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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 06-02-2013, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I think both of you are right! I moved my shorty forward one location, then two locations, and compared runs. It's definitely better the further forward it is! Right now I have it so that the rear of the shorty is just barely held in place by the bottom parts of the rear battery bracket. Do you guys move yours even further forward, to the front-most location? I ask since in that location, the battery will have no plastic parts holding it in the back. How do you secure it? Just one velcro strap?
that sounds about where mine is, I will have to look tonnight.
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:33 PM
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I just want to say that I raced my 22SCT for the first time this Saturday and it was amazing. It is by far the best 2wd vehicle I have ever driven. I used to race an SC10 but this truck blows it out of the water. The only thing about this truck that I find a bit overkill is the enormous amount of steering. But that is because I didn't have much time to practice and experiment with the set up. I think I just need to move the battery back a bit and that will fix it.
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Old 06-02-2013, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Ggthedouble View Post
I just want to say that I raced my 22SCT for the first time this Saturday and it was amazing. It is by far the best 2wd vehicle I have ever driven. I used to race an SC10 but this truck blows it out of the water. The only thing about this truck that I find a bit overkill is the enormous amount of steering. But that is because I didn't have much time to practice and experiment with the set up. I think I just need to move the battery back a bit and that will fix it.
glad to here your happy!
it is one heck uva truck, especially once its dialed!
definitely move the battery back, I ended up at 2 pads back compared to four pads back... then I switched to a shorty
3 pads back was good, but when I went to 2 pads back, I found i was spoiled by the amount of steering and went to green front.


TLR- Are we going to see a Low Frequency Truck Front spring set?
I'll buy 2!
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:24 PM
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Thanks AndrewTom. I don't know why but a couple of the people at my track take a foam spacer and tape 48 grams of stick weight to it. It kind of looks like this.
_
..
..
..
_
The underscores being the foam pads and the periods being the weights and put them underneath the ESC tray. It comes out to just where the deepest point of the rim of the esc mound protrudes. IF that makes sense. then they move the battery all the way up. They tell me they do it for better rear traction. I bought the car off of my track owner and he had the same thing so I just ran it like that this weekend. I did not get the chance to practice without the piece. I think it is overkill but if anybody else out there runs their 22SCT this way please tell me how it works for you.
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:41 AM
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Got to use the low freq rear springs this past weekend on a 1/8 scale type track that got pretty bumpy and the truck handled great the rear end was planted. The truck stayed flat and was not as twitchy in the bumps VERY NICE. We ran white in the rear.
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
Caspers set up is 1.5x2 front and 1.6x2 rear.

I did a little homework on the avid slipper, the stock slipper has more surface area. if you ask me, you are better off switching to the AE VTS, it has huge surface area, but it doesn't fit under the stock gear cover. ScottKelly posted some pictures earlier on how he modded his stock cover with some shims.

I plan to shoot RPM an email this week and see if they could work on an accessory gear cover that will accept the VTS slipper
The surface area isn't the main factor in a slipper. The AVID slipper is the only design that spreads out the work over 4 surafaces (like the VTS) but it does not have a huge surface area because the slipper works based on the surface pressure on the pads. It was a choice, not a mistake to make it small and light but to have the right balance of surface area so that the clutch can slip when you need it. Thus, the AVID slipper is able to transmit power without being locked solid for 90% of the track like a normal clutch.

Think of it this way, if your 2-plate kit slipper can make your car do a wheelie, then it can transmit enough power....but why does it melt down and wear out? The old school design makes the pads and plates do too much work and eventually the material breaks down. The AVID is the longest lasting slipper on the market if properly set.
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:09 PM
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Just picked up this truck and will be running on a super high bite outdoor track. Orange barcodes are the tire of choice. Should I start with the standard high bite setup off the TLR site or is there something better?
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Just picked up this truck and will be running on a super high bite outdoor track. Orange barcodes are the tire of choice. Should I start with the standard high bite setup off the TLR site or is there something better?
Casper/Dunford set up is all the rage and seems to work well everywhere. Remember you will most likly need to change a few things as you drive but for the most part it is a great setup to start with.
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:00 PM
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where can i find a setup pool for this side of the states? east coast boys need love too. LOL. i'm located in the greensboro area of north carolina
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
Casper/Dunford set up is all the rage and seems to work well everywhere. Remember you will most likly need to change a few things as you drive but for the most part it is a great setup to start with.
Thanks for the info. Is that setup on the TLR site or in this thread?
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Thanks for the info. Is that setup on the TLR site or in this thread?
www.casper-rc.com
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
The surface area isn't the main factor in a slipper. The AVID slipper is the only design that spreads out the work over 4 surafaces (like the VTS) but it does not have a huge surface area because the slipper works based on the surface pressure on the pads. It was a choice, not a mistake to make it small and light but to have the right balance of surface area so that the clutch can slip when you need it. Thus, the AVID slipper is able to transmit power without being locked solid for 90% of the track like a normal clutch.

Think of it this way, if your 2-plate kit slipper can make your car do a wheelie, then it can transmit enough power....but why does it melt down and wear out? The old school design makes the pads and plates do too much work and eventually the material breaks down. The AVID is the longest lasting slipper on the market if properly set.
thank you for explaining, I think I see what you are saying.
I always thought of the slipper as being like the brakes on a car or motor cycle. the larger, the more surface area then therefore more braking power and/or weight the brakes can handle.
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by nomaak View Post
where can i find a setup pool for this side of the states? east coast boys need love too. LOL. i'm located in the greensboro area of north carolina
Caspers set-up seems to work really well for a lot of people; i havent had time to try it out on my local track, but once I am out of school, I am definitely going to spend a few days at my local track and give it a go.
check out www.PetitRc.com, there are quite a few set-ups listed.

Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
Casper/Dunford set up is all the rage and seems to work well everywhere. Remember you will most likly need to change a few things as you drive but for the most part it is a great setup to start with.
just my personal preference,
I recommend putting at least a pack through the truck with Kit Setup.
that way you have a baseline, and then really learn how the Casper/Dunford or what cahnges you make to the set up changes the trucks characteristics.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I think both of you are right! I moved my shorty forward one location, then two locations, and compared runs. It's definitely better the further forward it is! Right now I have it so that the rear of the shorty is just barely held in place by the bottom parts of the rear battery bracket. Do you guys move yours even further forward, to the front-most location? I ask since in that location, the battery will have no plastic parts holding it in the back. How do you secure it? Just one velcro strap?
I'm using the HR carbon fiber strap system, but you could secure it with one Velcro strap in the front-most slots.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:59 AM
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Ok sorry for another slipper /diff question on this thread. I just built a bfast in the sct super smooth so far. Did the flick test hold one tire flick the othe it rotates one turn sometime 1-1/4 turn now I'm setting the slipper. Hold both tire and get the fronts to wheelie about 3-4 in... Well that's what I did w my mod motor cars this is 17.5 blinky w 26/78. I backed the slipper off a lot just so I don't bark the diff. Now I'm slowly tightening it. I haven't got it to wheelie yet Just want to make sure w the 17.5 it will before I do bark the diff. So long story short should I be able to get it to wheelie w hold the back two wheels w this motor and gearing.
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