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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 03-31-2013, 11:14 AM
  #6706  
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I hate to beat a dead horse, but I need to get this out of my head. Why are you suppose to break in a tlr ball diff? You have hardened rings against hardened balls. Is breaking in suppose to mean your wearing a groove in with the balls into the rings? If so why on earth would you want that? Are we breaking in the thrust assembly? Certainly don't want that because it just breaks anyway! The only other thing I can think of is that you are taking the initial spring tension out, which should be done when first assembling with a pair of plyers.

All my ae cars I just put the diff together set my spring tention and off to the races with no "breaking in" process and would have great performance out of them For long periods of time between rebuilds. In fact I NEVER had one come apart on me.

I realize I'm talking about two different companies, and each has their own quarks. I love the handling of my tlr and most likly will never give it up. The only other thing I don't care for is when I'm coming into a corner and the pack is behind me and I go into a turn, but the car goes straight cause the rack binds up, and the field goes right on by! This has happened numerous times. I feel like we should'nt have to replace the the rack like it's a consumable part. Great theory, and it's the reason the truck turns so well, but lousy design and material choice.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:50 PM
  #6707  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
by 'bucking up' do you mean the rear is over rebounding off a jump?
is the truck grounding out? if it is, go thicker on shock fluid, or to the next step smaller piston.
Caspers set up may work better on carpet hen root's. but I dont know, ive never run on carpet, except my living room.
There is a straight with plow discs scattered and that is where it needs the most work. It is a fast section. When hitting the discs the rear end goes up in the air. Like a nose dive. It is not bouncing. It is when you hit it. The other trucks float over them. We've tried different ride heights thinking it was rubbing but it doesn't help any.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:53 PM
  #6708  
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Originally Posted by tbills66 View Post
There is a straight with plow discs scattered and that is where it needs the most work. It is a fast section. When hitting the discs the rear end goes up in the air. Like a nose dive. It is not bouncing. It is when you hit it. The other trucks float over them. We've tried different ride heights thinking it was rubbing but it doesn't help any.
I think its pretty simple. If the chassis is hitting the discs and bumping it up into the air you need either more damping (harder oil) or more pack (smaller piston holes). If the truck is not hitting the discs then you probably just need less pack so go next size bigger piston holes and maybe up 2.5wt in oil. If it still bucks up the back end then try going up 2 sizes in poston holes and up 5wt in oil.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:57 PM
  #6709  
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Originally Posted by drepus View Post
I think its pretty simple. If the chassis is hitting the discs and bumping it up into the air you need either more damping (harder oil) or more pack (smaller piston holes). If the truck is not hitting the discs then you probably just need less pack so go next size bigger piston holes and maybe up 2.5wt in oil. If it still bucks up the back end then try going up 2 sizes in poston holes and up 5wt in oil.
Thanks, We'll give it a try and see what happens.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:11 PM
  #6710  
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Originally Posted by slodustin View Post
I hate to beat a dead horse, but I need to get this out of my head. Why are you suppose to break in a tlr ball diff? You have hardened rings against hardened balls. Is breaking in suppose to mean your wearing a groove in with the balls into the rings? If so why on earth would you want that? Are we breaking in the thrust assembly? Certainly don't want that because it just breaks anyway! The only other thing I can think of is that you are taking the initial spring tension out, which should be done when first assembling with a pair of plyers.

All my ae cars I just put the diff together set my spring tention and off to the races with no "breaking in" process and would have great performance out of them For long periods of time between rebuilds. In fact I NEVER had one come apart on me.

