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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 05-15-2013, 06:44 AM
  #7126  
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I put the MIP driveshafts in my truck and love them. No worries about pins coming out and no slop in them yet.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:03 AM
  #7127  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
good thing this is a thread dedicated to a 2wd truck.
).
The point is - things like Anti-squat or caster or camber always do the same thing, but their application to any particular vehicle might be different.

It's important to understand how these things work universally. That way you can learn how to put a setup on a car or make changes to a setup to adjust to a particular track.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:37 AM
  #7128  
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Ok, so check out this crazy situation...

There is a double jump at my local indoor clay track that I was having a hell of a time clearing. Unless I got a superbly perfect line, I would always smack either the top or high-back-side of the second hump, flipping me over. This is with a 17.5 motor running blinky. Everyone else with 17.5s seemed to clear the double fine, but had trouble clearing it with my truck. I figured it was weight, as my truck is a little heavy, but...

... here comes the crazy part. In order to try to shave off some weight, I removed the rear bumper side bump stops and the mud flaps, as well as the side impact protectors from the body. All in all about 2oz. Suddenly, the truck started clearing the double jump with no problem, even if I kinda screwed up my driving line.

I really don't think 2oz could make that much difference, so my theory is the mud flaps! I think they were adding significant drag to the truck in the air, almost like small drag chutes. Sounds crazy, I know, but the results are clearly there.

In any case, my 22SCT can now fly properly
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:49 AM
  #7129  
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Ok, so check out this crazy situation...

There is a double jump at my local indoor clay track that I was having a hell of a time clearing. Unless I got a superbly perfect line, I would always smack either the top or high-back-side of the second hump, flipping me over. This is with a 17.5 motor running blinky. Everyone else with 17.5s seemed to clear the double fine, but had trouble clearing it with my truck. I figured it was weight, as my truck is a little heavy, but...

... here comes the crazy part. In order to try to shave off some weight, I removed the rear bumper side bump stops and the mud flaps, as well as the side impact protectors from the body. All in all about 2oz. Suddenly, the truck started clearing the double jump with no problem, even if I kinda screwed up my driving line.

I really don't think 2oz could make that much difference, so my theory is the mud flaps! I think they were adding significant drag to the truck in the air, almost like small drag chutes. Sounds crazy, I know, but the results are clearly there.

In any case, my 22SCT can now fly properly
2 oz is a lot. That is 56 grams or 8 squares of add on lead.

I don't think it was an aero thing with the mud flaps causing resistance but they could have been dragging on take off?
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:12 PM
  #7130  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
2 oz is a lot. That is 56 grams or 8 squares of add on lead.

I don't think it was an aero thing with the mud flaps causing resistance but they could have been dragging on take off?
having them drag behind would make the most sense to me, but wow. 2 oz is a lot of weight just existing on the truck!!!
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:41 PM
  #7131  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
having them drag behind would make the most sense to me, but wow. 2 oz is a lot of weight just existing on the truck!!!
Every little bit helps!
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:45 PM
  #7132  
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I replaced my steering rack with the (Driven Productions RC Delrin Steering Rack) I did have a great A Main race till the rack started to bind up and not let me steer, its only been on for 2 heats than the Main. Even sitting on the bench it binds bad now, has anyone had this problem with this rack? I didn't replace the outer rack housing though I wonder if I should have, it has a pretty good amount of rocking still in it.

Do you think a new outer housing would fix it or should I just go back to stock one which I would rather not do.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:17 PM
  #7133  
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Originally Posted by THE DOC View Post
I replaced my steering rack with the (Driven Productions RC Delrin Steering Rack) I did have a great A Main race till the rack started to bind up and not let me steer, its only been on for 2 heats than the Main. Even sitting on the bench it binds bad now, has anyone had this problem with this rack? I didn't replace the outer rack housing though I wonder if I should have, it has a pretty good amount of rocking still in it.

Do you think a new outer housing would fix it or should I just go back to stock one which I would rather not do.
I'm trying the DP steering rack, also. I honed it to fit a new housing so that the fit was very smooth. Did not work well in my old worn housing. Same binding issues. Even in the new housing it requires maintenance after every run or it binds: Blowing out and brushing all dust and dirt away and copious amounts of dry lube. Graphite powder works, but I prefer a dry film lubricant. Helps repel dust and moisture. Very smooth and a good fit with very little play, but it's a lot of work.

Not sure its worth the effort even if it lasts longer. I'll probably look for another solution.

