F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Don't use the front toe block from the mid motor setup, the rear motor setup piece is threaded as the mid piece is not.
See manual when you get a chance

For_the_win

iTrader: (9)

I am, what piece am i looking for then to use?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

You should be able to tell in the manual, it has different anti squat shims too.
If you only have mid motor parts you will need to score some rear motor parts.
I know that they sell the mid motor anti squat stuff in a set, rear motor stuff, not sure.
Here's where Casper comes in with a picture and part numbers from the manual.

twisted

iTrader: (13)

pics of a couple of chassis skins i made up for some local races.





see my facebook page TWISTEDSKINS for more.

For_the_win

iTrader: (9)

I found it, I wish in the book they had a little note saying its the piece without the number on it......

Casper

iTrader: (34)

We are running clay Panther rattlers at our indoor clay track.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

I noticed a bit of inconsistency in the gear diff running an 8.5. Mostly in cornering and putting the power down on the straights. I needed to roll the throttle a whole lot more. I felt the ball diff was much more consistant and put the power down easily.

I've got the gear diff in now with 17.5 and its OK but I think I prefer the ball diff.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

+1 great tires.

kidmoneyoc

I asked him about this on Twitter... here is his response.

@jr_mitch1 @JConcepts @TeamLosi_Racing What difference does the 22T rear arms make?

@kidmoneyoc to me it seems to just lock in the truck more not as edgy.

@jr_mitch1 are the arms wider than the sct? Is it a direct fit along with the bones?

@kidmoneyoc yea you mite need to turn out you shock ends so your Droop is the same as stock.

F>T>R

iTrader: (29)

Will changing the front caster from 10deg to 5deg help the truck turn or make it push????

Casper

iTrader: (34)

It should turn better on power.

F>T>R

iTrader: (29)

Thanks!

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

hey guys I am having issues with my diff. I did the whole break in procedure, and I am having issues. when I punch full throttle from a dead stop, the diff doesn't bark. but for some reason when I am rolling onto power and turning, it sounds like the truck is barking. I have tried running the diff really tight, and as loose that will allow the truck to start off from stop and not bark. I have tried different tires as well. I have pulled the diff apart 3 times now, and the diff feels fine, still as smooth as when I built it, but this keeps happening. I going to try sanding the diff rings on the side that goes to the outdrive (BTW my outdrives have a polished edge, where the rings ride on. Is that normal?)
this is getting old, I am no pro, but no novice to this stuff.
I am not 100% sure its the diff though, it could be something else, but I don't know.
EDIT: I just tried to run the diff as tight as possible, and ended up breaking the associated diff screw. i bought 2 at my local hobby shop and ordered a gear diff as well.

losiracer120

I wonder how the new lrc 2.5 would handle on carpet any ideas from anyone

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

What do most people do when setting ride height battery in or out of the car?