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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 02-07-2013, 07:05 AM
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Casper,
You run Tekin RS pro, if you don't mind me asking. How you have your esc setup. Thanks
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
Casper,
You run Tekin RS pro, if you don't mind me asking. How you have your esc setup. Thanks
I setup all my ESC's pretty much the same. Here is a setup from my 22 10.5 I am running a 8.5 in my SCT right now with no boost.

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESC..._10.5_v212.pdf
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
35 is a lot of drag brake. Turn it down to the 10-12 range.
Will do!

thanks again
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
I setup all my ESC's pretty much the same. Here is a setup from my 22 10.5 I am running a 8.5 in my SCT right now with no boost.

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESC..._10.5_v212.pdf
Thanks!
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:56 AM
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Aluminum driveshafts just announced. Wonder how they will hold up. Good for stock racing - but I can't imagine you'll get many runs out of them in Mod.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
Aluminum driveshafts just announced. Wonder how they will hold up. Good for stock racing - but I can't imagine you'll get many runs out of them in Mod.
Are they TLR parts??? Why wouldn't they last for Mod???
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by spider882009
Are they TLR parts??? Why wouldn't they last for Mod???
Yes TLR aluminum driveshafts. Tlr332004

I would imagine they will get chewed up pretty quickly but may be a "speed secret" for an extra $20 every weekend.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
Yes TLR aluminum driveshafts. Tlr332004

I would imagine they will get chewed up pretty quickly but may be a "speed secret" for an extra $20 every weekend.
The should last a while especially in stock. I ran alum universals on my XXX SCT for a long time in mod. Held up great but not quite the same as how an alum CV joint works. They have a steel cross pin still so the only wear side would be the CV joint. Again my experience with alum bones is they should do just fine.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
The should last a while especially in stock. I ran alum universals on my XXX SCT for a long time in mod. Held up great but not quite the same as how an alum CV joint works. They have a steel cross pin still so the only wear side would be the CV joint. Again my experience with alum bones is they should do just fine.
Oh it does have a steel cross pin - that's good. I was imagining it with aluminum cross pins. That would be pretty soft against the steel outdrives. Good stuff. Already asked my LHS to get these for me!
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:40 PM
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ok guys i put my truck together last night. well about 90% of it. One thing i noticed that i did not like was the steering rack seemed to be kinda hard to move back and forth. I know people said they break easy so might as well upgrade it right away. well i figured its brand new so might as well break it first. Anyways is there a way to adjust it to make it turn smoother and easier?
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bbischer1
ok guys i put my truck together last night. well about 90% of it. One thing i noticed that i did not like was the steering rack seemed to be kinda hard to move back and forth. I know people said they break easy so might as well upgrade it right away. well i figured its brand new so might as well break it first. Anyways is there a way to adjust it to make it turn smoother and easier?
I don't think most poeple complain it breaks easy but does "wear in" quickly and gets more sloppy then some people like. As long as it move without a "catch" I would just run it and it will seat in pretty quick.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
I don't think most poeple complain it breaks easy but does "wear in" quickly and gets more sloppy then some people like. As long as it move without a "catch" I would just run it and it will seat in pretty quick.
ok thanks. I was really happy with the quality of most of it but thats one thing that scared me a little. But i figured it just needed a break in period. Also one other question. i need a good starting point for a 7.5t orion ran with a tekin rs esc. I ran a 8.5t in my sc10 and liked that but decided to step it up a notch. Spur/pinion and also esc set up would be helpful.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bbischer1
ok thanks. I was really happy with the quality of most of it but thats one thing that scared me a little. But i figured it just needed a break in period. Also one other question. i need a good starting point for a 7.5t orion ran with a tekin rs esc. I ran a 8.5t in my sc10 and liked that but decided to step it up a notch. Spur/pinion and also esc set up would be helpful.
Due to tranny differences I would drop 2 teeth from what you ran on your SC10 and try that with your 7.5 in the 22-SCT.

ESC.
Throttle profile 3 (linear)
CL 80%
Drag brake 12
Neutral width 10
Min brake 12
No timing
Brake 100% (adjust radio for final setting)
Throttle 100%

I think that covers the highlights.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bbischer1
ok guys i put my truck together last night. well about 90% of it. One thing i noticed that i did not like was the steering rack seemed to be kinda hard to move back and forth. I know people said they break easy so might as well upgrade it right away. well i figured its brand new so might as well break it first. Anyways is there a way to adjust it to make it turn smoother and easier?
Tip someone gave me on here for the rack. Take a #2 pencil and run it over the slider part of the rack it will work super smooth. Try it you'll like it!
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
Thanks!
Pay attention to the version 212.Make sure your on the same version with those settings and not the newest 223.
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