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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 01-14-2013, 07:04 AM
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GrandTurk... thanks for the response. Which rear aluminum hubs should I use? There seems to be like 3 different sizes or widths? I'm planning on using the kit wheels fr starters?
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jokermayhem View Post
GrandTurk... thanks for the response. Which rear aluminum hubs should I use? There seems to be like 3 different sizes or widths? I'm planning on using the kit wheels fr starters?
Most setups call for the stock rear hub width. I used the +.75 outside in loose conditions for a little more stability.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:52 AM
  #5283  
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which size 12 millimeter hex is will give me the maximum legal with with the stock wheels?
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:09 AM
  #5284  
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Casper I saw you did realy well at IERC did you run the complet new set up or did you change anything?

I ran the set up and was really loose. I was using no sauce Suburbs. I Ended up laying my rear shocks in on the tower one spot and removed the rear sway bar and it was better.

I ran that same set up at Pegasus on Sunday and it was off the chain! I was using Green double dee's out there.

Any suggestions for IERC? I placed third on Friday noght but I think I can do better I need more traction in the rear I had tons of steering.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
@ Dan Jokermayhem - check the first post of this thread for everything you need to know.

My opinion on "must haves" :
- captured steering links - theres couple of options, I use the traxxas links
- aluminum camber blocks - the ball studs eventually pull out of the plastic blocks on 22's
- aluminum wheel hexes - I don't like the plastic ones as they can fall off and you lose the pins when you have the wheels off and are transporting/cleaning etc
+1 on alum. hexes. I have been running DE racing wheels on my XXX-SCT, ony TenSCte offset, and they constantly pull the hexes and that little pin drops to the floor. I think I am going to invest in the hexes asap.
I just bought TRA3643 last I was at the hobby shop.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:14 AM
  #5286  
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Originally Posted by Jokermayhem View Post
which size 12 millimeter hex is will give me the maximum legal with with the stock wheels?
Well... There's stock, +.75 and +1.5 - you do the math.

However, unlike what Pontiac used to say, wider isn't always better.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Well... There's stock, +.75 and +1.5 - you do the math.

However, unlike what Pontiac used to say, wider isn't always better.
I dunno man, my wide Pontiac holds the road real nice.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:34 AM
  #5288  
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Originally Posted by chrisjohns View Post
Casper. I'm having trouble getting my truck to jump flat. Seems to always want to jump nose up. Any suggestions?
Depends on the jump. These things can stay nose up due to the body catching air. Cutting the holes in the body helps a LOT in control but SC trucks in general if you arn't careful with takeoffs from big jumps they will get away from you pretty quick. Controlling the throttle off the face of the jump is critical to getting these jump right. get off the throttle just a little earlier and the nose should come down nice.

Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
Casper I saw you did realy well at IERC did you run the complet new set up or did you change anything?

I ran the set up and was really loose. I was using no sauce Suburbs. I Ended up laying my rear shocks in on the tower one spot and removed the rear sway bar and it was better.

I ran that same set up at Pegasus on Sunday and it was off the chain! I was using Green double dee's out there.

Any suggestions for IERC? I placed third on Friday noght but I think I can do better I need more traction in the rear I had tons of steering.
I was running the latest Dunford/Casper setup. Truck was not bad. I can't say it could not be made better for that track but I ended up running three classes and did not tune a lot. Panther tires were hooking up well. Lots of people on Panther or Losi rubber it seemed. The track was on the slick side for 2wd cars. As cold as it was I wish I brought some SS tires as Gilbert was on HB tires and looked to have plenty of traction so I think there is still some breakin to the track and some testing to be done on tires but overall the truck worked pretty good.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Depends on the jump. These things can stay nose up due to the body catching air. Cutting the holes in the body helps a LOT in control but SC trucks in general if you arn't careful with takeoffs from big jumps they will get away from you pretty quick. Controlling the throttle off the face of the jump is critical to getting these jump right. get off the throttle just a little earlier and the nose should come down nice.



I was running the latest Dunford/Casper setup. Truck was not bad. I can't say it could not be made better for that track but I ended up running three classes and did not tune a lot. Panther tires were hooking up well. Lots of people on Panther or Losi rubber it seemed. The track was on the slick side for 2wd cars. As cold as it was I wish I brought some SS tires as Gilbert was on HB tires and looked to have plenty of traction so I think there is still some breakin to the track and some testing to be done on tires but overall the truck worked pretty good.
Yeah I had no SS tires either! Yahh I had your new setup on also but once I removed the rear sway it seemed to get a lot better.

when you heading out there again?
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dirt42fan View Post
Is anyone running the gear diff on indoor clay? If so what fluid are you running? 5k?

Thanks!
Running the gear diff on ozite and having good success with 3k. Tried 5 and seemed a little tight to me. I have actually already gotten some 2k to see if i can find the low end before diffing out. No more worn ball diffs for me!
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
Yeah I had no SS tires either! Yahh I had your new setup on also but once I removed the rear sway it seemed to get a lot better.

when you heading out there again?
Totally nothing against the track I had a great time but I don't think I will be back for a while. I have other tracks much closer I had an opportunity to go check it out so I took it. It is quite a drive for me for a club race. If they have a larger event I can fit in my schedule I will head out there again.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:29 AM
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Casper,
I tried your collaborative setup yesterday and I'm not sure I understand the front suspension setup. The only way I could get the correct ride height was to loosen the shock collar to the point that the spring was fully decompressed when I picked up the truck and took weight off the front end. (actually the spring had about 3mm slop.) Is that what you intended? If that is correct, what is the point of unscrewing the shock end 3 turns to make the shaft longer than the spring when it is fully extended?

Thanks for all your help.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RyanH View Post
Casper,
I tried your collaborative setup yesterday and I'm not sure I understand the front suspension setup. The only way I could get the correct ride height was to loosen the shock collar to the point that the spring was fully decompressed when I picked up the truck and took weight off the front end. (actually the spring had about 3mm slop.) Is that what you intended? If that is correct, what is the point of unscrewing the shock end 3 turns to make the shaft longer than the spring when it is fully extended?

Thanks for all your help.
I would have to check to see how much spring gap I have on my truck. I don't remember there being any but there might be. We used to have this on the old XXX-TCR setups when running buggy blue front springs. The ability for the shock to extend past the spring length still helps in weight transfer even if you are no longer sprung. I guess without having my truck here to look at closer we have run our cars with this phenomenon in the past and it has no ill effect and works.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:08 AM
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hey guys, what White spring is supposed to come with the Support Kit? I have kit setup on my 22SCT, and I bought the buggy yellow spring and it is obviously shorter then the stock yellow spring. Should the white spring included in the support kit be a truck or buggy white spring? mine looks like it is a buggy spring, and only is marked on one end.
are the buggy springs marked at one end and the truck springs marked on both ends of the spring?
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Totally nothing against the track I had a great time but I don't think I will be back for a while. I have other tracks much closer I had an opportunity to go check it out so I took it. It is quite a drive for me for a club race. If they have a larger event I can fit in my schedule I will head out there again.
Yeah I live in Eastvale (off the 71 and Euclid) and its a good drive for me bout 40 mins.

About the same as OCRC for me.
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