bigbeej

iTrader: (83)

Need some setup help. i just built and ran this truck for the first time yesterday. I am running box stock setup with AE pistons 1.5 and 1.6, 30wt oil, 13.5T motor. Track is an outdoor track with harder packed dirt with dusty, sandy top with some deeper spots of dirt/sand in areas. Super low bite track. My problem is the rear end is like it is ice skating. I have almost zero acceleration without spinning out and my slipper is so loose it barely even moves the front end up let alone lift it off the bench when testing. My question is where should I start to improve rear bite?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

What tires are you using? The kit setup is a pretty good loose track setup from what I understand.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

First setup I put on my truck was for big outdoor low bite. Try lighter oil in the rear shocks and softer springs. I also slowed the steering down with a stiffer frot spring and heavier oil. I think I ended up 27.5 white buggy rear and 32.5 black front. No sway bars. I probably also added 1.5 oz behind the battery and .5 oz behind the servo

drepus

First off make sure you have a suitable tire for the conditions. Try moving the battery farther back and maybe even add a little weights above the transmission (.5-1oz). More rear toe in will also help.

bigbeej

iTrader: (83)

Thanks for the starting point. I run anything from boas, calibers, bow-ties, bow-fighters. All tires have worked with my old Sc10. I have my battery all the way back right now. I will add some weight tonight and swap out the oil back to the 27.5. I just want to change things slow so I don't dump a ton of money into other parts before I really know what I need.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

I don't know if anyone posted the weight comparison between the stock drives vs the new aluminum ones.

Stock 28 grams



Alum 21 grams



I mostly run 17.5 - especially in the winter months - so we'll see how these work out.

sapperc

iTrader: (1)

I'm not an expert, so I read a lot more than I post in these tech threads. Sounds like we run on similar tracks, so I will rely my experience with the 22SCT.

I run on a very rough low-bite local outdoor track. The surface is typical central coast hardpan, which erodes easily with use, the little rain we get, and the constant wind. The track is always covered with dust and sand, similar to what you described. We water it on race days, but that just turns the loose stuff moist, muddy in places, and still very low bite.

I started with the kit setup. It was okay, but not great. The 22SCT was too bouncy in the rough stuff, and the rear end tended to break loose a bit too easily and somewhat unpredictably at times. Again, similar to what you have described.

I also didn't want to spend more on option parts. I had already purchased the 22SCT support kit, the TLR 30 degree aluminum pivot, TLR aluminum ball stud and hub washers, TLR aluminum kingpins and a set of HR 1mm transmission shims.

What I decided to do was follow the Dunford/Casper setup principles with what I had. I left the stock pistons in the shocks and kept the stock yellow 22SCT rear springs. I kept the stock front and rear shock oil weight of TLR 27.5. I changed the front spring to the 22T green springs from the support kit, added the AL pivot and transmission shims only because I had them already, and rebuilt with the aluminum ball stud washers, again, only because I already had them. For added weight ballast I used generic chassis weights I already had on hand. I also kept the stock 10 degree caster blocks which work for me. I changed all the other settings as described in the Dunford/Casper setup.

The results are amazing! My 22SCT now feels planted yet nimble. The only part I think might be absolutely necessary is the 22T green front springs. Not sure I could find a mounting position where the stock blue springs would be soft enough, but I haven't tried, either.

I have to admit that I could feel an improvement in balance between using the stock plastic pivot block and the AL pivot block. So I have no doubt that the balance and feel would improve by adding the rest of the aluminum option parts used in the setup. I believe them when they say the 2-hole pistons offer improved pack and rebound and 0 degree caster blocks offer crisper steering response.

I'm not saying don't buy the parts used in the Dunford/Casper setup. What I'm suggesting is that if you are in a hurry, short on extra funds, or prefer to wait and see on option parts, don't be afraid to use the setup principles with what you have on hand. The chassis geometry settings they came up with work really well.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

I am running blinky 17.5 as well, interested to see how those hold up!

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

got my 0* castor blocks, associated 2 hole shock pistons and a rear sway bar from my lhs, along with some goodies for my 22T!
ordered two G-Force 2S 5900 60C lipos yesterday from value hobby, along with some other misc. items.

bbischer1

iTrader: (2)

as far as the slipper goes i know a lot of people at my LHS are using the AE spur gears with the more aggresive pads that AE makes. i havent tried this out for myself but i will be tomorrow. Even a TLR sponsered guy told me to try it so i would imagine it works.

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the info, I posted your info on the front page. Thanks for all of your contributions to the thread!

matt*strike

iTrader: (41)

Dunford/Casper setup. It was horrible on the bumps. And it was about 50 degrees at the indoor track. It was very unsettling on the bumps. Just could not get it to stay stable.

RcNuttz

iTrader: (9)

I'm using the Dunford/Casper setup and it has been pretty good i only made a couple of minor tweaks to dial it in to my local track condition, its taking the jumps and bumps much better then the box setting

Dragula426

iTrader: (4)

Max out the rear toe at 5° and max out the anti squat at 3°...This will help with forward bite. From there, its tires and shock oil weight. Personally, I run on a marginal track indoor that is dusty and a little loose. Find the best tires, and as far as shocks go, I found the stock 57/55 set-up works really well and requires only about .150" of spring preload on each corner with 30-32.5wt in all four. I was running 32.5wt front and 27.wt rear, and went with 30wt rear, and traction and stability improved, so this week, I put 32.5 in the rear and left the front. I am running a Teking Gen2 8.5 and it will carry the front wheels down the straight.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

Did you rebuild your shocks at the track? Try it - your shocks may be adversely affected by the cold - especially if they were built elsewhere.

I found the same thing happened to me - I had my truck sitting for a week and home and brought it out to a cold indoor track on Friday night and it was very unsettled - like the shocks had extra pressure in them. I rebuilt the front and it was a little better. The following Sunday I rebuilt the rear and it was back to normal at the same track. The only thing i could figure was the colder air in the shocks was taking up less volume than the warm air the shocks were built with. This would result in under-damping. I wouldn't think it would make such a difference - but it did.