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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 07-08-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Hi Nicolas, you're welcome, I don't know if anyone has. I know that was used by Jon Gagnon with a 17.5, but he'd have a good idea if he thinks any changes would/should be done if running mod. But my guess is it would be the same with the exception of maybe a couple minor things like gearing and maybe going up 2.5 in shock oil or something if there's big jumps. Hopefully Jon chimes in and gives some input. But I'd start from there for a baseline starting point.
I tried this setup last Sunday on the astro bumpy track of BPT in Merchtem and it was really good with a 7.5 motor. I was running schumacher mini spike yellow all around and the car was really good with excellent steering while remaining stable and quick in fast corners. Compared to the setup only difference was 7k in the diff. I had no time to try adjustments but if I was to change anything it would be first staggered tires in front (for smoother entry in turns).
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
I'm just having no luck with after-market steering sliders. I thought I was okay with the Aluminium slider and housing rack. Seemed to work okay when the track was dry, as long as it was generously lubed with WD-40. Unfortunates, it locked up on the first practice lap before racing today when the track was wet. The AL sl;ider and housing already has some play that was noty there when new. Loose wet dirt / mud from the track gets in the works and grinds it to a hard lock. I had time to rebuild the front end with the stock steering rack. But even then, it just didn't track right all day, and to make matters worse, I kept popping a ball cup off one of the steering links. Once during a heat race and it popped off twice during the A-Main. Guess they are stretched out of shape from the stress of the rack locking up. I'll have to install new ones -- again -- and recheck the whole front end to make sure nothing else is torqued out of shape. Oh well. I'm back to the stock rack. If it wears too fast again, maybe I'll try the Exotek solution. For now, I can wait till I'm sure nothing else needs fixing.
Buy the Exotek rack if you have problems with it I will buy it from you for the price you paid for it as long as you send me a copy of the receipt. Thats how confident I am you will love it. Let me know.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
Buy the Exotek rack if you have problems with it I will buy it from you for the price you paid for it as long as you send me a copy of the receipt. Thats how confident I am you will love it. Let me know.
Does anyone other than exotek have these in stock I need some other parts would like to place 1 order save some shipping
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RossNZ View Post
Are any of you guys getting to much rear end traction? I'm finding off jumps when I gas it it pulls the front off the track, we also have a rise half way down the straight were the front will lift, pulling the truck over if I don't "catch it" in time, I'm still winning but could be alot faster, only done a few race days with this truck, rear end is kit setup running 20wt oil, any ideas?

It's a bumpy outdoor track, mid to low traction.
I wish I knew your set up!!! I am fighting getting even a little traction...
I have tried almost every combo you can think of with not much luck. My other truck is an associated SC10 and it has all the rear traction in the world.
I run on loose loamy tracks and can't seem to find that sweet spot where the rear stays planted. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated... I don't want to park this truck!!!
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tekinACE View Post
Does anyone other than exotek have these in stock I need some other parts would like to place 1 order save some shipping
Try google I know my local hobby shop carries it but that's about it and they do not do online. Sorry
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RichyRich View Post
I wish I knew your set up!!! I am fighting getting even a little traction...
I have tried almost every combo you can think of with not much luck. My other truck is an associated SC10 and it has all the rear traction in the world.
I run on loose loamy tracks and can't seem to find that sweet spot where the rear stays planted. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated... I don't want to park this truck!!!
who's set up do you have on the truck?
transmission raised 1mm?
I highly recommend Casper's set up:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se..._OCRC20121224/
it works really well just about everywhere; it just works!
FYI: that setup hasn't been updated, there is 3mm on the rear hubs. (under the outside ballstud)
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by RichyRich View Post
I wish I knew your set up!!! I am fighting getting even a little traction...
I have tried almost every combo you can think of with not much luck. My other truck is an associated SC10 and it has all the rear traction in the world.
I run on loose loamy tracks and can't seem to find that sweet spot where the rear stays planted. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated... I don't want to park this truck!!!
I've found the truck comes around on outside tracks when you use the most aggressive rear tires you can find. I've been running panther Boas rear and holeshots front and the truck has been much better than trying to run something intermediate like blockades, enduros, tasers, etc all the way around - unless the track is moderate traction. Most outdoors I run are loose low traction
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:18 AM
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You should be able to get away with the same tread all around but try and run a harder compound up front then the rear if available.
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:11 PM
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CASPER I bought part #TLR334000 O-rings bleeder shock cap. The rubber is a lot smaller than the stock ones that came with truck. 22 sct. Was there a mistake on packaging?
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by xxxtruck View Post
CASPER I bought part #TLR334000 O-rings bleeder shock cap. The rubber is a lot smaller than the stock ones that came with truck. 22 sct. Was there a mistake on packaging?
The SCT came with a large flat o-ring that goes up inside the cap that acts like a cut out bladder. The TLR33400 rings go on the outside of the shock body and seal the cap at the base of the threads. These are different. I prefer the tlr334000

