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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 07-04-2013, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mbtoolmaker35 View Post
Wow was not prepared for this i am down to 10 all aluminum racks and i am currently working on the aluminum housing with brass slider. I do have 3 of these available i have not tested in car but it feels great on the bench. They are a little more expensive due to brass prices.

Thanks
Michael




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Old 07-04-2013, 06:26 PM
  #7667  
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Hi All,

I was hoping somebody could give me some setup tips. I race on an indoor track which has several variations of low/medium grip carpet and some very low grip concrete. I have got my SC working pretty good (TQ all rounds of qualifying and won the A main) but I still think I can improve it. The car rolls almost to the point of traction rolling.

I am happy with the balance of the car, I just think it might be a little easier to drive if the chassis stayed a little flatter.

Here is a video from a hat cam of a Qualifying Heat (My car is the Green truck that the camera follows):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIJw1FuFJ9E

I was thinking to perhaps try some swaybars as I am not currently using any? Just as long as I can keep the balance about the same.

Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:25 AM
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Last edited by XXXDad; 07-06-2013 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by stricko View Post
Hi All,

I was hoping somebody could give me some setup tips. I race on an indoor track which has several variations of low/medium grip carpet and some very low grip concrete. I have got my SC working pretty good (TQ all rounds of qualifying and won the A main) but I still think I can improve it. The car rolls almost to the point of traction rolling.

I am happy with the balance of the car, I just think it might be a little easier to drive if the chassis stayed a little flatter.

Here is a video from a hat cam of a Qualifying Heat (My car is the Green truck that the camera follows):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIJw1FuFJ9E

I was thinking to perhaps try some swaybars as I am not currently using any? Just as long as I can keep the balance about the same.

Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers
I say you go ahead and try the swaybars. I'm running the softest (white, I believe) front and back, and that did reduce the body roll nicely. You can play with the different stiffness bars and see what works the best for you. The Losi swaybar kit isn't too expensive, so it's worth a shot
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:08 AM
  #7670  
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I say you go ahead and try the swaybars. I'm running the softest (white, I believe) front and back, and that did reduce the body roll nicely. You can play with the different stiffness bars and see what works the best for you. The Losi swaybar kit isn't too expensive, so it's worth a shot
or the 2 hole pistons. they help a lot too!
you can either buy these, they are a direct fit:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Piston-Set

or glue two holes closed and drill the other two holes out with the correct size drill bit.

IMO the assoc. pistons are way easier, $4-install them in your car and test.
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
or the 2 hole pistons. they help a lot too!
you can either buy these, they are a direct fit:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Piston-Set

or glue two holes closed and drill the other two holes out with the correct size drill bit.

IMO the assoc. pistons are way easier, $4-install them in your car and test.
Oh yes, +1 to that! I forgot to mention it. I'm also running the Associated pistons.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:56 PM
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Geetings all.....just recently upgraded from a XXX-SCT to a mildly upgraded 22SCT that I bought from a local racer. I've got a couple questions....

1. Aside from the kit setup, what is a good starting point for outdoor hard clay track (mix of some blue groove, and loose fluffy outside the race line)?

Most of the tracks where I will run this truck are the usual 1/10 or 1/8th tracks.....somewhat tight and technical, but nothing out of the ordinary. I keep seeing the "casper/dunford set-up". Anyone have a link to this particular setup?

2. When setting the EPA for the steering, I get a strange phenomenon. The inside wheel will not turn far enough to reach the stop....the steering rack moves the tire until the link is parallel to the steering arm on the hub. At that point it can't turn any further, but it's still 3-4mm from hitting the carrier. I can manually push it over center, and make it touch with hardly any effort, but the steering rack will not pull it that far.

I know it's an Ackerman issue, but it's got all stock parts on the front, except for an aluminum pivot bracket. Am I missing something, or is this the way it's supposed to be?

I've got an Exotek rack on my list of upgrades, but I wanted to ask about the rack first.

Thanks.....
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Stubbs View Post
Geetings all.....just recently upgraded from a XXX-SCT to a mildly upgraded 22SCT that I bought from a local racer. I've got a couple questions....

1. Aside from the kit setup, what is a good starting point for outdoor hard clay track (mix of some blue groove, and loose fluffy outside the race line)?

Most of the tracks where I will run this truck are the usual 1/10 or 1/8th tracks.....somewhat tight and technical, but nothing out of the ordinary. I keep seeing the "casper/dunford set-up". Anyone have a link to this particular setup?

2. When setting the EPA for the steering, I get a strange phenomenon. The inside wheel will not turn far enough to reach the stop....the steering rack moves the tire until the link is parallel to the steering arm on the hub. At that point it can't turn any further, but it's still 3-4mm from hitting the carrier. I can manually push it over center, and make it touch with hardly any effort, but the steering rack will not pull it that far.

I know it's an Ackerman issue, but it's got all stock parts on the front, except for an aluminum pivot bracket. Am I missing something, or is this the way it's supposed to be?

I've got an Exotek rack on my list of upgrades, but I wanted to ask about the rack first.

