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Old 01-25-2013, 08:35 PM
  #5536  
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There are some extra parts in the kit. Along with all the mid motor parts they di include some extra shims and such for ball stud tuning and shock spacers and antisquat shims. Those 4 parts I am not sure what they are for tough. The black ones look like they may be spacers for the rear arms or shock spacers the other metal one I am not sure.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:06 PM
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First race.... TQ A Main. A Main race... 1st place !!! Thankyou Casper and the rest of everybody for setup tips and answering all my questions. Peace out SC10 !!!!! Love this truck !!!
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:27 PM
  #5538  
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Originally Posted by Jokermayhem
First race.... TQ A Main. A Main race... 1st place !!! Thankyou Casper and the rest of everybody for setup tips and answering all my questions. Peace out SC10 !!!!! Love this truck !!!
Awesome! Keep it up
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:52 AM
  #5539  
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Originally Posted by RC8daBOMB
Any gearing suggestions for 17.5 Non boosted Reedy Sonic?
If you take a look on the first page, there's a gearing chart for everything from 17.5 down to 6.5.

Originally Posted by Jokermayhem
First race.... TQ A Main. A Main race... 1st place !!! Thankyou Casper and the rest of everybody for setup tips and answering all my questions. Peace out SC10 !!!!! Love this truck !!!
Congrats man, that's awesome!
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:37 AM
  #5540  
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I know this has prob been answered already.
1.) What does the diffenent size rear hexs actually do?
2.) Does the transmission shims work with the MId-Motor setup?
3.) What do the tranny shims do???

Thank You for the help!!!
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:48 AM
  #5541  
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Originally Posted by spider882009
I know this has prob been answered already.
1.) What does the diffenent size rear hexs actually do?
2.) Does the transmission shims work with the MId-Motor setup?
3.) What do the tranny shims do???

Thank You for the help!!!
1. The larger the rear hex would help with stability, but take away a minor amount of rear traction. I have been working with rear hexes and found, for me at least, I prefer the +1.5 or +.75 on a larger track.
2. Never ran mid-motor, can't help you there.
3. tranny shims=more forward bite (check on the first page of this thread, it would be explained better.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:13 AM
  #5542  
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In the Casper/dunford setup do they have the trans raised?
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:14 AM
  #5543  
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Originally Posted by NPETRO
1. The larger the rear hex would help with stability, but take away a minor amount of rear traction. I have been working with rear hexes and found, for me at least, I prefer the +1.5 or +.75 on a larger track.
2. Never ran mid-motor, can't help you there.
3. tranny shims=more forward bite (check on the first page of this thread, it would be explained better.

Yes the trans shims do the same for both mid and rear motor
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:44 AM
  #5544  
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin
In the Casper/dunford setup do they have the trans raised?
Yes
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:35 AM
  #5545  
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Originally Posted by joedeman1969
I went to mid motor and have regular batteries and didnt want to go to shorties. You have 2 options IMHO:
1. You could buy the aluminum battery tray and then decide where to mount the ESC.
2. You could do what I did. I took 2 rear mount ESC trays and used a dremel to modified both trays to fit on top of each other in the front section.
See pics:
Why not mount the ESC on the battery brace? Your way seems to be too high for my preferences.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:51 PM
  #5546  
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What size hex drivers are needed to assemble this kit?
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:06 PM
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hey guys, I am applying the front pivot mod of 25* using the aluminum buggy block (TLR1072) and brass shim (TLR1049). I have two questions.

1. Does the combo together achieve 25*?
2. The kit includes the 30* block plus a bracket stamped 30*, do I need a new bracket, not use the bracket, use the kit bracket?

Thanks and sorry for the rookie question, still trying to wrap my head around some of the lingo.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:08 PM
  #5548  
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Originally Posted by hkrob
What size hex drivers are needed to assemble this kit?
Standard RC Metric kit will do most of it (1.5mm, 2, 2.5, and 3mm) I found out towards the end of the build you will need one standard hex, a .050".

Good luck!
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:36 PM
  #5549  
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Originally Posted by LBR_Frank
hey guys, I am applying the front pivot mod of 25* using the aluminum buggy block (TLR1072) and brass shim (TLR1049). I have two questions.

1. Does the combo together achieve 25*?
2. The kit includes the 30* block plus a bracket stamped 30*, do I need a new bracket, not use the bracket, use the kit bracket?

Thanks and sorry for the rookie question, still trying to wrap my head around some of the lingo.
1. Yes that combo does acheive 25* of kick. on a side note, the TLR 22 Chassis has a kick of 25* in the chassis.
so the 30* pivot essentially adds 5* of kick, and the buggy pivot with the other wedge/shim (which is labeled 20*) takes away 5* of kick given by the chassis.
2. I don't really know, but I think I remember hearing that with the aluminum pivot blocks, you don't need the brace, but i would keep it in until someone else can tell me wrong or right.
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:42 PM
  #5550  
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Originally Posted by hkrob
What size hex drivers are needed to assemble this kit?
1.5, 2.0, 2.5 metric drives. and a .050" SAE. you may also need a 1/16" SAE, but that depends on the pinion (the losi steel pinions use a 1/16" set screw, which I of course have a bunch of)
for nut drives, you'll need a 7 mm, 5.5 mm, 5 mm, and a 4 mm box end and a 7mm box end wrench's to adjust turnbuckles and move the shocks around on the tower.
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