XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

stricko

Hi All,

I was hoping somebody could give me some setup tips. I race on an indoor track which has several variations of low/medium grip carpet and some very low grip concrete. I have got my SC working pretty good (TQ all rounds of qualifying and won the A main) but I still think I can improve it. The car rolls almost to the point of traction rolling.

I am happy with the balance of the car, I just think it might be a little easier to drive if the chassis stayed a little flatter.

Here is a video from a hat cam of a Qualifying Heat (My car is the Green truck that the camera follows):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIJw1FuFJ9E

I was thinking to perhaps try some swaybars as I am not currently using any? Just as long as I can keep the balance about the same.

Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I say you go ahead and try the swaybars. I'm running the softest (white, I believe) front and back, and that did reduce the body roll nicely. You can play with the different stiffness bars and see what works the best for you. The Losi swaybar kit isn't too expensive, so it's worth a shot

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

or the 2 hole pistons. they help a lot too!
you can either buy these, they are a direct fit:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Piston-Set

or glue two holes closed and drill the other two holes out with the correct size drill bit.

IMO the assoc. pistons are way easier, $4-install them in your car and test.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Oh yes, +1 to that! I forgot to mention it. I'm also running the Associated pistons.

Stubbs

iTrader: (58)

Geetings all.....just recently upgraded from a XXX-SCT to a mildly upgraded 22SCT that I bought from a local racer. I've got a couple questions....

1. Aside from the kit setup, what is a good starting point for outdoor hard clay track (mix of some blue groove, and loose fluffy outside the race line)?

Most of the tracks where I will run this truck are the usual 1/10 or 1/8th tracks.....somewhat tight and technical, but nothing out of the ordinary. I keep seeing the "casper/dunford set-up". Anyone have a link to this particular setup?

2. When setting the EPA for the steering, I get a strange phenomenon. The inside wheel will not turn far enough to reach the stop....the steering rack moves the tire until the link is parallel to the steering arm on the hub. At that point it can't turn any further, but it's still 3-4mm from hitting the carrier. I can manually push it over center, and make it touch with hardly any effort, but the steering rack will not pull it that far.

I know it's an Ackerman issue, but it's got all stock parts on the front, except for an aluminum pivot bracket. Am I missing something, or is this the way it's supposed to be?

I've got an Exotek rack on my list of upgrades, but I wanted to ask about the rack first.

Thanks.....

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You can find the setup at www.casper-rc.com

This truck has a LOT more steering throw then the XXX-SCT so getting the inside wheel to over center is not all that big a deal and the amount of play you have in the rack.

sapperc

iTrader: (1)

I'm just having no luck with after-market steering sliders. I thought I was okay with the Aluminium slider and housing rack. Seemed to work okay when the track was dry, as long as it was generously lubed with WD-40. Unfortunates, it locked up on the first practice lap before racing today when the track was wet. The AL sl;ider and housing already has some play that was noty there when new. Loose wet dirt / mud from the track gets in the works and grinds it to a hard lock. I had time to rebuild the front end with the stock steering rack. But even then, it just didn't track right all day, and to make matters worse, I kept popping a ball cup off one of the steering links. Once during a heat race and it popped off twice during the A-Main. Guess they are stretched out of shape from the stress of the rack locking up. I'll have to install new ones -- again -- and recheck the whole front end to make sure nothing else is torqued out of shape. Oh well. I'm back to the stock rack. If it wears too fast again, maybe I'll try the Exotek solution. For now, I can wait till I'm sure nothing else needs fixing.

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

I put the Trax Turnbuckles on. Captive... cant pop off. As for the rack...
I WD40 it.
Check Page one of this Thred.

idswass

I'm still loving my Exotek steering rack. I run on a really dusty track that required me to constantly lube and clean the stock style steering rack. I bought mine the day they came out and I haven't touched since. It's nice to not have to worry about when the rack will lock up if I don't have time to clean it between each main. Not cheap but worth every penny.

idswass

And balls never pop off on the Exotek rack either because of the geometry change of the inside balls.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Dang it... I'm going to have to get the Exotek rack I think. I don't have lockup problems with the stock rack, I just really hate the play. Granted, I run the truck pretty hard, but it's still a lot more sloppy than I like. It's especially annoying when trying to get the front camber set, as the slop results in like 4 degrees of difference from one wobble-stop to the other. When you're going for 1 degree of camber, that really sucks.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

+1

+1

You will not regret it one bit!

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

you can turn the travel/end point adjustment way up!!. on my DX3C, I ended up being at around 140% travel to get both sides to ground out on the castor block. I actually went back to 130% to try to teach myself to be smoother, i run 17.5 blinky in Stock class. in modified the added steering makes the car really forgiving!