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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 05-20-2013, 11:41 AM
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Edited out. Not needed. Sorry.

Last edited by sapperc; 05-21-2013 at 05:55 PM. Reason: unnecessary
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by okcwheels17 View Post
I'm goin to weigh in on this motor tranny issue. The castle 3800 is not too much for this truck I've ran it in both my sc10 2wd and currently run it in xxxsct and have had not one issue except for normal wear and tear and as far as my opinion I believe the tranny is the weakest point on this truck..
I've had a 5000kv motor in mine for 6 months and not a problem. It still doesn't change the fact that the truck, any 2wd truck, is not designed to use 4-pole motors that are intended for use in 4wd trucks.
But if you don't own a 22SCT then how can you weigh in at all?
It has the.same basic tranny as the xxxsct you mentioned.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by okcwheels17 View Post
I'm goin to weigh in on this motor tranny issue. The castle 3800 is not too much for this truck I've ran it in both my sc10 2wd and currently run it in xxxsct and have had not one issue except for normal wear and tear and as far as my opinion I believe the tranny is the weakest point on this truck..
I agree the motor is okay to run if youre willing to maintain and adjust the drive train daily which you apparently know how to do, but most others have no clue how to do. I dont think the trans is an issue for this platform, it is perfectly suited IMO. The problems are coming from people that don't understand that they are racing a scaled down version of a real 800 horse power race truck. I can certainly tell anyone that a high horse power real race car or truck is not just parked in the garage until the next race day.
Yes you can run the motor, just be willing to sacrifice your clutch and wear out parts quicker. If not then go buy more parts.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:36 PM
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Edited out. Not needed. Sorry.

Last edited by sapperc; 05-21-2013 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by manfromclio View Post
I'm curious what the 3mm spacer did for you on the hub?
Sorry I misread that. Head cold!

3mm on the hub gives more camber gain and helped with a little better side bite.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:57 PM
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okay, I'm beginning to get a little confused
i am looking at the casper/dunford set up, and in the rear camber link, it says 2mm under the inner ball stud and 2mm under the outer ball stud.
Does this have a different roll center then compared to say having 1mm outer and 1mm inner OR 3mm outer and 3mm inner? or am i over-thinking this.

I do understand the effect of adding a shim under one ball stud versus the other, but both is starting to puzzle me a bit.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
Actually, if anyone cares to take a look on the Castle site their 3800kv 4-pole motor is recommended for 2wd SCT. Like I said, set it for the application and intended use and it works fine. More poles means a more efficient motor. This motor runs very cool on 2s lipo. Got nothing to do with 1:1 horsepower. Probably a better comparison would be compression. Higher compression gets you higher torque. The torque in electric motors is settable and manageable with several ESC settings, the simplest of which is punch control. I have used this motor successfully in a couple of 2wd SCTs. Set the ESC and gear it for your needs, just like any other motors.
I run a 4-pole motor in my 22T for the reasons stated above and have destroyed my share of idler gears. The same motor used to be in my AE truck with some idler gears losing teeth as well. What I've found is that the AE transmission seems a bit more tolerant to a clutch setting that isn't quite right. The Losi, OTOH, isn't as forgiving. After much agony, I believe it is now set properly as I am not stripping gears and am getting the performance I expect. So, it can be done (carefully), and the performance is quite good.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Shorties should help for sure. Be sure to reset your ride height, and you might need to soften the rear suspension for the reduced weight.
sorry, i just read that. I ran on friday and sunday with the shorty. I originally had 25 wt (associated shock oil) front and 27.5 rear and the rear felt a little stiff. it was cold, but i didn't have enough time to go down on oil or anything due the steering return spring in my radio breaking. took me and hour to fix that missed the 2nd round of qualifying, barely got it fixed in time for the mains. i went to 25 all around in prep for sunday, and it felt better. the track was a bit more chewed up (rough) and loose, and it felt better. its definitely something I'll be tinkering with
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
okay, I'm beginning to get a little confused
i am looking at the casper/dunford set up, and in the rear camber link, it says 2mm under the inner ball stud and 2mm under the outer ball stud.
Does this have a different roll center then compared to say having 1mm outer and 1mm inner OR 3mm outer and 3mm inner? or am i over-thinking this.

