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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 12-07-2013, 06:32 AM
  #8821  
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Default bearings?

hey everybody I'm using my smartphone and can't do a search but I think I've narrowed it down to either Boca or Avid bearings but I'm not sure whether I need rubber or metal or ceramic? Maybe different for location? Any input is greatly appreciated thanks.
Kris
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:10 AM
  #8822  
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO
Are the stock plastic idler gears strong enough to handle 6.5-8.5 mod motors or are the aluminum versions a must? I'll need 2 if I'm going MM.



For the thrust bearings in a ball diff, can Mobil One grease be used instead of AE black grease? I might take a crack at building a ball diff. I was going to use a gear diff because I suck at building a long lasting ball diff, but it seems like everyone vouches for them.
The stock nylon gears will work for mod but has a problem. Nylon has a reduced surface friction than alloy but the problem with the nylon on nylon on nylon,and why an alloy idler is available, is tooth deflection. Nylon to nylon gear surfaces and heavy loads will cause gear whip(tooth deflection). This causes more drag in the trans and can cause premature wear. I dont recomend running an alloy idler mating to the alloy top shaft, this too accelerates surface wear. I run alloy top shaft to nylon idler to alloy idler to nylon diff gear. Way less drag this way and wear decreases.
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:55 AM
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out of curiosity, what are you guys gearing a 10.5 at? I need to put some work in.
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackpearl#1
hey everybody I'm using my smartphone and can't do a search but I think I've narrowed it down to either Boca or Avid bearings but I'm not sure whether I need rubber or metal or ceramic? Maybe different for location? Any input is greatly appreciated thanks.
Kris
Kris,

I just replaced mine with the Avid Ceramic metals, with the exception of the 10X15's where the ball diff sits in the tranny case, I used the ceramic revolutions which have a rubber seal. I race mostly indoors so dust isn't terrible and cleaning after each run helps. The tranny bearings seem to collect the most dust so that is why I went with the rubber seal on those.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
out of curiosity, what are you guys gearing a 10.5 at? I need to put some work in.
I have the viper 10.5t in my 22sct, I think i have 21/87. running the triad.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt M.
i would not run mid motor in stock, unless your on carpet or astro....
why not?
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bambambennett
The stock nylon gears will work for mod but has a problem. Nylon has a reduced surface friction than alloy but the problem with the nylon on nylon on nylon,and why an alloy idler is available, is tooth deflection. Nylon to nylon gear surfaces and heavy loads will cause gear whip(tooth deflection). This causes more drag in the trans and can cause premature wear. I dont recomend running an alloy idler mating to the alloy top shaft, this too accelerates surface wear. I run alloy top shaft to nylon idler to alloy idler to nylon diff gear. Way less drag this way and wear decreases.
I ran 13 or 14 races on the aluminum idler gear in 17.5 blinky. slipper was VERY tight, which is normal for 17.5. upon installing the MIP diff, i noticed the upper gear had significant wear, through the annodizing to the bear aluminum. the upper gear is still usable, but i replaced it anyways. idler was fine, no visual wear. i used the TLR balck grease, as the blogspot recommended.
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by OfnaJoe
Wish Tekin would release the RSX, then it and a 5800 Pro2 will be in.
Unless I missed something with the RSX specs it's not rated for use with 4-pole motors.
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:56 AM
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It's rated at 180 amps, it should. But if not I have a Gen2 RX8 already in it with the RevTech 4800
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bambambennett
The stock nylon gears will work for mod but has a problem. Nylon has a reduced surface friction than alloy but the problem with the nylon on nylon on nylon,and why an alloy idler is available, is tooth deflection. Nylon to nylon gear surfaces and heavy loads will cause gear whip(tooth deflection). This causes more drag in the trans and can cause premature wear. I dont recomend running an alloy idler mating to the alloy top shaft, this too accelerates surface wear. I run alloy top shaft to nylon idler to alloy idler to nylon diff gear. Way less drag this way and wear decreases.

Thanks for the tip. One aluminum idler it is for MM.
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom
I have the viper 10.5t in my 22sct, I think i have 21/87. running the triad.
Thanks. I was right in the ball park then.
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:04 PM
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Anybody having issues when changing to a gear diff in mm where it seems too wide and binds up as soon as you tighten the two small case screws? With those screws out or loose it spins nice but when tightened it binds up really tight. Throw the ball diff back in and it's smooth as butter with the screws in. Any ideas?
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:39 PM
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in mid motor do you flip the arms or swap them i.e. left arm on the right or vice versa? I remember someone talking about this but couldnt produce a search result on it in this thread

Edit: is the tranny stiffer feeling in mid motor? when i put the slipper plates on it seems to much stiffer to turn than rear motor. rear motor if free when i spin it mid is not.

Last edited by Carranza76; 12-07-2013 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:16 PM
  #8834  
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Originally Posted by sharksfan88
Anybody having issues when changing to a gear diff in mm where it seems too wide and binds up as soon as you tighten the two small case screws? With those screws out or loose it spins nice but when tightened it binds up really tight. Throw the ball diff back in and it's smooth as butter with the screws in. Any ideas?
Sounds like you need to snug down the screws that hold the gear diff together. In my cars the gear diff has a little side to side play even with the case screws snugged down nicely.
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sharksfan88
Anybody having issues when changing to a gear diff in mm where it seems too wide and binds up as soon as you tighten the two small case screws? With those screws out or loose it spins nice but when tightened it binds up really tight. Throw the ball diff back in and it's smooth as butter with the screws in. Any ideas?
The gear diff is a fraction of a mm too wide. If you open it up and sand the side that holds the gears on a flat surface until the small dimples are gone, the problem goes away.
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