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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 02-11-2013, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
Once again you guys have been a lot of help. I'm given your set up a try, thanks.
Fort Sam Houston?

That brings back some memories....
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:30 AM
  #5957  
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Casper I just wanted to up date you!

I set up my truck as stated in the "Casper/Dunford" but was running the stock blue springs had to much "push" today I swapped to the "green" springs and it was a huge improvement! I have did not change the rear A arms like you said I did switch to panther slicks and it seams to have stopped the truck from spinning out and tracking it better too

truck is getting there its the best its been, I would like a touch more turn in while on light power achieved? Some parts of the track it had so much grip its flipping over would lowering the right height help or cause other issues its currently at 28mm?

Thank you for all the help!
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:05 AM
  #5958  
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Originally Posted by RcNuttz View Post
Casper I just wanted to up date you!

I set up my truck as stated in the "Casper/Dunford" but was running the stock blue springs had to much "push" today I swapped to the "green" springs and it was a huge improvement! I have did not change the rear A arms like you said I did switch to panther slicks and it seams to have stopped the truck from spinning out and tracking it better too

truck is getting there its the best its been, I would like a touch more turn in while on light power achieved? Some parts of the track it had so much grip its flipping over would lowering the right height help or cause other issues its currently at 28mm?

Thank you for all the help!
Lower your ride height slightly. The setup calls for 26.5 front and rear with the body off. Also, unscrew the front shock eyelets that go into the arms 3 turns and the rear shock eyelets 1 turn. Also, no shock limiters.This should help out too. Good luck!
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:22 AM
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Hey I have a weird tech question. I snapped a wheel spindle the other day on my 22t. I have a 22sct too. I went to my spares kit and only had sct spindles so I went to change both. Found out that the T has a longer spacer between the 2 bearings than the sct and buggy.My question is can I run a sct/buggy spindle on my T using the correct spacers axle and wheel hex from the sct without affecting my geometry (I understand buggy is 2mm trailing and sct is 4mm trailing vs the T at inline) I just want to cut down on my spares kit of you know what I mean. That and try the difftent effects of the levels of trailing
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:50 AM
  #5960  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Lower your ride height slightly. The setup calls for 26.5 front and rear with the body off. Also, unscrew the front shock eyelets that go into the arms 3 turns and the rear shock eyelets 1 turn. Also, no shock limiters.This should help out too. Good luck!
The shock are as stated above, I missed the ride height setting I'll drop it down see how that go's
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:10 AM
  #5961  
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Originally Posted by RcNuttz View Post
Casper I just wanted to up date you!

I set up my truck as stated in the "Casper/Dunford" but was running the stock blue springs had to much "push" today I swapped to the "green" springs and it was a huge improvement! I have did not change the rear A arms like you said I did switch to panther slicks and it seams to have stopped the truck from spinning out and tracking it better too

truck is getting there its the best its been, I would like a touch more turn in while on light power achieved? Some parts of the track it had so much grip its flipping over would lowering the right height help or cause other issues its currently at 28mm?

Thank you for all the help!
Like Scott meantioned lower the ride height down to the setup sheet. This will help with rolling over.

"I would like a touch more turn in while on light power achieved? " I don't understand this? You want more steering into a corner while still on power? Most of the time we are off power going into a corner and then pick it up on exit. Is this for high speed sweepers or a little more help understanding what you are trying to achieve?

Originally Posted by Brownie. View Post
Hey I have a weird tech question. I snapped a wheel spindle the other day on my 22t. I have a 22sct too. I went to my spares kit and only had sct spindles so I went to change both. Found out that the T has a longer spacer between the 2 bearings than the sct and buggy.My question is can I run a sct/buggy spindle on my T using the correct spacers axle and wheel hex from the sct without affecting my geometry (I understand buggy is 2mm trailing and sct is 4mm trailing vs the T at inline) I just want to cut down on my spares kit of you know what I mean. That and try the difftent effects of the levels of trailing
You really need to run 22T spindles on the 22T. There are a few issues that occur when trying to run 22B/22SCT spindles on the truck. One is it makes the truck too wide and the other is the axle issue you found. I understand trying to limit your parts count but there are some parts you just need to keep stock of. Since it is not commone to break spindles it is not a bad idea to have a spare set with you just in case but you should not need more then one set at a time.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Humm. I would do two things. I would move the battery back two pads just to see how more weight back effects this. Then I would pop off the swaybar to see if that helps as well.
casper i have been battling the same exact issue to a T with this setup. I am running a full pack all the way back with 14g then 21g over the transmission and still the same result. even if the rear sway bar is a white sway bar, would disconnecting the rear help that much?
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
"I would like a touch more turn in while on light power achieved? " I don't understand this? You want more steering into a corner while still on power? Most of the time we are off power going into a corner and then pick it up on exit. Is this for high speed sweepers or a little more help understanding what you are trying to achieve?
I guess I'm looking for a little less push, with your help I have a lot less just wanted to see if I can try something to dial some more out
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:35 AM
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by hweaver184 View Post
casper i have been battling the same exact issue to a T with this setup. I am running a full pack all the way back with 14g then 21g over the transmission and still the same result. even if the rear sway bar is a white sway bar, would disconnecting the rear help that much?
With this lastest setup with the extra droop I have not had the diffing out problem and as much wheel spin as I did with my other setup. So I know what you guys are talking about but as this new setup solved most of this for me at my track. May want to try moving the rear camber link out one hole to stiffen up the rear a little more but I am not sure without seeing the car go around the track it is too stiff and lifting the rear end or rolling over too much and just unloading the inside tire?

Originally Posted by RcNuttz View Post
I guess I'm looking for a little less push, with your help I have a lot less just wanted to see if I can try something to dial some more out
You can try moving the front shock location to the inside hole on the arm. This typically produces a lot more turn in. If that is too much try it with the blue front springs. You can add a touch more front camber or take a 1mm out from under the front camber ball stud. All things I would try.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:42 AM
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I have zero push..but my 22SCT has zero rear traction..
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:47 AM
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Here's a tuning question for everyone. How do you make the determination if you've got too much steering?

Yesterday i was having trouble with oversteer around a sweeper and a tight 180 uphill. I diagnosed it as I was loose in the rear but in retrospect, I think I should have changed out my front tires for something with a little less grip - harder compound or different tread.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Here's a tuning question for everyone. How do you make the determination if you've got too much steering?

Yesterday i was having trouble with oversteer around a sweeper and a tight 180 uphill. I diagnosed it as I was loose in the rear but in retrospect, I think I should have changed out my front tires for something with a little less grip - harder compound or different tread.
Good question. Not always easy to tell. A lot of it has to do with where and how the rear end is breaking loose and how easy it is to correct with steering inputs.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:01 PM
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[QUOTE=Casper;11803674]Black grease is a bad idea behind the main ring. Silicone is the only thing to use for the main gears as there has to be a level of friction required for those to drive. If you have a grease that reduces friction too much the drive rings will slip and you can't get the diff to set. ONLY clear grease around the main balls and rings. The thrust bearing you can use black grease or other similar hi pressure grease.

Thanks everyone for the input. Black grease between the diff rings and outdrives is somthing that I believe is in the ft sc10 instructions. I understand this is not an sc10 just a build habit I carried over to the 22 platform. It makes total sense why the rings would slip on the outdrive. Never did on the ae though. Will rebuild and assemble minus black grease.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Good question. Not always easy to tell. A lot of it has to do with where and how the rear end is breaking loose and how easy it is to correct with steering inputs.
I would say it was at the apex or just into the exit and easy to correct with steering input - though on the sweeper the speed was high so reaction time had to be on point.
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