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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 12-18-2013, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I think if you look on the TLR website, you will see Mr Root has a setup posted that is from that very track

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...bby%20Shop.pdf
Unfortunately, that is the Mikes hobby shop in Dallas, TX, not Houston TX.
It seem like casper's RM setup is for his "stock class" races and his MM setup is for his "Mod class" races. So should I run a RM or MM setup since I am running a Castle 3800 KV motor? Thank You for the help.
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dmwilson09 View Post
Well I just bought a new 22 sct and plan on running it at Mike's Hobby Shop (Houston, TX) which is a large med-high bite clay track. For the time being, I plan on running a Castle 3800 kv motor. After reading thru 100's of pages, I am not quite sure what setup to run. Should I run casper's RM or MM setup? Thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by dmwilson09 View Post
Unfortunately, that is the Mikes hobby shop in Dallas, TX, not Houston TX.
It seem like casper's RM setup is for his "stock class" races and his MM setup is for his "Mod class" races. So should I run a RM or MM setup since I am running a Castle 3800 KV motor? Thank You for the help.
I would recommend RM for most conditions. If traction is REALLY good MM is good. If you run stock I would stick with RM as less system drag for more power and run a shorty pack.

Also I run Mod in both. I have not run Stock SCT in over 2 years now.

Last edited by Casper; 12-18-2013 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I would recommend RM for most conditions. If traction is REALLY good MM is good. If you run stock I would stick with RM as less system drag for more power and run a shorty pack.

Also I run Mod in both. I have not run Stock SCT in over 2 years now.
Thank you!
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
I've been running the 2.0 Parts and have really been liking it. I don't have a full setup, but here are some highlights:

1. Run 22T rear arms and Bones, and a 22 Buggy Std Rear Hex.
2. -2 Turns unscrewed front shock, -5 turns in the rear (both w/o limiters)
3. Run 1-B front link (super long), 1mm inside, 2mm outside - this is awesome!!
4. 1-C rear link, 0mm inside, 4mm hub
4. Run the ESC on the Chassis
5. Shorty LiPo with 2 pad in front

Let me know what you think!
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when you say ESC on the chassis, do you mean directly behind the servo? or in the rear under the tray?
is "1-C" terms for the newer style 22 2.0 hubs, or the older 1.0 style?
2 pads front as to where? what shorty and how many pads behind it? if you could elaborate a little or post a pic, that would be great.
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
when you say ESC on the chassis, do you mean directly behind the servo? or in the rear under the tray?
is "1-C" terms for the newer style 22 2.0 hubs, or the older 1.0 style?
2 pads front as to where? what shorty and how many pads behind it? if you could elaborate a little or post a pic, that would be great.
Andrew a lot of guys are running the ESC on the chassis below the esc tray. Some leave it out completely, some do a bit of dremel work on the top tray part to allow for wires and the fan. kind of up to you. maybe frank or someone will post a pic. Also, on the new front caster blocks they added an outside hole, and I think that maybe what he is talking about.

To add to franks setup tips, I have been running the HRC front pivot which I felt made a big difference, TLR makes an aluminum one you can pick up.

hope that helps.

Leon
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by punkracer24 View Post
Andrew a lot of guys are running the ESC on the chassis below the esc tray. Some leave it out completely, some do a bit of dremel work on the top tray part to allow for wires and the fan. kind of up to you. maybe frank or someone will post a pic. Also, on the new front caster blocks they added an outside hole, and I think that maybe what he is talking about.

To add to franks setup tips, I have been running the HRC front pivot which I felt made a big difference, TLR makes an aluminum one you can pick up.

hope that helps.

Leon
for 1-C, i meant the rear hubs. I am fully aware of the new front hubs, as i already have those fitted on my SCT. i was just trying to clarify how long a rear link Frank has on the rear.

I tried 2-B on my first outing with the 2.0 front hubs, but it felt too aggressive for my skill level, so i am trying a 1-A front link.
I haven't been out racing in quite a while (about a month and half), so i havent been able to get out and just practice or tune.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:37 AM
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Any updates on the Exotec steering conversion? Is it a worthwhile upgrade?
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Jones Auto View Post
Any updates on the Exotec steering conversion? Is it a worthwhile upgrade?
I have been running mine for a few months and it's great. There is a small amount of slop that developed over time, but a little shimming fixed it right up. Nothing even close to the slop that develops in the stock rack.
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
when you say ESC on the chassis, do you mean directly behind the servo? or in the rear under the tray?
is "1-C" terms for the newer style 22 2.0 hubs, or the older 1.0 style?
2 pads front as to where? what shorty and how many pads behind it? if you could elaborate a little or post a pic, that would be great.
ESC is on the chassis right in front of the anti-squat pivot block. I cut the "shelf" off of the rear battery tray.

1-C is for the older hubs, it would be 1-B on the 2.0 hubs. The longest possible link.

2 pads in front of the battery with the tray in the standard forward position. The reason I don't list the pads behind if because it will depend on what ESC is used and how it is mounted.

Sorry, I don't have the truck with me, so I won't be able to post any pics at this time.
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
ESC is on the chassis right in front of the anti-squat pivot block. I cut the "shelf" off of the rear battery tray.
AHHH see this is why I asked about the sensor wire. I thought you were mounting the ESC behind the servo, like we do with the MM buggy.

I'll clarify the rear camber link on that setup sheet too.
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:17 PM
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I've noticed a big improvement in rear traction when I moved my shorty pack back. I have the Exotek battery holder mounted in the rear most position, with the shorty up against it with a few foam pieces behind it. If I move my short fully forward like you guys are talking about, my rear gets all loose again. I'm wondering why I'm seeing such different behavior.
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Old 12-20-2013, 05:08 AM
  #8907  
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i have casper setup for slick track low grip what can i do to get the push out not enough steering...
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Old 12-20-2013, 05:26 AM
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Ok I got the 22T arms, bones, and 22B std hexs on last night and it doesn't work. The axle is too long. I went back and double checked the post and it didn't say anything about changing the axle. I put the SCT hex back on and it works but I'm guessing the width is not right now. Was I supposed to grab 22 buggy axles too?
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Old 12-20-2013, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Fjburns View Post
i have casper setup for slick track low grip what can i do to get the push out not enough steering...
Go with a softer front tire, run full battery pack more fwd, softer front springs. If you need more detailed help you might elaborate more on your setup tires are big
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Old 12-20-2013, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Ok I got the 22T arms, bones, and 22B std hexs on last night and it doesn't work. The axle is too long. I went back and double checked the post and it didn't say anything about changing the axle. I put the SCT hex back on and it works but I'm guessing the width is not right now. Was I supposed to grab 22 buggy axles too?
I'm not exactly sure but my guess is you will need the 22t axles???
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