1LikesTLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
09-14-2013, 08:08 PM
#8116
So, my stock CVDs are pretty worn, as are the outdrives. I've been meaning to replace them, but they "still work ok". However, the past two weekends, I keep losing the pin that holds the bone to the axle. I make sure to locktite the retainer screw so that it holds the pin in place, but it manages to work itself loose, tears up the knuckle, and falls out. I'm guessing it's because my CVDs are so worn and there is so much play now. Anyone have similar issues?
In any case, I'm thinking new CVDs and I'm eyeing the MIP kit: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-CVD-Kit-22SCT
The MIP kit includes capture rings, which I wish TLR would include in their CVDs. Anyone run the MIP kit and have an opinion?
In any case, I'm thinking new CVDs and I'm eyeing the MIP kit: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-CVD-Kit-22SCT
The MIP kit includes capture rings, which I wish TLR would include in their CVDs. Anyone run the MIP kit and have an opinion?
I will ask, what kind of threadlock are you using? I have only had one incident of the set screw backing out, and have since switch to Red loctite, havent had an issue since.
09-14-2013, 11:56 PM
#8117
i haven't had good luck with MIP 'CVD's' in the past for starters, but i cannot comment on the set for the 22 because I havent used it.
I will ask, what kind of threadlock are you using? I have only had one incident of the set screw backing out, and have since switch to Red loctite, havent had an issue since.
I will ask, what kind of threadlock are you using? I have only had one incident of the set screw backing out, and have since switch to Red loctite, havent had an issue since.
09-15-2013, 07:24 AM
#8118
The notch in the pin will work even without Loctite since the screw can still come loose but the pin can't come out.
Gotta clean the screw and the hole before the blue Loctite will work best.
If you choose red Loctite it will need heat to remove the screw, use your soldering iron and touch it, that'll get it loose.
Gotta clean the screw and the hole before the blue Loctite will work best.
If you choose red Loctite it will need heat to remove the screw, use your soldering iron and touch it, that'll get it loose.
09-15-2013, 04:38 PM
#8119
The notch in the pin will work even without Loctite since the screw can still come loose but the pin can't come out.
Gotta clean the screw and the hole before the blue Loctite will work best.
If you choose red Loctite it will need heat to remove the screw, use your soldering iron and touch it, that'll get it loose.
Gotta clean the screw and the hole before the blue Loctite will work best.
If you choose red Loctite it will need heat to remove the screw, use your soldering iron and touch it, that'll get it loose.
I havent built/cleaned my CV's in quit a few races, but I don't remember there being a notch on the pin on this truck.
as Cuda said, use a soldering iron when using red Loctite. I tyr to use a very small amount. I
MO its kinda like glueing tires or building ball diffs, less can be more in some ways.
09-15-2013, 08:04 PM
#8120
as Cuda said, use a soldering iron when using red Loctite. I tyr to use a very small amount. I
MO its kinda like glueing tires or building ball diffs, less can be more in some ways.
MO its kinda like glueing tires or building ball diffs, less can be more in some ways.
09-15-2013, 08:35 PM
#8121
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
No, they do not, he was suggesting I grind some notches into them to help the set screw hold them in place.
I'm considering the red loctite now, and I know that I'm OCD about cleaning the CVDs. But just using motor spray to flush out dirt never did a good enough job in my opinion. But, in all honest, the drive shaft upper pins (that go into the outdrives) and the outdrives themselves wear out WAY before the shaft connection has a chance to. So perhaps I'm just overdoing things.
I'm considering the red loctite now, and I know that I'm OCD about cleaning the CVDs. But just using motor spray to flush out dirt never did a good enough job in my opinion. But, in all honest, the drive shaft upper pins (that go into the outdrives) and the outdrives themselves wear out WAY before the shaft connection has a chance to. So perhaps I'm just overdoing things.
09-15-2013, 10:42 PM
#8122
Where are the lower shock parts everyone is talking about? I have a used 22sct coming.
09-16-2013, 07:45 AM
#8124
Suspended
That's a surefire way to bind the rear suspension, because there's no way you can tell me that the CVDs are able to retain their intended/designed amount of freedom of movement.
09-16-2013, 08:01 AM
#8125
Suspended
the past two weekends, I keep losing the pin that holds the bone to the axle. I make sure to locktite the retainer screw so that it holds the pin in place, but it manages to work itself loose, tears up the knuckle, and falls out. I'm guessing it's because my CVDs are so worn and there is so much play now. Anyone have similar issues?
In any case, I'm thinking new CVDs and I'm eyeing the MIP kit:
In any case, I'm thinking new CVDs and I'm eyeing the MIP kit:
Before capture rings were invented, an old school trick was to install a small (1/8th inch) piece of hear shrink tubing on the cup of the axle, just enough to cover the pin, and it aided greatly in keeping the pins from slipping out.
I've done it as a practice for years, and as long as the set screw was tight, I can't say I've ever list a pin (even when just using blue loctite, which I prefer over red as I don't want to have to screw around with heating screws).
09-16-2013, 12:07 PM
#8126
Haven't tried the MIP CVDs, so I don't have an opinion either way, but I haven't had your problem either.
Before capture rings were invented, an old school trick was to install a small (1/8th inch) piece of hear shrink tubing on the cup of the axle, just enough to cover the pin, and it aided greatly in keeping the pins from slipping out.
I've done it as a practice for years, and as long as the set screw was tight, I can't say I've ever list a pin (even when just using blue loctite, which I prefer over red as I don't want to have to screw around with heating screws).
Before capture rings were invented, an old school trick was to install a small (1/8th inch) piece of hear shrink tubing on the cup of the axle, just enough to cover the pin, and it aided greatly in keeping the pins from slipping out.
I've done it as a practice for years, and as long as the set screw was tight, I can't say I've ever list a pin (even when just using blue loctite, which I prefer over red as I don't want to have to screw around with heating screws).
If all else fails, I'll play test monkey and get the MIP kit
09-16-2013, 06:35 PM
#8127
If you have a Dremel and a cutoff wheel you really should try the notch.
It's too easy.
Even if the screw comes loose the pin can't come out.
If you don't have a Dremel you can sand it, file it...
Motor spray the screw and hole, blue loctite and fuhgetaboutit.
It's too easy.
Even if the screw comes loose the pin can't come out.
If you don't have a Dremel you can sand it, file it...
Motor spray the screw and hole, blue loctite and fuhgetaboutit.
09-16-2013, 07:33 PM
#8128
I also had issues with the driveshaft pins coming out. They would work out every few race nights. About a month ago I put a strip of shrink tubing on the collar as the others are talking about and haven't had a problem since!
09-16-2013, 08:42 PM
#8129
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
I have been running the MIP cvd's since April in 17.5. Weigh the same as stock and rebuilding my truck now. The pins have some wear but the axle and coupler are still in perfect shape. I had my pins back out a few times with the stock ones and have been real happy with the MIP's.