Thanks.....
You can find the setup at www.casper-rc.com

This truck has a LOT more steering throw then the XXX-SCT so getting the inside wheel to over center is not all that big a deal and the amount of play you have in the rack.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:10 PM
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I'm just having no luck with after-market steering sliders. I thought I was okay with the Aluminium slider and housing rack. Seemed to work okay when the track was dry, as long as it was generously lubed with WD-40. Unfortunates, it locked up on the first practice lap before racing today when the track was wet. The AL sl;ider and housing already has some play that was noty there when new. Loose wet dirt / mud from the track gets in the works and grinds it to a hard lock. I had time to rebuild the front end with the stock steering rack. But even then, it just didn't track right all day, and to make matters worse, I kept popping a ball cup off one of the steering links. Once during a heat race and it popped off twice during the A-Main. Guess they are stretched out of shape from the stress of the rack locking up. I'll have to install new ones -- again -- and recheck the whole front end to make sure nothing else is torqued out of shape. Oh well. I'm back to the stock rack. If it wears too fast again, maybe I'll try the Exotek solution. For now, I can wait till I'm sure nothing else needs fixing.
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
I'm just having no luck with after-market steering sliders. I thought I was okay with the Aluminium slider and housing rack. Seemed to work okay when the track was dry, as long as it was generously lubed with WD-40. Unfortunates, it locked up on the first practice lap before racing today when the track was wet. The AL sl;ider and housing already has some play that was noty there when new. Loose wet dirt / mud from the track gets in the works and grinds it to a hard lock. I had time to rebuild the front end with the stock steering rack. But even then, it just didn't track right all day, and to make matters worse, I kept popping a ball cup off one of the steering links. Once during a heat race and it popped off twice during the A-Main. Guess they are stretched out of shape from the stress of the rack locking up. I'll have to install new ones -- again -- and recheck the whole front end to make sure nothing else is torqued out of shape. Oh well. I'm back to the stock rack. If it wears too fast again, maybe I'll try the Exotek solution. For now, I can wait till I'm sure nothing else needs fixing.
I put the Trax Turnbuckles on. Captive... cant pop off. As for the rack...
I WD40 it.
Check Page one of this Thred.
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:14 PM
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I'm still loving my Exotek steering rack. I run on a really dusty track that required me to constantly lube and clean the stock style steering rack. I bought mine the day they came out and I haven't touched since. It's nice to not have to worry about when the rack will lock up if I don't have time to clean it between each main. Not cheap but worth every penny.
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:15 PM
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And balls never pop off on the Exotek rack either because of the geometry change of the inside balls.
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:11 PM
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Dang it... I'm going to have to get the Exotek rack I think. I don't have lockup problems with the stock rack, I just really hate the play. Granted, I run the truck pretty hard, but it's still a lot more sloppy than I like. It's especially annoying when trying to get the front camber set, as the slop results in like 4 degrees of difference from one wobble-stop to the other. When you're going for 1 degree of camber, that really sucks.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by idswass View Post
I'm still loving my Exotek steering rack. I run on a really dusty track that required me to constantly lube and clean the stock style steering rack. I bought mine the day they came out and I haven't touched since. It's nice to not have to worry about when the rack will lock up if I don't have time to clean it between each main. Not cheap but worth every penny.
+1

Originally Posted by idswass View Post
And balls never pop off on the Exotek rack either because of the geometry change of the inside balls.
+1

Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Dang it... I'm going to have to get the Exotek rack I think. I don't have lockup problems with the stock rack, I just really hate the play. Granted, I run the truck pretty hard, but it's still a lot more sloppy than I like. It's especially annoying when trying to get the front camber set, as the slop results in like 4 degrees of difference from one wobble-stop to the other. When you're going for 1 degree of camber, that really sucks.
You will not regret it one bit!
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Stubbs View Post
Geetings all.....just recently upgraded from a XXX-SCT to a mildly upgraded 22SCT that I bought from a local racer. I've got a couple questions....

1. Aside from the kit setup, what is a good starting point for outdoor hard clay track (mix of some blue groove, and loose fluffy outside the race line)?

Most of the tracks where I will run this truck are the usual 1/10 or 1/8th tracks.....somewhat tight and technical, but nothing out of the ordinary. I keep seeing the "casper/dunford set-up". Anyone have a link to this particular setup?

2. When setting the EPA for the steering, I get a strange phenomenon. The inside wheel will not turn far enough to reach the stop....the steering rack moves the tire until the link is parallel to the steering arm on the hub. At that point it can't turn any further, but it's still 3-4mm from hitting the carrier. I can manually push it over center, and make it touch with hardly any effort, but the steering rack will not pull it that far.

I know it's an Ackerman issue, but it's got all stock parts on the front, except for an aluminum pivot bracket. Am I missing something, or is this the way it's supposed to be?

I've got an Exotek rack on my list of upgrades, but I wanted to ask about the rack first.

Thanks.....
you can turn the travel/end point adjustment way up!!. on my DX3C, I ended up being at around 140% travel to get both sides to ground out on the castor block. I actually went back to 130% to try to teach myself to be smoother, i run 17.5 blinky in Stock class. in modified the added steering makes the car really forgiving!

Last edited by AndrewTom; 07-08-2013 at 03:03 PM.
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