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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 02-10-2013, 09:53 PM
  #5926  
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stunter38....Check the diff when they go bad these trucks are undrivable I had a few thrust washers break over time fixed them truck was good again.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by crazydane View Post
Let me start by saying I love the TLR 22sct body...however

...I would like to change it up a bit. I still need the air flow that this excellent top offers, but also need something that fits well without a bunch of modification (basic swearing as I try to make it fit).

I have yet to see something "specific" that fits this truck. Pro-line has created bodies that fit a majority of SCT's out there including the XXX-SCT and SCTE. I do not have either of these so I do not know how much off the mounting posts are to a 22sct.

So, I am asking for feedback (and pics if possible) of those of you who have put something else on successfully.

Thanks kindly in advance,
CD
im using j concepts illusion silverado I had to stick the rear body posts up a bit. fits good sits low no more body stuck in the nerf bars look at my profile I have a pic of it in there.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:35 PM
  #5928  
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Originally Posted by johnmo View Post
Can I get help with a shopping list for the Dunford/Casper setup.

I'm bringing home a 22sct tomorrow and will build this week. I have no clue what comes stock so i don't know what I need.
Off the top of my head for stuff really needed (not talking about the alum parts which I could argue are not "needed"

Shock oil
Sway bars (front and rear)
AE 12mm pistons (unless you want to make them yourself)
Buggy yellow rear springs
0 deg caster blocks.
TLR tranny wieghts (rear motor)
One piece king pin (strengthen the spindle to caster block)

Alum parts we are running.
Alum 30 deg front pivot
Alum front and rear camber blocks
Alum servo mounts
Alum battery tray
(I am running the 4mm trailing alum spindles. If you get these you need to add 1.5mm to the steering ball stud to bring it to "stock" setting with the plastic)
Std rear clamping SCT hexes
22 buggy +1.5mm clamping hexes (these are just slightly wider then stock.)

The alum stuff is mostly for weight and some for durability. Other then the weight (which we like in these locations) the servo posts we feel stiffen the front of the chassis some so they have a handling effect in that regard. The only part I upgraded based on a strength aspect was the spindles due to I broke on running in 40 deg weather.

I also run the king pin through the arm to caster joint. You just need to add a 2mm spacer to each end of the arm to take up the extra play. This truck works for the 22T as well. the pin is too long to get to work with the buggy.

Almost all these part numbers on the the "Casper" setup at www.petitrc.com
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:35 PM
  #5929  
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Has anyone experienced this situation. Rebuilt ball diff. Per spec. Tightened diff to feel then ran the truck and had a loose slipper noise come out of the diff. Instead of the tell tale bark noise. I was very confused at first and put in new slipper pads and cranked it down. Still sounded like a loose slipper even though the diff action felt tight. Tightened the diff another 1/8 and I finally hooked up. I guess I just think its strange it didn't make the "normal" sound of a loose diff.

So here is the question how can I run a not so tight diff without it slipping? Racing a loose surface track. Gear diff is looking appealing!
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:45 PM
  #5930  
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Originally Posted by slodustin View Post
Has anyone experienced this situation. Rebuilt ball diff. Per spec. Tightened diff to feel then ran the truck and had a loose slipper noise come out of the diff. Instead of the tell tale bark noise. I was very confused at first and put in new slipper pads and cranked it down. Still sounded like a loose slipper even though the diff action felt tight. Tightened the diff another 1/8 and I finally hooked up. I guess I just think its strange it didn't make the "normal" sound of a loose diff.

So here is the question how can I run a not so tight diff without it slipping? Racing a loose surface track. Gear diff is looking appealing!
You have to just run a looser slipper. The slipper must always give before the diff or the diff will be toast in no time. I have to ask. You are using clear grease on the main balls and black grease on the thrust. Also on the main balls you don't need a LOT of clear grease. Just a bead on each ball is sufficient.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:55 AM
  #5931  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Blue front springs will not have the low speed steering of the green front springs. So depending on your traction and how agressive you like the turn in of your truck you can go to blue front springs to take away some turn in or make the truck "push" going into the corner a little more.

1.5 buggy hexes in the front are slightly wider the the stock hexes.
Ok so the firmer the front spring the better the contact with the ground therefore more steering?
The slightly wider hexes allow for stability at any cost to steering?
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:46 AM
  #5932  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
On page one, I have the mod that I did to use the TiNi kingpins in both the vertical as well as the horizontal positions as seen in this pic below. To use them in the horizontal, you'll need 2mm spacers on each side of the arm to take up for the added length. But other than that they're a perfect fit! Check out my write up of it on page one for more detailed info.

