, at least it was on the last lap...lol
Will those that he is reffering to work then casper?

fastford

I have tried the Casper set up. I didn't know if there was a newer version that people liked out there. My current set up is a hrc set up I like just always changing things.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yeah you can run 10mm ball studs for more bite.

dirt42fan

iTrader: (151)

Hello
I am sure this has been covered but I want to ask anyhow. I just picked up a 2.0 rack. Does this just bolt in without anything else needing done?

Can I still use the existing ball cup servo linkage or do I need to use the one included?