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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 05-16-2013, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Sapperc, you've been great at giving feedback on this rack. I'm gonna add part of your post to the front page on the DP steering rack so people know the truth and work needed to make it work. At this point it doesn't sound like something I personally would want to try. I thought about taking the DP rack out completely, but then someone might stumble across it and not have the info avail to them. I'm not saying it can't work as you're exhibiting, but it does sound like it's much more work than most people would be want and may frustrate people. Thanks for your feedback!
Thanks. I didn't intend to slam Driven Productions. My comments were meant to be matter-of-fact about my experience. For balance, you might want to sticky Casper's more favorable review, too.
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
Thanks. I didn't intend to slam Driven Productions. My comments were meant to be matter-of-fact about my experience. For balance, you might want to sticky Casper's more favorable review, too.
No I kind of agreed with you. It is not a drop in part. It needs a little "massaging" to work right but once that is done it works fine. Not everyone is ok with "making parts fit" these days. With the fit and finish of todays cars people are not used to having to do that much.
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:34 PM
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I would love to hear the thoughts from you guys if you choose the try the Exotek solution. However, I replace the rack on my truck every 3 months and I never notice the difference after it is done. Sure, there is less slop but I can't tell the difference on the track. Should it make a difference or are we too obsessed with having no slop?

Last edited by TMS-99; 05-16-2013 at 03:35 PM. Reason: spelling mistakes
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:47 PM
  #7144  
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Originally Posted by THE DOC View Post
I replaced my steering rack with the (Driven Productions RC Delrin Steering Rack) I did have a great A Main race till the rack started to bind up and not let me steer, its only been on for 2 heats than the Main. Even sitting on the bench it binds bad now, has anyone had this problem with this rack? I didn't replace the outer rack housing though I wonder if I should have, it has a pretty good amount of rocking still in it.

Do you think a new outer housing would fix it or should I just go back to stock one which I would rather not do.
i had that problem also.Nothing a little graphite powder or some type of wax lube didnt cure.
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:28 PM
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I sanded mine on the back side just enough to let it slide and I do clean my truck after each race but I don't think I want to run it any more. It sounds like too much maintenance and its too unpredictable. Maybe if I was to run on a indoor track but I run on a loamy out door track and we get some mud and dirt in the chassis after watering. The Exotek will do the job perfect but at $70.00?
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
No I kind of agreed with you. It is not a drop in part. It needs a little "massaging" to work right but once that is done it works fine. Not everyone is ok with "making parts fit" these days. With the fit and finish of todays cars people are not used to having to do that much.
Isn't that part of the problem today?
So many new drivers with rtr-itus, they have these major complaints about little things that a little "massaging" and self reliance will cure. What happened with being hobbyists and having to sort little things out? Even the TLR alloy rack needed some massaging, and I had mine smooth as silk in 10 minutes or less.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TMS-99 View Post
I would love to hear the thoughts from you guys if you choose the try the Exotek solution. However, I replace the rack on my truck every 3 months and I never notice the difference after it is done. Sure, there is less slop but I can't tell the difference on the track. Should it make a difference or are we too obsessed with having no slop?
My experience has been similar to yours. I did not notice any difference in handling as the steering rack got looser until it was so loose that it caused occasional binding. For me, that happened after about 3 1/2 months of light use.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jonzee View Post
Isn't that part of the problem today?
So many new drivers with rtr-itus, they have these major complaints about little things that a little "massaging" and self reliance will cure. What happened with being hobbyists and having to sort little things out? Even the TLR alloy rack needed some massaging, and I had mine smooth as silk in 10 minutes or less.
+1. there seems to be a lot of heat these days from people whining about tolerances and what not. I'm a gearhead, I flipping love taking these things apart and shimming parts, and trying new things. I can't say the same about others; I'm 17 and most of the kids I know of barely even know righty tighty. I am ashamed of my generation, all the majority know how to do is change the batteries in the tv remote, play video games, and press send on there cell phone.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:06 PM
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Casper;12159875]No I kind of agreed with you. It is not a drop in part. It needs a little "massaging" to work right but once that is done it works fine. Not everyone is ok with "making parts fit" these days. With the fit and finish of todays cars people are not used to having to do that much.[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by jonzee View Post
Isn't that part of the problem today?
So many new drivers with rtr-itus, they have these major complaints about little things that a little "massaging" and self reliance will cure. What happened with being hobbyists and having to sort little things out? Even the TLR alloy rack needed some massaging, and I had mine smooth as silk in 10 minutes or less.
Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
+1. there seems to be a lot of heat these days from people whining about tolerances and what not. I'm a gearhead, I flipping love taking these things apart and shimming parts, and trying new things. I can't say the same about others; I'm 17 and most of the kids I know of barely even know righty tighty. I am ashamed of my generation, all the majority know how to do is change the batteries in the tv remote, play video games, and press send on there cell phone.
You guys have very valet points in many cases. In my case If you saw builds I do on RCC or what comes out of my shop you would know my talent and with my back ground in the 1.1 world I have no problem hand building things. A lot of people do bitch and yes we have to put up with it. And some just don't understand Lol... There are people out there and at my track that say that all the play in the steering is ok. Lets get real here! I don't build anything in my 1.1 shop or my rc's that have play like this and no one is going to tell me its ok. It affects the steering of any vehicle..... I'm not saying that the parts being made are junk or made wrong they just don't perform to my standards. I love this sport and have a ton of vehicles, scalers, racers and bashers and I just think with the amount of money we spend on our rc's that some of the problems should already be worked out before they release them. It doesn't take me very long to test my 1.1 stuff that we mfg to make sure it works right. I'm not trying to bag on any mfg's just stating how I feel about building anything, toys or 1.1 rigs.

