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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 04-11-2013, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lewi007 View Post
ANyone have any advice on a different wheel other than the TLR7011? Two straight weeks I stripped a wheel. I do run the .75 wheel hexes so I know I am losing some 'meat & potatoes' compared to the stock hexes. After stripping the first one I always ensure my nutz are tight (can I say that?) so I am curious if a more robust wheel exists? Thanks.

P.S. Casper/Dun clay setup was run for the first time tonight and my lap times are more consistent, Haven't best my fast time yet but I'm still learning to drive the setup, thanks!
i cannot imagine stripping the wheel hexes. are you using the serrated locknuts??? if the lock nut backs off, then it could allow the wheel to whobble on the hex.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:42 PM
  #6872  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
i cannot imagine stripping the wheel hexes. are you using the serrated locknuts??? if the lock nut backs off, then it could allow the wheel to whobble on the hex.
+1

You can also add a drop of Loctite to the threads before applying the nut. I personally do this on all my 22 cars and I don't use serrated locknuts. Never stripped a wheel or had on come off either. We run the TLR wheels and the JConcepts wheels.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:46 PM
  #6873  
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Ok, one more question

I've torn down the used 22SCT I bought and am now putting it back together. It looks like some of the wheel bearings may need replacing. I don't know if these are the ones that came with the kit originally, but most are the brown-rubber-sealed Losi heavy duty looking ones. So, if I do in fact have to replace them, would you guys go with the same HD ones? I ask since Fast Eddy has a whole kit: http://www.fasteddybearings.com/team...d-bearing-kit/

Thoughts?
I do recommend the HD bearings for the rear hubs. Those get a lot of abuse and the HD ones do hold up better then most std bearings.

Originally Posted by lewi007 View Post
ANyone have any advice on a different wheel other than the TLR7011? Two straight weeks I stripped a wheel. I do run the .75 wheel hexes so I know I am losing some 'meat & potatoes' compared to the stock hexes. After stripping the first one I always ensure my nutz are tight (can I say that?) so I am curious if a more robust wheel exists? Thanks.

P.S. Casper/Dun clay setup was run for the first time tonight and my lap times are more consistent, Haven't best my fast time yet but I'm still learning to drive the setup, thanks!
Consistency normally wins over a fast lap. Granted consistent fast laps usually beats slow consistent laps! LOL

My point is I usually don't worry too much about a single fast lap as I do in being able to consistently run competitive laps for a whole race.
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:33 PM
  #6874  
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Originally Posted by lewi007 View Post
ANyone have any advice on a different wheel other than the TLR7011? Two straight weeks I stripped a wheel. I do run the .75 wheel hexes so I know I am losing some 'meat & potatoes' compared to the stock hexes. After stripping the first one I always ensure my nutz are tight (can I say that?) so I am curious if a more robust wheel exists? Thanks.

P.S. Casper/Dun clay setup was run for the first time tonight and my lap times are more consistent, Haven't best my fast time yet but I'm still learning to drive the setup, thanks!
Were you using the dish inserts on your wheels? The only time I have had any problems like that was when I was running the dish inserts. When using the dish inserts with serrated lock nuts, the dish will slip and eventually back off the wheel. I've lost wheels off the truck that way before and the final straw for me was when the nut backed out and as AndrewTom described, the wheel got loose and stripped the hex. I've since stopped using the stock wheel dishes and use the wheel rings instead of the dishes and have also used the JConcepts Hazzard wheel with their Hazzard Dish inserts. The way the JC inserts work is that they have a male section that sits in the female cut out so the dish cant and wont slip. I wish the TLR dishes would have just used the same screw holes that the faux beadlock rings use. But to answer your question, any wheel with an SCTE offset will fit the 22SCT. For a list of the wheels, check the front page.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:40 AM
  #6875  
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Well, crap. I finally tore into the transmission and just realized that the roller I got has an Avid Mod slipper in it. I want to run 17.5 and I had the Losi 78T spur. Problem is, the guy didn't send me the original slipper parts. So it doesn't look like I'll be going to the track this weekend. *sigh*

Maybe I shouldn't buy used.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:40 AM
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Oops, double post, sorry.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:23 AM
  #6877  
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Well, crap. I finally tore into the transmission and just realized that the roller I got has an Avid Mod slipper in it. I want to run 17.5 and I had the Losi 78T spur. Problem is, the guy didn't send me the original slipper parts. So it doesn't look like I'll be going to the track this weekend. *sigh*

Maybe I shouldn't buy used.
A - don't buy used unless its almost free.

B - what size spur is on it? You can just go with a bigger pinion.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:36 AM
  #6878  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I do recommend the HD bearings for the rear hubs. Those get a lot of abuse and the HD ones do hold up better then most std bearings.



