slodustin

Sapperc and I race the same track. It is very bumpy and slick. Its a place wear the person with the correct set up run up front. We have a 10 year old kid dominating every race day withe a lcg slash and a box stock 4x4 slash with a good set up. That's what's been so fun with this 22 platform. Going from an sc10 that was dialed to floundering with my 22. After tweaking and testing the truck is performing just like it should. Box set up is a good starting point but you can get more out of the truck by tweaking and testing. I'm running a very similar set up as gmackhurry. It can be found on the first page under member setups. I did change shock setup to, front: 55 piston 30# oil no limiters green spring and 3 turns out on the eyelet. Rear: 54 piston 25# oil no limiters white spring and 1.5 turns out on the eyelets.
I'm very happy how the truck handles the roughness of our track. I'm also getting great forward and side bite. The stock shock settings were just way to rigid for me. I also don't see the benefit of going to a two hole piston in this application. Way to much pack.

Dragula426

iTrader: (4)

I forgot to mention, run your rear camber links as long as possible and shim the ball ends so they link is completely parallel to the lower arm..

Rogue_Texan

iTrader: (15)

I am picking up a diff rebuild kit and it is cheaper to buy the out drives seperately, so I guess my question is, does any one run the light weight out drives? I am going to be running a 13.5, would these hold up or should I just pick up another set stock ones instead? I bought the truck used and I have no idea of the wear that has incurred. Thanks for the help in advance.

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Hey guys I'm thinking about trying out the ae 2 hole pistons. What would you guys suggest for hole number and weight oil. I am running on a high bite carpet track. Thanks for any input.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

Casper runs 1.6mm 2 hole rear and 1.5mm 2 hole front I think,
generally, I think around 27.5-wt oil is the best starting point. carpet, maybe thicker, I don't know, ive never run carpet.
since you are running on carpet, are you mid motor or rear motor?

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

I am not aware of lightened outdrives from TLR,
I see why you'd get the service kit ($25) over the complete kit ($50) since the outdrives are $18
BUT! the complete kit comes with the outdrives ($18) AND 5x8mm ball bearings! which on are 8 dollars!
so it is $50.99 on amain for the complete kit,
then $24.99 for the service kit + outdrives at $17.99 + 5x8x2.5mm ball bearings at $7.29 = $50.27
I would think get the complete kit, so you don't have worry about buying bearings. then, you can maybe service the other one and have a spare on hand.
Remember to use the Associated Diff Screw!!!

sapperc

iTrader: (1)

Not to start a fight, but Dean could probably win driving a rock. His driving skill (and my lack of it) has a lot to do with being up front.

I have to agree this is a fun truck to work on, it so adjustable and responds so well to minor changes. No need to get really extreme with rear toe, anti-squat, etc.

tekinACE

We have had 0 issues with the alum outdrives my boy run's 17.5 I don't think you would have any problems with a 13.5. As far as the diff i would go with a B-Fast diff they are super smooth and will outlast the stock diff 2 -1

Dale.0

iTrader: (2)

Casper or Ryan, I put your latest set up on my truck. Two things seem funny I just wonder if I did somthing wrong. When the front shocks are extended the spring is loose up and down. If I tighten the collor to touch the spring the ride hight is too high. Also it seems to have a lot of bump out. It looks like I have done everything right but maybe not.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

I have all great news on B-fast diff components.
saving up for a bfast kit for my 22sct and my 22t. I need to pick up a 13.5 or a 10.5 for the 22t before I put any ball diff in it. it has a gear diff in it currently, to take the massive and stupid power of the traxxas VXL it has currently.

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

I know this sounds stupid and you probably didn't do this, but my friend did this with his 22 Buggy, so it's possible you might have made the same mistake. He put the front Caster blocks on the wrong sides and had MASS bump out when he would compress the shocks. everything looked right and we couldn't figure it out until we put our cars right next to each other and started going over every single component piece by piece and that's when we noticed he had them on the wrong sides. Worth a look anyway.

Rogue_Texan

iTrader: (15)

Another need question for you guys, while mounting my rear sway bar I am wondering if the rear piece goes with the channel up or down. I installed it with channel up and the bar has a lot of play. Apparently I always find the parts with play.

pablo040

Not sure what you mean, because I'm fairly sure the only way the rear (center) mounts will secure the swaybar is with the channel facing down.
Like most rc suspension pieces, sway bars need to have 'some' play built into them or they will bond up the suspension and ruin the handling of your car/truck.

Rogue_Texan

iTrader: (15)

Ok well I have it upside down. I know the aspects of the sway bar but it had more movement then I felt it should. Thank you very much

Dale.0

iTrader: (2)

Ya I wondered about that too. I rechecked. The hubs are on correct. It's not massive bump out, but its more than I think looks right. It did run good though. I won the SC class for the first time last night.