If I find free the money'm going to try the Exotek system.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TMS-99 View Post
I would love to hear the thoughts from you guys if you choose the try the Exotek solution. However, I replace the rack on my truck every 3 months and I never notice the difference after it is done. Sure, there is less slop but I can't tell the difference on the track. Should it make a difference or are we too obsessed with having no slop?
I've got 9 months on my original steering rack. It's loose and sloppy but it works great. In fact early on I found it bound up every once in a while, but since it's nice and sloppy now - no issues. That said, it'll probably break tomorrow night.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:08 PM
  #7151  
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Originally Posted by jonzee View Post
Isn't that part of the problem today?
You mean poor manufacturing standards, such that parts don't fit like they should?

Originally Posted by jonzee View Post
So many new drivers with rtr-itus, they have these major complaints about little things that a little "massaging" and self reliance will cure. What happened with being hobbyists and having to sort little things out? Even the TLR alloy rack needed some massaging, and I had mine smooth as silk in 10 minutes or less.
Self reliance is no substitute for parts that should fit from the manufacturer of said part. If they're not going to fit properly they should be advertised as such.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:59 PM
  #7152  
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Well I got the bell crank system coming. The original was ok except for one crash where I broke it. But I always see white dust on the slider so I know it is wearing. Ball bearing cranks are a tried and trued method.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:02 PM
  #7153  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I have run those and all it really takes is some extra sanding off the back side. After that it seems to work pretty well and last a little longer then stock. I never had a binding issue after I got it sanded down a little and working smooth.
Casper, I'm wondering if these work better in cleaner environments such as indoor clay tracks like we primarily run at. It would make sense that the outdoor dusty dry tracks may require a bit more maintenance.
Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
Thanks. I didn't intend to slam Driven Productions. My comments were meant to be matter-of-fact about my experience. For balance, you might want to sticky Casper's more favorable review, too.
I didn't think you were slamming them, I thought you were giving an honest unbiased opinion. But I can see how someone may think you were slamming them. I'll just make a note that some modification may be needed and leave the part of your post about how you modified it to work. But in all actuality, to me personally, if I buy a part made for my particular vehicle, I would want it to work correctly without modification. Now if I was trying to modify a part made for another vehicle to work on mine, then sure, I can see the need to make a few modifications. This particular DP part obviously isn't a plug and play option. I'm not saying it's a bad option, but it does seem to need some "massaging" and additional maintenance. People should be aware of that when making their decision to purchase this particular part. Maybe this type of feedback will help other companies whether big or small to make sure they bring finished products when they bring it to market. Or at least stipulate that some modification may be necessary for proper fitment. Most people in this hobby aren't afraid to tinker or mod things, but direction with how and what would be nice if it's needed. I personally as well as many here, appreciate your candor and experience being shared with us.
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
No I kind of agreed with you. It is not a drop in part. It needs a little "massaging" to work right but once that is done it works fine. Not everyone is ok with "making parts fit" these days. With the fit and finish of todays cars people are not used to having to do that much.
We're quite lucky to have RC cars of such high quality nowadays! The tolerances have gotten quite amazing! one reason that I speculate for this is that most manufacturers have gone to metric sizes which seem to be measured in smaller increments. That's completely speculative on my part, but measuring things in mm's rather than fractions of inches seems to be more reliable for tight tolerances.


Originally Posted by Roken View Post
Well I got the bell crank system coming. The original was ok except for one crash where I broke it. But I always see white dust on the slider so I know it is wearing. Ball bearing cranks are a tried and trued method.
Please let us know how it works out for you! I know a lot of people are interested. It's an expensive system, but let's face it, with the amount we spend on these cars, another $70 isn't going to keep most of us from getting it if we know it works very well.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:19 PM
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Just curious if anyone here is running the Aluminum idler gear yet ( TLR332009)? they've been out for a bit now and nobody has mentioned much about rebuilding their diff's using one. I keep forgetting to place it on my orders and unfortunately none of the shops at the tracks or hobby shops I go to carry it. If you're using one, what's your impressions of it? I need to rebuild my diff and I want to put one in at the time of the diff rebuild.
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:46 AM
  #7155  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
+1. there seems to be a lot of heat these days from people whining about tolerances and what not. I'm a gearhead, I flipping love taking these things apart and shimming parts, and trying new things. I can't say the same about others; I'm 17 and most of the kids I know of barely even know righty tighty. I am ashamed of my generation, all the majority know how to do is change the batteries in the tv remote, play video games, and press send on there cell phone.
I'm duly impressed to see a comment like that from a 17 yr old- I'm a 51 yr old gearhead who likes to make things work and feel much the same as you do about "kids" these days, lol. Some of the "kids" I know are in their 30's and 40's, though...
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