I do understand the effect of adding a shim under one ball stud versus the other, but both is starting to puzzle me a bit.
from: http://www.hpiracing.com/tuning/chap_7.htm

As for the Upper Linkís position, if it is parallel to the ground (or close to parallel) it will allow the roll to come very predictably and smooth.*The car will feel very stable and will roll quite a bit.*An Upper Link that is angled down will produce more initial grip but allow the car to roll less.*The car can transition faster with the link angled.*It is important to note though the there are two roll centers in your car, one front and one rear.*You want to keep these two roll centers working pretty close together to keep the car balanced.*If you donít, the car will feel very unpredictable and unstable.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
Actually, if anyone cares to take a look on the Castle site their 3800kv 4-pole motor is recommended for 2wd SCT. Like I said, set it for the application and intended use and it works fine. More poles means a more efficient motor. This motor runs very cool on 2s lipo. Got nothing to do with 1:1 horsepower. Probably a better comparison would be compression. Higher compression gets you higher torque. The torque in electric motors is settable and manageable with several ESC settings, the simplest of which is punch control. I have used this motor successfully in a couple of 2wd SCTs. Set the ESC and gear it for your needs, just like any other motors.
I don't know about "recommended" because I would think that would for Losi to advise, but their page does say "50% more torque" which just means trouble to me on a 2wd. If you knew what you were doing, I suppose you could get away with it. But if you're blowing up trannies, that's not the cars fault. It means he didn't know what he was doing. He is racing dirt oval, all those guys do is hammer the throttle, the drivetrain wasn't designed for that either. Next week it'll be something else.

I know a guy, he's had every sct on the market, and blown up a idler in every one. But he demands on running his slipper too tight, and lands jumps.with the throttle pegged. Is that the car's fault or the mechanic's?
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
okay, I'm beginning to get a little confused
i am looking at the casper/dunford set up, and in the rear camber link, it says 2mm under the inner ball stud and 2mm under the outer ball stud.
Does this have a different roll center then compared to say having 1mm outer and 1mm inner OR 3mm outer and 3mm inner? or am i over-thinking this.

I do understand the effect of adding a shim under one ball stud versus the other, but both is starting to puzzle me a bit.
Haha. You and me both! Raising the whole link equally puzzles me as well.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by manfromclio View Post
Haha. You and me both! Raising the whole link equally puzzles me as well.
It's simple. If you just raise the inside of the link, you not only adjust roll center but also the angle of the link. Raising the outside as well helps you maintain the same angle.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
sorry to double post, but I appreciate all the updates you have taken the time to give us on that rack. only issue is the stock plastic racks are on backorder i've order several from my lhs a couple weeks ago, still havent come in.
I need to make it up to that lompoc track sometime, been running down in camarillo for a year or so now, would like to start branching out to some different tracks!
Yes, I got my order in just in time I realize that Lompoc isn't exactly a destination hot-spot, but out of town racers are always welcome! Come on up if you get a chance.

Originally Posted by ufoDziner View Post
I run a 4-pole motor in my 22T for the reasons stated above and have destroyed my share of idler gears. The same motor used to be in my AE truck with some idler gears losing teeth as well. What I've found is that the AE transmission seems a bit more tolerant to a clutch setting that isn't quite right. The Losi, OTOH, isn't as forgiving. After much agony, I believe it is now set properly as I am not stripping gears and am getting the performance I expect. So, it can be done (carefully), and the performance is quite good.
I agree, proper slipper setting for the local conditions is critical.

Last edited by sapperc; 05-21-2013 at 05:53 PM. Reason: unnecessary response
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by manfromclio View Post
Haha. You and me both! Raising the whole link equally puzzles me as well.
Yes raising and lowering the link has an effect.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Graphite07 View Post
where did i post saying i over tighten the their gearbox motor plate screws?

i never over tighten the screws.
Everyone could have seen it, post #5519
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