TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
#8821
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
bearings?
hey everybody I'm using my smartphone and can't do a search but I think I've narrowed it down to either Boca or Avid bearings but I'm not sure whether I need rubber or metal or ceramic? Maybe different for location? Any input is greatly appreciated thanks.
Kris
Kris
#8822
Tech Regular
Are the stock plastic idler gears strong enough to handle 6.5-8.5 mod motors or are the aluminum versions a must? I'll need 2 if I'm going MM.
For the thrust bearings in a ball diff, can Mobil One grease be used instead of AE black grease? I might take a crack at building a ball diff. I was going to use a gear diff because I suck at building a long lasting ball diff, but it seems like everyone vouches for them.
For the thrust bearings in a ball diff, can Mobil One grease be used instead of AE black grease? I might take a crack at building a ball diff. I was going to use a gear diff because I suck at building a long lasting ball diff, but it seems like everyone vouches for them.
#8824
Tech Addict
iTrader: (58)
I just replaced mine with the Avid Ceramic metals, with the exception of the 10X15's where the ball diff sits in the tranny case, I used the ceramic revolutions which have a rubber seal. I race mostly indoors so dust isn't terrible and cleaning after each run helps. The tranny bearings seem to collect the most dust so that is why I went with the rubber seal on those.
#8826
#8827
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
The stock nylon gears will work for mod but has a problem. Nylon has a reduced surface friction than alloy but the problem with the nylon on nylon on nylon,and why an alloy idler is available, is tooth deflection. Nylon to nylon gear surfaces and heavy loads will cause gear whip(tooth deflection). This causes more drag in the trans and can cause premature wear. I dont recomend running an alloy idler mating to the alloy top shaft, this too accelerates surface wear. I run alloy top shaft to nylon idler to alloy idler to nylon diff gear. Way less drag this way and wear decreases.
#8828
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
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#8830
Tech Master
iTrader: (57)
The stock nylon gears will work for mod but has a problem. Nylon has a reduced surface friction than alloy but the problem with the nylon on nylon on nylon,and why an alloy idler is available, is tooth deflection. Nylon to nylon gear surfaces and heavy loads will cause gear whip(tooth deflection). This causes more drag in the trans and can cause premature wear. I dont recomend running an alloy idler mating to the alloy top shaft, this too accelerates surface wear. I run alloy top shaft to nylon idler to alloy idler to nylon diff gear. Way less drag this way and wear decreases.
Thanks for the tip. One aluminum idler it is for MM.
#8832
Anybody having issues when changing to a gear diff in mm where it seems too wide and binds up as soon as you tighten the two small case screws? With those screws out or loose it spins nice but when tightened it binds up really tight. Throw the ball diff back in and it's smooth as butter with the screws in. Any ideas?
#8833
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
in mid motor do you flip the arms or swap them i.e. left arm on the right or vice versa? I remember someone talking about this but couldnt produce a search result on it in this thread
Edit: is the tranny stiffer feeling in mid motor? when i put the slipper plates on it seems to much stiffer to turn than rear motor. rear motor if free when i spin it mid is not.
Edit: is the tranny stiffer feeling in mid motor? when i put the slipper plates on it seems to much stiffer to turn than rear motor. rear motor if free when i spin it mid is not.
Last edited by Carranza76; 12-07-2013 at 05:21 PM.
#8834
Anybody having issues when changing to a gear diff in mm where it seems too wide and binds up as soon as you tighten the two small case screws? With those screws out or loose it spins nice but when tightened it binds up really tight. Throw the ball diff back in and it's smooth as butter with the screws in. Any ideas?
#8835
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
Anybody having issues when changing to a gear diff in mm where it seems too wide and binds up as soon as you tighten the two small case screws? With those screws out or loose it spins nice but when tightened it binds up really tight. Throw the ball diff back in and it's smooth as butter with the screws in. Any ideas?