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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 02-24-2013, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragula426 View Post
Max out the rear toe at 5 and max out the anti squat at 3...This will help with forward bite. From there, its tires and shock oil weight. Personally, I run on a marginal track indoor that is dusty and a little loose. Find the best tires, and as far as shocks go, I found the stock 57/55 set-up works really well and requires only about .150" of spring preload on each corner with 30-32.5wt in all four. I was running 32.5wt front and 27.wt rear, and went with 30wt rear, and traction and stability improved, so this week, I put 32.5 in the rear and left the front. I am running a Teking Gen2 8.5 and it will carry the front wheels down the straight.
Wouldn't the 3degrees of antisquat decrease the rear traction?

I run min squat and 4 degree toe blocks, gonna go to 5 degree blocks but it works pretty good.

As I understand it too much antisquat = not enough weight transfer, lowering initial traction. Or is this incorrect?
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:37 PM
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What degree are the stock caster blocks and what does changing from 0*, 3*, 5*, 10* do for handling?
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:43 PM
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ok silly question here.
when using the threaded king pins do you guys still use the plastic ones and if so your just drilling them correct ?
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by acuratech View Post
ok silly question here.
when using the threaded king pins do you guys still use the plastic ones and if so your just drilling them correct ?
You can use the kingpins with the stock plastics without drilling anything out. You will need to use 2 2mm spacers on the ends when using the kingpins for the caster block to suspension arm connection.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
You can use the kingpins with the stock plastics without drilling anything out. You will need to use 2 2mm spacers on the ends when using the kingpins for the caster block to suspension arm connection.
hmm the hole in the spindle is small for the stock king pin.
in order for me to use these it looks like it needs to be drilled ?
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:39 PM
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Almost have my truck where I want it. Had a huge problem with the rear kicking out after about 8-9 packs and could not get it corrected. I went against what I know and made a lot of changes at once. In part because I was so frustrated. As I said in another post I was finishing 1st and 2nd up until I had the rear start kicking out. Anyways I moved the rear hubs all the way forward, I switched out to a gear diff, and turned my throttle expo up. All that was a night and day difference as I finished 1st, 2nd, then a bad tire change put me in 4th in the main. Not sure what else is left to adjust except tires but I'm almost there.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by acuratech View Post
hmm the hole in the spindle is small for the stock king pin.
in order for me to use these it looks like it needs to be drilled ?
No need to drill it, the threaded king pin will fit perfectly! I have them on all 3 of my trucks! Tough as nails too!
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:53 AM
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Hi, I've recently bought a 22sct and trying to get it set up for my local tracks, I'm still new to the hobby and trying to work out the best FDR for the motor and track conditions I've read this Quote:
Originally Posted by F_ME
You need to take into account the Final Drive Ratio when comparing different spur/pinion combos.

To calculate the FDR the formula is:
spur# divided by pinion# = sum multiplied by trans ratio
(The trans ratio for the 22-SCT is 2.43)

The FDR of the 86/18 combo is 11.61

below are FDRs with 84 spur combos:

84/19 = 10.74 FDR
84/18 = 11.34 FDR
84/17 = 12.00 FDR

So, by looking at the above FDRs with the 84 spur, you can see that you will be above and below your target FDR of 11.61 with the 86/18 combo.

The higher the FDR # the more bottom end you will have....and more top end with a lower FDR.

And was wondering does it matter what turn motor your using for this FDR?? I'm running a 10.5t motor with zero timing, as this is regulation for the class i'm in, should i run the same spur and pinion?? or should i aim for a different FDR? I also race on outdoor clay tracks with a fair size straight on all tracks were i need a bit more Top end..
Can anyone help
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:23 AM
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I run 10.5 no timing class. Indoor track running 22/84.
We run 10 min finals and no heat issues.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl View Post
I run 10.5 no timing class. Indoor track running 22/84.
We run 10 min finals and no heat issues.
Cool, thanks for that, i'll give that a go..
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mrk80 View Post
Cool, thanks for that, i'll give that a go..
Just keep an eye on motor temps to be safe!
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
Just keep an eye on motor temps to be safe!
What is a safe motor temp?? Don't know if it matters or not, i'm using a tekin rs and gen2
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mrk80 View Post
What is a safe motor temp?? Don't know if it matters or not, i'm using a tekin rs and gen2
I like to keep mine between 135 and 145, but I am pretty conservative.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
I like to keep mine between 135 and 145, but I am pretty conservative.
Cool, thanks, i'll keep an eye on the temps a bit more now that i know what to aim for thanks again!!
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:35 AM
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Is that temp 135-145 pretty much the same with all electric motors regardless of the amount of turns and size ie/ 1/8 scale???
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