Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO) >

TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Like Tree1Likes

TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 04-04-2013, 10:18 AM
  #6766  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
AndrewTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 1,429
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Maybe.
maybe...... c'mon

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-22-diffs.html
AndrewTom is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 12:13 PM
  #6767  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 102
Default

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Guys if you're having ball diff issues, any issues at all try the Bfast Diff kits. I personally choose the ceramic thrust and carbide balls. The parts quality is stellar, the rings require NO prep as they're honed before being packaged and are simply flatter then you can get with a sanding block,etc. I've had well over 50 runs in Mod SC with a 4 pole Pro 2 Tekin motor that has managed to consume two idler gears already and one Triad slipper spur gear(overheating) and the diff is still butter smooth.
+1 My boy has had the same B-Fast diff in his mod since last october,and we race at least 3 times a month. I'm gona put a new one in for the shortcourse showdown at trackside just to be safe but the old one still feels smooth as butter.
tekinACE is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 02:26 PM
  #6768  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
 
Blown up's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ma.
Posts: 363
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

when u guys put the sways on did u give up traction? The truck handles great the way it is but it does have a ton of body roll.
Blown up is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 02:45 PM
  #6769  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,869
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Blown up View Post
when u guys put the sways on did u give up traction? The truck handles great the way it is but it does have a ton of body roll.
honestly I have not run without swaybars. I ran them on my XXX and built my 22SCT with them. I think they are helpful to reduce body roll and don't give up much traction if any.
Casper is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 03:37 PM
  #6770  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 217
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
Just ordered 2. Crazy question, do you just grease the balls with black grease and lay them in the grooves? Or put a bead of grease in the groove and lay the balls in it?

Thank you .....
Medicinal Coma is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 03:39 PM
  #6771  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma View Post
Just ordered 2. Crazy question, do you just grease the balls with black grease and lay them in the grooves? Or put a bead of grease in the groove and lay the balls in it?

Thank you .....
The balls are "caged" in the ring so they don't come out. Build like a regular thrust bearing - put the grooved washer on the screw, add black grease, add the caged balls, more grease on top and add the last washer. Done
Grandturk is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 03:42 PM
  #6772  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 217
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Turk......
Medicinal Coma is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 03:47 PM
  #6773  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,869
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Yeah Thanks Turk.

The balls are in the center part so they don't fall out. I use normal TLR black grease lke I do with any other thrust bearing assy. These are just easier to build and last longer.

I do just as Grandturk explained.

Put one washer on and put a small bead of grease around the washer, then put the caged balls on and then put another bead around the balls and then push the other washer on and lightly wipe off squeeze out.

It is not critical as there is clearance for both washers but if you look closely one washer has a larger center hole then the other. This larger hole goes toward the main gear. The smaller goes against the head of the screw. This would be more critical if the tolerance to the screw was tighter but just wanted to put that out there as well. The two washers are not the same.
Casper is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 04:06 PM
  #6774  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 2,952
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

I must say I hear a lot of speculation on the thread about thrust washers grenading and diff bolts breaking. I would reiterate the importance of proper setup, honing of the diff and thrust rings, proper diff silicone grease and thrust lube and an easy "turn in" of the diff.

I'm on the stock diff, stock everything from an entire season ago. I rebuild the same components every 2-3 weeks and hone the rings true with 400 grit wet sanding every time.

I have never had a failure so I tend to believe its more a matter of setup and planned maintenance then anything.

Every guy I've seen with a grenaded idler gear had no slip in his slipper. What can you expect when you take the shock absorption feature out of the design? Not to mention how are you driving the thing without setting your slipper to track conditions? You must be overworking the built in "slipper" in your trigger finger!!!
But anyways, once I'm done rebuilding I start with the diff tightened enough to just start turning and not slipping.
Then I chuck the side opposite of the adjustment side outdrives into my cordless dewalt drill.

Then all I do is hold the drive gear stationary and pull the trigger. Let it run about 20 seconds, tighten about a quarter turn and repeat the process until I come To full tight on the bolt. Not " I'm gonna break the bolt" tight ape arms, but an easy full tight and run it in one last time. Then I back the screw out about a 1/16th of a turn.
This method generated less heat and is an easier break in then using the trucks motor.
The thing is butter smooth and on a weak magnet turnigy motor I can spin the wheels without turning the motor.

Then I set the slipper so it slips a little too much, then I take it to the track and tighten until I can get max acceleration and minimum wheel spin on some of the larger jumps and then leave it alone.

This method works for me and once you get used to it is just another muscle memory habit when doing your routine maintenance.

If your having a lot of trouble and/or are new to this I'm always happy to help a brother out. I'll rebuild and set your diff for free if you can't get it done just send me a pm!!!
Antimullet is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 04:34 PM
  #6775  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
AndrewTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 1,429
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Yeah Thanks Turk.

The balls are in the center part so they don't fall out. I use normal TLR black grease lke I do with any other thrust bearing assy. These are just easier to build and last longer.

I do just as Grandturk explained.

Put one washer on and put a small bead of grease around the washer, then put the caged balls on and then put another bead around the balls and then push the other washer on and lightly wipe off squeeze out.

It is not critical as there is clearance for both washers but if you look closely one washer has a larger center hole then the other. This larger hole goes toward the main gear. The smaller goes against the head of the screw. This would be more critical if the tolerance to the screw was tighter but just wanted to put that out there as well. The two washers are not the same.
which diff screw? associated or stock tlr? i think i remember one haveing a bigger head then the other.
AndrewTom is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 06:20 PM
  #6776  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 217
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

TLR diff screw has the bigger head on it.
Medicinal Coma is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 07:14 PM
  #6777  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
AndrewTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 1,429
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma View Post
TLR diff screw has the bigger head on it.
thats what i thought, thanks for clearing that up for me.
AndrewTom is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 08:56 PM
  #6778  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,869
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Bearing will work with either screw so you can use what ever you have been using! TLR has a larger head.
Casper is offline  
Old 04-04-2013, 09:47 PM
  #6779  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
AndrewTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 1,429
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Bearing will work with either screw so you can use what ever you have been using! TLR has a larger head.
terrific! thanks casper!!!
AndrewTom is offline  
Old 04-05-2013, 10:25 AM
  #6780  
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 15
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Collaborative setup Casper/RYAN

Good afternoon fellow racers!

Been running the 22SCT at the local track for about a month and a half & having fun. The time has been spent mostly honing rc skills and choosing the best lines around the track and learning how to jump, tweeking pinions, tires etc.

I've finally decided to try and run a setup that has been listed here, the Casper/Ryan setup. I need to shave 2 seconds off my lap time, half will come from being a better driver and the other half I hope will come from the setup and making tweeks to it if needed. So after reviewing the setup provided here I have a few questions.....

Looking at the diagram
Front - 0/spacers, does that mean no spacers under the ball stud?
Front - 3mm/spacers, where do the spacers go, under the ball stud on the steering rack?
I also see a number 1 & a number 2 beside the picture of the front shock tower towards the bottom, what is that in reference too?

Rear
Anti-Squat: 2 how and where do I change this?
Rear - 2/mm (by the rear shoack tower) where do these go, under the ballstud?
I also see a number 1 & a number 2 beside the picture of the rear shock tower towards the bottom, what is that in reference too?


Thanks everyone for your help, love the forum.
lewi007 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.