This should help clear things up.

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/search?q=tlr334000
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:24 PM
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Thanks
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
who's set up do you have on the truck?
transmission raised 1mm?
I highly recommend Casper's set up:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se..._OCRC20121224/
it works really well just about everywhere; it just works!
FYI: that setup hasn't been updated, there is 3mm on the rear hubs. (under the outside ballstud)
Thanks for the info. Right now I run a cross between Ryan Dunsford set up and Matt Sunderlage. I run the 1.7 two hole oistons in the rear and 1.6 two hole in front with 30 wt all around. I use 22 buggy yellow spring in the rear as they are more progressive.(Per Ryan) I used to run the trans raised but it did not seem to affect it much and some team driers have gone away from this. My rear camber links are raised equal 2.5mm and tires are super soft anything and everything from DD's to Gladiators. I have the full weight kit for rear motor with an extra 1/2 oz behind the battery. I also run a B-Fast diff that I keep clean and smooth. Not sure what else to do... I have the expo set pretty soft and have run everything from a 7.5 to 10.5 motor. The biggest issue is getting back on power after the apex of a turn.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RichyRich View Post
Thanks for the info. Right now I run a cross between Ryan Dunsford set up and Matt Sunderlage. I run the 1.7 two hole oistons in the rear and 1.6 two hole in front with 30 wt all around. I use 22 buggy yellow spring in the rear as they are more progressive.(Per Ryan) I used to run the trans raised but it did not seem to affect it much and some team driers have gone away from this. My rear camber links are raised equal 2.5mm and tires are super soft anything and everything from DD's to Gladiators. I have the full weight kit for rear motor with an extra 1/2 oz behind the battery. I also run a B-Fast diff that I keep clean and smooth. Not sure what else to do... I have the expo set pretty soft and have run everything from a 7.5 to 10.5 motor. The biggest issue is getting back on power after the apex of a turn.
Raised tranny will help with that. As well as a less agressive front tire.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Raised tranny will help with that. As well as a less agressive front tire.
Thanks, I will raise the tranny back up. As for tires I try and run the same all the way around. I do have super soft and soft of the same tire so I could change that up. I really like this truck I just wish I could get on the throttle sooner. What are your thoughts on the shock set up and pistons? I use the AE 2 hole 1.6 and 1.7's?
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
You should be able to get away with the same tread all around but try and run a harder compound up front then the rear if available.
I agree with running same tread all around,
is there any real reason why we should run softer rear?

Originally Posted by RichyRich View Post
Thanks, I will raise the tranny back up. As for tires I try and run the same all the way around. I do have super soft and soft of the same tire so I could change that up. I really like this truck I just wish I could get on the throttle sooner. What are your thoughts on the shock set up and pistons? I use the AE 2 hole 1.6 and 1.7's?
make sure your shocks have zero rebound. when you bleed your shocks, make sure that after you install the bleed screw, you pump it up 10 to 15 times, and make sure there is still no rebound.
I use the 1.5x2 front, and 1.6x2 rear. 25wt assoc. oil all around (same viscosity as TLR 27.5), i am running shorty packs, 17.5 blinky class
you could try the truck yellow spring, that lower progression may help with forward bite.
I had been running the Low Frequency springs rear, but i am going to try truck white next time I'm out. I am not convinced that running a progressive front spring and non-progressive rear is the best.
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