I realize I'm talking about two different companies, and each has their own quarks. I love the handling of my tlr and most likly will never give it up. The only other thing I don't care for is when I'm coming into a corner and the pack is behind me and I go into a turn, but the car goes straight cause the rack binds up, and the field goes right on by! This has happened numerous times. I feel like we should'nt have to replace the the rack like it's a consumable part. Great theory, and it's the reason the truck turns so well, but lousy design and material choice.
the point to break in the ball diff is to mainly get a channel started on rings.
if you use the associated diff screw & assembly, you shouldn't have too many issues with the thrust.
as long as the rack/slider is kept clean, i cant see how it would bind up from what you are saying is super easy. if it means cleaning the rack after every race weekend, so be it.
thats racing for you, i could curse and whine about every time I had a mechanical failure or a turn marshall made a mistake, but its racing, part of the package man.
Originally Posted by tbills66 View Post
There is a straight with plow discs scattered and that is where it needs the most work. It is a fast section. When hitting the discs the rear end goes up in the air. Like a nose dive. It is not bouncing. It is when you hit it. The other trucks float over them. We've tried different ride heights thinking it was rubbing but it doesn't help any.
when you hit the discs, are you on-power?
I would raise the ride height, maybe go to a softer spring and test it.

try this too. when you get to the track, take the truck for a few laps to warm it up. then pull it in, and fully compress a shock , and remove the bleed screw. some fluid and air may come out, and reinstall the screw with the shock still fully compressed. i tried this at my track, and it made a noticeable difference, much better bump handling.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:40 AM
  #6711  
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Originally Posted by tbills66 View Post
There is a straight with plow discs scattered and that is where it needs the most work. It is a fast section. When hitting the discs the rear end goes up in the air. Like a nose dive. It is not bouncing. It is when you hit it. The other trucks float over them. We've tried different ride heights thinking it was rubbing but it doesn't help any.
Sounds like a shock adjustment is needed, either a change in oil or pistons or springs.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:16 AM
  #6712  
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Originally Posted by tbills66 View Post
There is a straight with plow discs scattered and that is where it needs the most work. It is a fast section. When hitting the discs the rear end goes up in the air. Like a nose dive. It is not bouncing. It is when you hit it. The other trucks float over them. We've tried different ride heights thinking it was rubbing but it doesn't help any.
Ask some of the top guys what they are running to get yourself in the ballpark. Most people are willing to help someone that's struggling out. It could be something like you are running stock tire foam and they are running closed cell or they have all moved the upper mount out and you didn't or.... just ask people and take a look at their truck when they have the body off.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:28 AM
  #6713  
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Another quick question... I'm assuming I'm going to experience some diff issues, like a lot of people seem to be. I know some are switching to the Losi gear diff, while others are rebuilding with the AE kit. What about the MIP diff, what's the opinion on that one? I love all my other MIP products, so would that be the better option?
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Another quick question... I'm assuming I'm going to experience some diff issues, like a lot of people seem to be. I know some are switching to the Losi gear diff, while others are rebuilding with the AE kit. What about the MIP diff, what's the opinion on that one? I love all my other MIP products, so would that be the better option?
the MIP kit is still very new, and i am yet to hear of anybody who has tested it. I have had nothing but bad luck with MIP products, so I do not see myself buying it, heck any MIP product on that.
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom View Post
the MIP kit is still very new, and i am yet to hear of anybody who has tested it. I have had nothing but bad luck with MIP products, so I do not see myself buying it, heck any MIP product on that.
I appreciate the feedback. I threw the AE kit into my Stormer order just in case, so that should do me for now. I'd be curious to hear any reports about the MIP kit.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:41 PM
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:51 PM
  #6717  
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That sucks. But the only way this happens is if the diff is too loose and slipping. (or slipper is too tight and the diff is slipping). Either way the Diff was slipping!
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:15 PM
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I think it was the slipper was too tight. We had some winds on the track so i added some weight to try to keep it from fliping back which caused the slipper to slip more than I wanted. So I tighted the slipper and you see the result.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:56 PM
  #6719  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
That sucks. But the only way this happens is if the diff is too loose and slipping. (or slipper is too tight and the diff is slipping). Either way the Diff was slipping!
Pardon the noob question, but can you define diff slipping and how that would shred the gear like that? That's the idle gear, I presume?
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:10 PM
  #6720  
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Pardon the noob question, but can you define diff slipping and how that would shred the gear like that? That's the idle gear, I presume?
That's the diff gear. The diff can slip when the gear itself spins without delivering power to the outdrives. This causes the internals of the gear - the balls - to heat up and melt the plastics. You can hear a loose diff "bark" - that means the gear is turning more than the outdrive.

This happens when the diff is too loose.
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