Scott
where did you get the blue hardware, also have you had any issue with the link hardware snapping since it's aluminum ?
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
Ok so the firmer the front spring the better the contact with the ground therefore more steering?
The slightly wider hexes allow for stability at any cost to steering?
The hex thing is really very slight. Like a .25mm or something silly like that (did not measure them but it is not much!). I would spend money on something else especially if you already have the stock SCT front hexes. I had the 22 hexes I was not using so tried them and never took them off.

Blue front springs really should take away turn in and actually give a little more exit steering but the theory is the heavier front spring limit weight transfer off power so you don't get as much weight over the front tires for steering entering a corner. They should help transfer weight to the rear faster on power though so this may help you get on power a little faster.

Originally Posted by acuratech View Post
Scott
where did you get the blue hardware, also have you had any issue with the link hardware snapping since it's aluminum ?
TLR and Losi both sell blue serrated locking nuts. (traxxas has them as well)

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR336001
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:54 AM
  #5934  
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Casper

I know that about the wheel nuts. If you look at page one his truck has the hardware I'm speaking about.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:32 AM
  #5935  
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Default Setup question

Yesterday at out sunday club races, i lowered my lap times by half a second! Now Im finally there, battlng with the amain leaders.

When I got to the track and ran two practice packs, i noticed that my truck was fishtailing too much after the straightaway. I then pitted and moved the rear shocks all the way in on the shock tower. While I was very pleased that my setup change did help, I wonder if the effect I got would be expected, or am I patching up some other issue wih this change...?

I assume that by moving the shocks inwards, springrate was soften, hence gripping better? Does this make sense?
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:49 AM
  #5936  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Hey All...so its been a while since Casper and I got to spend a satruday at the track together and decided to just wrench on the 22-sct's today. Overall, we both started off very happy with our SCT's but we finished up incredibly excited by our 22SCT's, dropped about 1.0-1.3 seconds off our fast lap and brought the average down by about the same...so very significant and way easy to drive. Feel free to try it out and comment back...


Here it is...
Front - 2 hole 1.5/27.5wt losi oil, shock mounted middle on top and outside on bottom. Shock had NO limiters in it and was unscrewed 3 turns. We ended up with green truck front springs but if you want a little more push, you can use the blue truck front springs. Camber link on inside with 3mm, spindles centered. No bumpsteer washers, 2 old gold washers under the rack side ball stud for the ling from the servo to the rack. ride height at 26.5mm measured with AE ride height guage. White sway bar. 30/0. 1 deg neg camber, 1 toe in.

Rear - 2 hole 1.6/30wt losi oil, shock mounted 3 on top and outside on bottom with NO limiters and shock unscrewed 1 turn. Yellow buggy rear springs. Camber link 1-B with 2mm under both, hubs forward all the way. ride height at 26.5mm. White sway bar. 2 deg anti squat, 3 deg toe LRC. 2 deg neg camber.

The only weight in the car now is 2 TLR weights over the tranny so 14 grams. The battery is a long pack, one older CR pad behind the battery only with the stop moved back to keep it from sliding forward. This gives great forward traction which has been a bit limited on this car until now.

The limiters being removed is huge so please dont get lazy here, lol. Dual rate turned down to between 93-95%

If I missed anything please let me know... I am finally ok sharing a setup and thank Casper as always as we work great with figuring all this out together!
Just to confirm; the yellow buggy rear springs are from the 22 buggy or from something else? Also, on one of your previous set up sheets you had added the 1.5mm buggy rear hexes to on the front, are you not doing that in this set up?
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:57 AM
  #5937  
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Originally Posted by acuratech View Post
Casper

I know that about the wheel nuts. If you look at page one his truck has the hardware I'm speaking about.
I don't know about the tie rods but Dynamite sells the 3mm blue nuts and conical washers. I assume some of that other hardware may be traxxas?

http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid

Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
Just to confirm; the yellow buggy rear springs are from the 22 buggy or from something else? Also, on one of your previous set up sheets you had added the 1.5mm buggy rear hexes to on the front, are you not doing that in this set up?
Yes yellow rear springs from the 22 buggy. Yes to the +1.5 buggy hexes but this is a VERY sligth change in front width.

Last edited by Casper; 02-11-2013 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:15 AM
  #5938  
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Wow, the Dunford/Casper setup rocks....great work guys!
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:31 AM
  #5939  
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well after seeing a post by user "Mitten" about his battery hold down I got to thinking and started to look and see what I had around to make one and this is what I came up with (not bad for free)

had some aluminum tube, M8 bolts & a carbon fiber tail wing from one of my heli's when you put it all together this is what you get

going to be testing this out tonight

the bolt heads stick out about 1mm should'nt be to bad not what I prefer but its what was on hand

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Old 02-11-2013, 12:14 PM
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Default 1/8 SCALE TRACK

I'm using the Dunford/Casper set as a base line but I'm looking for a set up better suited for my local track which is a large 1/8 scale. Big jumps, med bite, bumpy and fun. The fast guys are running it at about 32 sec.
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