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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 08-22-2013, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by rcracenut View Post
I had 7000 to start with. Work my way up 15000, 50000 , then the grease seemed to help. Some are running a completely tight ball diff.
going to heavier oil or grease helps keeping the rear end from washing out in the corners????


sorry, you have it dead backwards. that just makes it worse.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by hoonigantoo View Post
going to heavier oil or grease helps keeping the rear end from washing out in the corners????


sorry, you have it dead backwards. that just makes it worse.
you have it backwards kind of,
i think the biggest issue is that he has the High Roll Center block. you NEED to run the LOW ROLL CENTER.
for the diff, you should be anywhere from 2000 to 10,000 wt R/C specific Silicon Differential Oil.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BigDaddyXL View Post
Cool. Ill check it out. I haven't heard great things about the aluminum ones like this but if Casper sells it might be worth checking out.

Your probably right. I'm sure there is some language somewhere in an endorsement contract that covers this issue. Was just a thought that I had. I am from Jasper, about midway between Louisville and Evansville on 64. We run in Owensboro Ky at Golfland.

I cannot argue your logic. Cheaper and easier to keep a couple spare racks. I appreciate the input.
I am sur MBToolmaker makes a great product but the exotek rack does more than get rid of slop it give the car unreal steering you do not get with the slider.

Buy once is my motto just ask Sapper he know all to well.

I asked a TLR drive and they cannot run after market parts such at the Exotek rack
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
you have it backwards kind of

what?

going heavier on the oil or grease is more apt to lock the diff, locking the diff makes the truck more apt to spin out.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by XXXDad View Post
+1 Its a simple no brainer upgrade to the mbtoolmaker35 Rack...... Price and Performance. I have 3.... all perfect and zero slop.



you fixed all 3 of yours for basically the price of 1 exotek rack
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by hoonigantoo View Post
what?

going heavier on the oil or grease is more apt to lock the diff, locking the diff makes the truck more apt to spin out.
obviously you didn't read all of my post.
you are correct of the diff viscosity theory, thicker fluid will make the rear end feel more loose, and thinner fluid will make the rear feel tighter.
BUT I believe the main problem is that he has a HRC block.
make sense?
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
obviously you didn't read all of my post.
you are correct of the diff viscosity theory, thicker fluid will make the rear end feel more loose, and thinner fluid will make the rear feel tighter.
BUT I believe the main problem is that he has a HRC block.
make sense?
now i do, BUT i still don't understand why you replied to my post instead of his.
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hoonigantoo View Post
what?

going heavier on the oil or grease is more apt to lock the diff, locking the diff makes the truck more apt to spin out.
When I think of it, if the diff sends its power to the wheel spinning the easiest, with lighter fluid it would send all the power to one wheel quicker and being its only one contact patch it will break loose easier. Whereas if its fluid is thicker, that same power needs to break two contact patches loose. Being its twice as hard to break two patches loose the rear would spin less and plant itself more. That's what I've seen anyway. I'll get my hands on a 4 degree LRC block and see how that works. Maybe another couple oz of weight (on top of what I already added) will help too.
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rcracenut View Post
When I think of it, if the diff sends its power to the wheel spinning the easiest, with lighter fluid it would send all the power to one wheel quicker and being its only one contact patch it will break loose easier. Whereas if its fluid is thicker, that same power needs to break two contact patches loose. Being its twice as hard to break two patches loose the rear would spin less and plant itself more. That's what I've seen anyway.
like i said, you're thinking about it wrong, and what you're doing is making your problem worse.

even rc onroad cars running on high traction surfaces don't lock their rear diff, it's suicide in offroad on low traction surfaces. you're defeating the whole purpose of having a diff. there's a reason they don't sell locking diff for these trucks.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:23 PM
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Cool Plant your rear end...

Originally Posted by rcracenut View Post
I have a 22sct and I need to plant the rear end much more than it is. I have long camber links and shocks leaned out as well as the 1mm spacer under the trans. I have the 4 degree HRC block in. I have a 3 degree lrc block. ESC is in mildest mode. Slipper as far out as possible. Gear diff with HEAVY chassis grease inside. Rebar front tires and super soft cityblocks on rear. Otherwise I followed Roots set up for dry slippery outdoor track. Suggestions?
Ok here is some input: Gear dif works well where there IS Traction. So if your Track is loose... Get a Ball dif.
Your rear tire not the best for 2WD SCT I recomend a SS Holeshot.
Your front tire is wayyy agressive. Tame things down with soft or clay compound.


Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
Get rid of that HRC and use the LRC 3 block or get the 4 LRC block.

Try that first should improve greatly once you switch that out.
Rear is good needs to be LRC. I like the 3* and soft springs and light oils

Originally Posted by hoonigantoo View Post
other that what's already suggested, you might want to get rid of thr heavy automotove grease you're using in the diff. it's probably locking it up, and worsening your prpblem, ans switch to some lighter 3K - 5K rc diff oil that will at least allow to work as intended.
If you have to stick with that darn gear dif use light oil I recomend 1000-2000...
Originally Posted by rcracenut View Post
I had 7000 to start with. Work my way up 15000, 50000 , then the grease seemed to help. Some are running a completely tight ball diff.
A Ball Dif is like tracton control, and needs to be fresh and smooth. Run Caspers Thrust Bearing in it.
Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
you have it backwards kind of,
i think the biggest issue is that he has the High Roll Center block. you NEED to run the LOW ROLL CENTER.
for the diff, you should be anywhere from 2000 to 10,000 wt R/C specific Silicon Differential Oil.

Originally Posted by hoonigantoo View Post
like i said, you're thinking about it wrong, and what you're doing is making your problem worse.

even rc onroad cars running on high traction surfaces don't lock their rear diff, it's suicide in offroad on low traction surfaces. you're defeating the whole purpose of having a diff. there's a reason they don't sell locking diff for these trucks.


Sell that dif to your buddy..... Get some Ballz (Dif)
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:46 PM
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Default Ride height

Is everyone measuring ride height with the body on or body off?
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:12 PM
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Red face ON

Originally Posted by Mototech View Post
Is everyone measuring ride height with the body on or body off?
But its not so easy....
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mototech View Post
Is everyone measuring ride height with the body on or body off?
Most people do it with body off. Unless your body is slathered in paint, it shouldn't make much difference anyway.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Most people do it with body off. Unless your body is slathered in paint, it shouldn't make much difference anyway.
my truck sits 0.5mm~1mm lower with the body on. body is the jconcepts hi flow.
nothing I have ever worried about.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:29 PM
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i have brand new 22 sct's sealed for 320$ pm me for details
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