Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

Ditto what he said! I used #3643s and eliminated ALL ball cups from the truck.

Less to worry about. I race it only I'd rather rip an a arm off then loose a dang ball cup and have it cost me the race.

I put 2mm spacers on both sided of the rear camber links for clearance and 2mm of spacers on the inner camber link up front for clearance.
Tie rods didn't require any clearance and I used 3x16mm button heads to secure them in the steering rack and steering arms with locknuts on the other side.

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

Question, and this existed before and after I converted to captured rod ends so I'm not sure where to adjust. I have noticed quite a bit of "bump-out" on the truck, how or where do I add or remove shims to help neutralize bump steer on this rig?

I tried on the rack and on the arms and didn't notice any differences. I'm running the 4mm trailing setup with 5 degree castor blocks, 25 degree kick shim setup.

kmags

iTrader: (1)

Just rub the surfaces with a soft pencil. Quick, cheap and easy. Powder is available at any hardware or auto parts store. Try it, you may/will be surprised.

Losi57

Cool thanks bro! Definately worth a shot.

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

Anyone?

Butch Mann

iTrader: (38)

Amazing! Thanks for the tip kmags! Sharpened up a no2 pencil and coated my aluminum rack and housing..smooth as silk now! I'll pickup some power too.

Thanks again!

AlienModified

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, made the switch tonight, and I'm actually going to change the whole truck over in the next couple weeks.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

you adjust bump steer via shims under the toe link mounts. i forget which gives you more bump steer, putting more shims under the hub carrier or the rack/bellcrank.

elecRC23

iTrader: (2)

Finally, after over a month of having it being built, I took my truck to the track. IT WAS AWESOME! I'm running it mid-motor and had to add about an ounce of weight to the back to keep it from sliding, but once I did that, it ran like a charm. I was even passing buggies without bumping them. I could just slide right in front. I'm running an 8.5 revtech, with 86/19 gearing but am going to try 86/21 just to get that extra umph. Great job TLR

nitro_mt_racer

iTrader: (230)

Need a little help fellas. Either the thrust washers that Losi put in this kit are complete junk or I'm building my ball diffs wrong. We have 2 trucks, and after every race (3q & 1m) we have at least one broken thrust washer on each truck. Last week I replaced a broken diff bolt & 2 broken thrust washers at the track before racing and then changed a broken thrust washer again tonight prior to this week's race.

On my son's truck I replaced the diff bolt, nut, spring, and thrust washers with the AE parts. On my truck I decided to test a theory and just changed the thrust washers to the MIP washers.

Any thoughts?

thecman26

iTrader: (105)

On page 267: ScottKelly911 posted this: "Yes just get the AE diff rebuild kit and use the diff screw, nut, spring and thrust washers. Whether or not you want to use the thrust balls or opt for the TLR Tungsten ones is up to you."

nitro_mt_racer

iTrader: (230)

Yeah I know. I'm just trying to figure out if it's possible that I'm building the diff wrong. I can't believe that Losi continues to provide a product with such a high failure rate if my situation is common. At some point in time wouldn't quality control have went to the heat treater and said "hey, you gotta temper the thrust washers".

thecman26

iTrader: (105)

IDK, I have had a thrust washer disintegrate on me too, but only once (kit parts). My replacement is still in there. I am currently running 3 22 vehicles and have had one go out. I can't speculate as to why a lot of them have gone out on you. I run my slippers locked down and my diffs tight. If I have another one go out I am definately going the associated route.

Now if my track can get some triad kits in stock I am nabbing one of them for my 22SCT! But thats another story altogether!

RShockley

iTrader: (7)

I have yet to have an issue with the thirst washers in any of my 22's. Although with all this talk about them I switched all mine back to running the bfast pro kits with ceramic thrust balls. After running them again for a few weeks now I don't know why I ever stopped. Still have never had an issue with any of the stock stuff though. I ran the same Stock Losi diff bolt in the buggy for 8 months.

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

Kyle, great to hear that you finally got out to the track with it! Hopefully you and your dad will be out at the track tomorrow. I'm looking forward to seeing how your truck runs set up as a mid motor!
Sent you a PM
I ran the Avid slipper, it wasn't bad, but I felt like it wasn't quite up to the task of my 6.5 turn motor. I do think it'd be really good for a stock class truck though or maybe a lighter buggy. But I went to the AE VTS slipper (it has more surface area than the Triad slipper pads) and have to say, I ran the slipper REALLY loose because my diff nut kept coming loose (I finally replaced the nut and now it stays where it's supposed to). It was so loose that I'm positive the slipper pads would have glazed up on any other setup. I tightened down the new nut and bam, perfect! I'm really sold on the VTS slipper option after having run and compared the stock TLR vs AE with HD pads and vented plates vs Triad and now the AE VTS. The only problem is that you have to modify your gear cover to make it work. Me personally, I put spacers between the gear cover and motor plate, but I only run on indoor clay, so I dont worry about rocks and dirt getting in. If you run outdoors and choose to try out the VTS slipper, you'll have to try some other way to mod your gear cover, but I really do think it's worth it.