TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
#5536
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
There are some extra parts in the kit. Along with all the mid motor parts they di include some extra shims and such for ball stud tuning and shock spacers and antisquat shims. Those 4 parts I am not sure what they are for tough. The black ones look like they may be spacers for the rear arms or shock spacers the other metal one I am not sure.
#5541
2. Never ran mid-motor, can't help you there.
3. tranny shims=more forward bite (check on the first page of this thread, it would be explained better.
#5543
Tech Addict
iTrader: (37)
1. The larger the rear hex would help with stability, but take away a minor amount of rear traction. I have been working with rear hexes and found, for me at least, I prefer the +1.5 or +.75 on a larger track.
2. Never ran mid-motor, can't help you there.
3. tranny shims=more forward bite (check on the first page of this thread, it would be explained better.
2. Never ran mid-motor, can't help you there.
3. tranny shims=more forward bite (check on the first page of this thread, it would be explained better.
Yes the trans shims do the same for both mid and rear motor
#5545
I went to mid motor and have regular batteries and didnt want to go to shorties. You have 2 options IMHO:
1. You could buy the aluminum battery tray and then decide where to mount the ESC.
2. You could do what I did. I took 2 rear mount ESC trays and used a dremel to modified both trays to fit on top of each other in the front section.
See pics:
1. You could buy the aluminum battery tray and then decide where to mount the ESC.
2. You could do what I did. I took 2 rear mount ESC trays and used a dremel to modified both trays to fit on top of each other in the front section.
See pics:
#5547
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
hey guys, I am applying the front pivot mod of 25* using the aluminum buggy block (TLR1072) and brass shim (TLR1049). I have two questions.
1. Does the combo together achieve 25*?
2. The kit includes the 30* block plus a bracket stamped 30*, do I need a new bracket, not use the bracket, use the kit bracket?
Thanks and sorry for the rookie question, still trying to wrap my head around some of the lingo.
1. Does the combo together achieve 25*?
2. The kit includes the 30* block plus a bracket stamped 30*, do I need a new bracket, not use the bracket, use the kit bracket?
Thanks and sorry for the rookie question, still trying to wrap my head around some of the lingo.
#5549
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
hey guys, I am applying the front pivot mod of 25* using the aluminum buggy block (TLR1072) and brass shim (TLR1049). I have two questions.
1. Does the combo together achieve 25*?
2. The kit includes the 30* block plus a bracket stamped 30*, do I need a new bracket, not use the bracket, use the kit bracket?
Thanks and sorry for the rookie question, still trying to wrap my head around some of the lingo.
1. Does the combo together achieve 25*?
2. The kit includes the 30* block plus a bracket stamped 30*, do I need a new bracket, not use the bracket, use the kit bracket?
Thanks and sorry for the rookie question, still trying to wrap my head around some of the lingo.
so the 30* pivot essentially adds 5* of kick, and the buggy pivot with the other wedge/shim (which is labeled 20*) takes away 5* of kick given by the chassis.
2. I don't really know, but I think I remember hearing that with the aluminum pivot blocks, you don't need the brace, but i would keep it in until someone else can tell me wrong or right.
#5550
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
1.5, 2.0, 2.5 metric drives. and a .050" SAE. you may also need a 1/16" SAE, but that depends on the pinion (the losi steel pinions use a 1/16" set screw, which I of course have a bunch of)
for nut drives, you'll need a 7 mm, 5.5 mm, 5 mm, and a 4 mm box end and a 7mm box end wrench's to adjust turnbuckles and move the shocks around on the tower.
for nut drives, you'll need a 7 mm, 5.5 mm, 5 mm, and a 4 mm box end and a 7mm box end wrench's to adjust turnbuckles and move the shocks around on the tower.