Get a new housing, and keep it clean. Good luck!
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:29 PM
  #7134  
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Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
I'm trying the DP steering rack, also. I honed it to fit a new housing so that the fit was very smooth. Did not work well in my old worn housing. Same binding issues. Even in the new housing it requires maintenance after every run or it binds: Blowing out and brushing all dust and dirt away and copious amounts of dry lube. Graphite powder works, but I prefer a dry film lubricant. Helps repel dust and moisture. Very smooth and a good fit with very little play, but it's a lot of work.

Not sure its worth the effort even if it lasts longer. I'll probably look for another solution.

Get a new housing, and keep it clean. Good luck!
Wow..if its that much work to keep it working, forget it. I run on a out door track and I don't always have the much time between heats.

Thanks.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:29 PM
  #7135  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Every little bit helps!
Definitely! just got my shorty packs today, can't wait to put this thing on the track. just driving in front of my house, I can tell there is a difference, going from a 5900 60c to a 4200 20c shorty and it feels like a different truck, about the same punch. cant wait to test my 4600 45c shortys!
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:41 PM
  #7136  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Guys the hudy guide is amazing and a great reference but 4wd and 2wd cars don't always react the same way to the same changes due to the dymanics of the front tires pulling the car through a corner. Be careful when referencing this when it comes to a 2wd car. This is a GREAT guide for any 4wd vehicle though.
Casper, what it your opinion is a good 2wd reference guide?
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:35 AM
  #7137  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
Definitely! just got my shorty packs today, can't wait to put this thing on the track. just driving in front of my house, I can tell there is a difference, going from a 5900 60c to a 4200 20c shorty and it feels like a different truck, about the same punch. cant wait to test my 4600 45c shortys!
Shorties should help for sure. Be sure to reset your ride height, and you might need to soften the rear suspension for the reduced weight.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:52 AM
  #7138  
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Originally Posted by sapperc View Post
I'm trying the DP steering rack, also. I honed it to fit a new housing so that the fit was very smooth. Did not work well in my old worn housing. Same binding issues. Even in the new housing it requires maintenance after every run or it binds: Blowing out and brushing all dust and dirt away and copious amounts of dry lube. Graphite powder works, but I prefer a dry film lubricant. Helps repel dust and moisture. Very smooth and a good fit with very little play, but it's a lot of work.

Not sure its worth the effort even if it lasts longer. I'll probably look for another solution.

Get a new housing, and keep it clean. Good luck!
Sapperc, you've been great at giving feedback on this rack. I'm gonna add part of your post to the front page on the DP steering rack so people know the truth and work needed to make it work. At this point it doesn't sound like something I personally would want to try. I thought about taking the DP rack out completely, but then someone might stumble across it and not have the info avail to them. I'm not saying it can't work as you're exhibiting, but it does sound like it's much more work than most people would be want and may frustrate people. Thanks for your feedback!
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:13 AM
  #7139  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Sapperc, you've been great at giving feedback on this rack. I'm gonna add part of your post to the front page on the DP steering rack so people know the truth and work needed to make it work. At this point it doesn't sound like something I personally would want to try. I thought about taking the DP rack out completely, but then someone might stumble across it and not have the info avail to them. I'm not saying it can't work as you're exhibiting, but it does sound like it's much more work than most people would be want and may frustrate people. Thanks for your feedback!
I have run those and all it really takes is some extra sanding off the back side. After that it seems to work pretty well and last a little longer then stock. I never had a binding issue after I got it sanded down a little and working smooth.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I have run those and all it really takes is some extra sanding off the back side. After that it seems to work pretty well and last a little longer then stock. I never had a binding issue after I got it sanded down a little and working smooth.
The rack and housing system is going to have friction by design, but I have it fitted so that there is no notable resistance. For all intents and purposes it moves freely in the housing.

Still, the Driven Productions rack does tend to bind occasionally without added dry lubricant in my particular application and use. I think that may due to not having grooves on the back side like the stock rack. That probably creates a larger contact patch with the housing and leaves no where for dust to go to get out of the way. If I cut it down thinner, there would be more play in the steering, which I don't want. A better-fitting, longer lasting rack is what I'm after.

I run outdoors in a very dusty environment, which adds to the potential for binding. I hope the tendency to bind will fall off as the rack and housing wear-in together. Time will tell.

My intent is not to discourage anyone from trying the Driven Productions steering rack. The DP rack works, but as with everything, there are trade-offs. I'm just relaying my experience.

Last edited by sapperc; 05-16-2013 at 02:25 PM. Reason: grammar
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