1LikesTLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
06-29-2013, 05:14 PM
#7621
Tech Apprentice
Where is the best place to check temps on tekin gen 2 motors?the can on mine is cool but hole on the endbell where the shaft is too high. Is this normal? Thanks
06-29-2013, 07:29 PM
#7623
the only time I wouldn't temp the endbell is if it has a plastic cover, like the current viper motors and the tekin gen1.
I always do the can, I actually cut out the little X in the rear motor guard, get a little more air flow and easier to temp the can.
I always do the can, I actually cut out the little X in the rear motor guard, get a little more air flow and easier to temp the can.
06-29-2013, 08:27 PM
#7624
Tech Apprentice
Should the shaft in the hole on endbell b that much higher.it seems that almost 200 no matter what gearing I tried . The can would b 150. I did have a rpm but now I have the torque one . I ran 10 min main with 22/78 on it an it ran good turned fastest laps at end on race but temp n that hole on shaft where 200? I have 25 degree timing on endbell esc n blinky. Tranny is free of binding two .
06-30-2013, 06:44 AM
#7626
^deja vue- I just read about the same thing in the viper thread.
on the viper esc's, the temp cutoff is internal, and it reads roughly 30* to 40* hotter then the can temp will be. learned that lesson the hard way
that is why most set the 'motor temp cutoff' on the viper esc at typically ~220*, at that point the motor is at 180* to 190*ish on the can when it shuts down. some guys even say to disable the cutoff completely.
on the viper esc's, the temp cutoff is internal, and it reads roughly 30* to 40* hotter then the can temp will be. learned that lesson the hard way
that is why most set the 'motor temp cutoff' on the viper esc at typically ~220*, at that point the motor is at 180* to 190*ish on the can when it shuts down. some guys even say to disable the cutoff completely.
06-30-2013, 08:18 PM
#7628
Tech Rookie
With the motor in mid mount do I have to use a Shorty pack or can I use the standard batts? Hate to buy new ones just to run mid motor!
06-30-2013, 09:33 PM
#7630
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ray-Set-TLR-22
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ry-Tray-TLR-22
you could drill to holes in the chassis, you would just need to countersink the belly of the chassis so you can use flat head screws like all the other mounting positions.
07-01-2013, 12:53 AM
#7632
The 22SCT is terrific, best 2wd SCT on the market! But for outdoor loose dirt and dusty conditions the stock plastic steering rack system is definitely the weak link in an otherwise outstanding RC. My first steering rack and housing only lasted about 2 months of light use before it started to bind. Tried the DP delrin rack in a new plastic housing with no joy. So for now I am back to using a new stock system which is already showing wear after one month of light use. As someone else mentioned, its the housing that wears excessively, not the rack. Replacing just the rack is futile. And here's the real kicker. Everything else holds up to outdoor use. Nothing else has worn out or broken in the 6 months I have been racing my 22SCT.
Outdoors in dusty, dirty conditions is really tough on this steering system, even with thorough maintenance between runs. Replacing the rack and housing as needed is certainly an option that works well, but I'd prefer to find a more permanent solution. I am working my way through after-market options from least expensive to most expensive.
I already have the all AL rack and housing ordered, so that is next. The price has dropped by half on that option so I couldn't pass it by. Besides, I still think the rack and housing system is a novel idea and should give long service even outdoors with the right design and materials.
So, I am wondering when you tried the AL rack was it with the stock plastic housing or did you try the all AL after-market option? What lubrication , if any, did you try?
Also, anyone who has used the Exotek steering system in their 22SCT for at least 2 - 3 months, can you comment on your track conditions, whether your use is light to heavy, and compare steering system looseness now to when first installed?
There is no judgement intended here. Trying to get feedback from anyone who, like me, has had issues with the steering system and has tried different ideas for a fix. Thanks!
Outdoors in dusty, dirty conditions is really tough on this steering system, even with thorough maintenance between runs. Replacing the rack and housing as needed is certainly an option that works well, but I'd prefer to find a more permanent solution. I am working my way through after-market options from least expensive to most expensive.
I already have the all AL rack and housing ordered, so that is next. The price has dropped by half on that option so I couldn't pass it by. Besides, I still think the rack and housing system is a novel idea and should give long service even outdoors with the right design and materials. So, I am wondering when you tried the AL rack was it with the stock plastic housing or did you try the all AL after-market option? What lubrication , if any, did you try?
Also, anyone who has used the Exotek steering system in their 22SCT for at least 2 - 3 months, can you comment on your track conditions, whether your use is light to heavy, and compare steering system looseness now to when first installed?
There is no judgement intended here. Trying to get feedback from anyone who, like me, has had issues with the steering system and has tried different ideas for a fix. Thanks!
07-01-2013, 04:46 AM
#7633
I have 2 Rack in 22 B and 22 T zero issues
Ok sry for the delay. I typed this last night only to fall asleep at the keyboard lol. Anyway when i first got my 22b the stock rack was decent experienced same as you. So i noticed TLR aluminum slider and picked it up. The problem with this was binding more and more so i decided to make an aluminum housing. Which is how this all came about i ran for a whole yr and made few for local friends. I had it lock up on me once in some pretty harsh environments. Mainly due to no maintenance. I really like the exotek design also so i would not say mine is better than that. But i have not tried so cant say but looks like some folks here find it to be very nice. Im going to say this everyone complains at price but i also know how many pieces and what they have to machine so the price is fair for that to be made. I hope you like your aluminum slider and currently working on making one of the pieces brass. Not sure it will perform any better but i always like a little extra weight up front but i run only mod. Hope this helps.
( TLR) next you get the durability and strength with zero binding.
Then placement of added weight is Optimal. And for the price you have enough left over for some Tires... or Beer.
Click on the pic to make bigger!
Last edited by XXXDad; 07-01-2013 at 12:41 PM.
07-01-2013, 09:00 AM
#7634
and if your esc wont fit between the battery and servo, you can utilize the rear motor esc shelf. I trimmed the two forward legs off and used the rear 2 mounting holes. It works great. This truck is dialed with the mid-motor setup. Vary balanced and really carves the turns.
07-01-2013, 10:21 AM
#7635
Should the shaft in the hole on endbell b that much higher.it seems that almost 200 no matter what gearing I tried . The can would b 150. I did have a rpm but now I have the torque one . I ran 10 min main with 22/78 on it an it ran good turned fastest laps at end on race but temp n that hole on shaft where 200? I have 25 degree timing on endbell esc n blinky. Tranny is free of binding two .
10 minutes is a full pull in my eyes so temps at the 190f range are typical.