Consistency normally wins over a fast lap. Granted consistent fast laps usually beats slow consistent laps! LOL

My point is I usually don't worry too much about a single fast lap as I do in being able to consistently run competitive laps for a whole race.
Oh yeah Fo Sho, Just looking for 'The wow factor'. See the other racers start to sweat. It's on baby!
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:45 AM
  #6879  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Were you using the dish inserts on your wheels? The only time I have had any problems like that was when I was running the dish inserts. When using the dish inserts with serrated lock nuts, the dish will slip and eventually back off the wheel. I've lost wheels off the truck that way before and the final straw for me was when the nut backed out and as AndrewTom described, the wheel got loose and stripped the hex. I've since stopped using the stock wheel dishes and use the wheel rings instead of the dishes and have also used the JConcepts Hazzard wheel with their Hazzard Dish inserts. The way the JC inserts work is that they have a male section that sits in the female cut out so the dish cant and wont slip. I wish the TLR dishes would have just used the same screw holes that the faux beadlock rings use. But to answer your question, any wheel with an SCTE offset will fit the 22SCT. For a list of the wheels, check the front page.
yeah, I took the dish inserts off after the first stripped wheel as I knew I would gain a 16th or so of more thread. Loctite was suggested by AndrewTom, I guess I could try that but as many times as I take the wheels off I can't se it drying intime for the next race, heat, main etc. I'll try Serrated nuts if they aren't already and see how that goes. I could hear the 'grind' on the course before a jump, thought it was the ball diff, when that was still butter I knew it had happened again.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:41 AM
  #6880  
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Well, crap. I finally tore into the transmission and just realized that the roller I got has an Avid Mod slipper in it. I want to run 17.5 and I had the Losi 78T spur. Problem is, the guy didn't send me the original slipper parts. So it doesn't look like I'll be going to the track this weekend. *sigh*

Maybe I shouldn't buy used.
Metalnut, I feel your pain the exact same thing happened to me.

Just go down and see Scott at TRCR and get either the ae slipper setup or the losi. He will defiantly have the ae stuff.

I should be down there sat for some SC racing if you need any help look for me.

Kenny
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:58 AM
  #6881  
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Originally Posted by lewi007 View Post
yeah, I took the dish inserts off after the first stripped wheel as I knew I would gain a 16th or so of more thread. Loctite was suggested by AndrewTom, I guess I could try that but as many times as I take the wheels off I can't se it drying intime for the next race, heat, main etc. I'll try Serrated nuts if they aren't already and see how that goes. I could hear the 'grind' on the course before a jump, thought it was the ball diff, when that was still butter I knew it had happened again.
The thing about repeated therad lock is after a few applications 3-5 it starts to collect on the threads and works without neededing to apply more for a little while. It is worth a try. I use serrated nuts and crank the nuts down if I use disks. The other trick is the glue the disks to the wheels.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:57 AM
  #6882  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
A - don't buy used unless its almost free.

B - what size spur is on it? You can just go with a bigger pinion.
I usually don't buy used, but this being my first dirt RC racer of any kind, I wanted to play it smart. To be fair, the truck did come with lots of TLR aluminum upgrades, carbon fiber shock towers, 3 sets of wheels and is otherwise in good shape. But yeah, I'm missing a couple of screws and some of the stock parts.

It's the 87T spur. I don't actually have any pinions for a good FDR with that, but I'd also rather stick with the Losi slipper.

Originally Posted by kjohnsiii View Post
Metalnut, I feel your pain the exact same thing happened to me.

Just go down and see Scott at TRCR and get either the ae slipper setup or the losi. He will defiantly have the ae stuff.

I should be down there sat for some SC racing if you need any help look for me.

Kenny
That's actually where I was going to go Sunday, my first time, but since I need a couple other parts I just placed an AMain order. Looks like I'll be going down there next week or next Sunday. So it goes sometimes
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:08 AM
  #6883  
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My front left wheel is locked up and wont turn. It's not the bearings as far as I can tell. With the wheel off it spins pretty free but feels kind of gritty. It spins ok until I tighten the wheel nut down all the way. Any ideas?
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:13 AM
  #6884  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
My front left wheel is locked up and wont turn. It's not the bearings as far as I can tell. With the wheel off it spins pretty free but feels kind of gritty. It spins ok until I tighten the wheel nut down all the way. Any ideas?
If you are using the plastic wheel hexes, you can't crank down on the wheel nuts. Snug them up, but don't crank hard on them.

Upgrade to aluminum hexes.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:36 AM
  #6885  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
My front left wheel is locked up and wont turn. It's not the bearings as far as I can tell. With the wheel off it spins pretty free but feels kind of gritty. It spins ok until I tighten the wheel nut down all the way. Any ideas?
make sure the spacer is between the bearings, dont ask how i know that...
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