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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 11-02-2012, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBackmarker View Post
Don't know about the SCTE ends but I'll tell you what does work well. I've posted this before, but things can get lost with over 4,000 posts on this thread. TRA3643 fit perfectly. They come with the tie rods and captured ends already assembled. You will also need four M3x12 screws to attach them. They do not limit travel in either direction and have been working for me and dozens of my customers for a couple months now. These are camber links for the Rustler and Stampede, so you know they can take a beating!
Ditto what he said! I used #3643s and eliminated ALL ball cups from the truck.

Less to worry about. I race it only I'd rather rip an a arm off then loose a dang ball cup and have it cost me the race.

I put 2mm spacers on both sided of the rear camber links for clearance and 2mm of spacers on the inner camber link up front for clearance.
Tie rods didn't require any clearance and I used 3x16mm button heads to secure them in the steering rack and steering arms with locknuts on the other side.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:25 AM
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Question, and this existed before and after I converted to captured rod ends so I'm not sure where to adjust. I have noticed quite a bit of "bump-out" on the truck, how or where do I add or remove shims to help neutralize bump steer on this rig?

I tried on the rack and on the arms and didn't notice any differences. I'm running the 4mm trailing setup with 5 degree castor blocks, 25 degree kick shim setup.

Last edited by Antimullet; 11-02-2012 at 09:27 AM. Reason: Setup info added
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Losi57 View Post
Where can I get some and how does it stick.Do I just rub some on there.It doesn't seem like something that will last too long.I was thinking along the line of some dry wax lubricant.
Just rub the surfaces with a soft pencil. Quick, cheap and easy. Powder is available at any hardware or auto parts store. Try it, you may/will be surprised.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kmags View Post
Just rub the surfaces with a soft pencil. Quick, cheap and easy. Powder is available at any hardware or auto parts store. Try it, you may/will be surprised.
Cool thanks bro! Definately worth a shot.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Question, and this existed before and after I converted to captured rod ends so I'm not sure where to adjust. I have noticed quite a bit of "bump-out" on the truck, how or where do I add or remove shims to help neutralize bump steer on this rig?

I tried on the rack and on the arms and didn't notice any differences. I'm running the 4mm trailing setup with 5 degree castor blocks, 25 degree kick shim setup.
Anyone?
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kmags View Post
Just rub the surfaces with a soft pencil. Quick, cheap and easy. Powder is available at any hardware or auto parts store. Try it, you may/will be surprised.
Amazing! Thanks for the tip kmags! Sharpened up a no2 pencil and coated my aluminum rack and housing..smooth as silk now! I'll pickup some power too.

Thanks again!
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBackmarker View Post
Don't know about the SCTE ends but I'll tell you what does work well. I've posted this before, but things can get lost with over 4,000 posts on this thread. TRA3643 fit perfectly. They come with the tie rods and captured ends already assembled. You will also need four M3x12 screws to attach them. They do not limit travel in either direction and have been working for me and dozens of my customers for a couple months now. These are camber links for the Rustler and Stampede, so you know they can take a beating!
Thanks, made the switch tonight, and I'm actually going to change the whole truck over in the next couple weeks.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Anyone?
you adjust bump steer via shims under the toe link mounts. i forget which gives you more bump steer, putting more shims under the hub carrier or the rack/bellcrank.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:36 PM
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Finally, after over a month of having it being built, I took my truck to the track. IT WAS AWESOME! I'm running it mid-motor and had to add about an ounce of weight to the back to keep it from sliding, but once I did that, it ran like a charm. I was even passing buggies without bumping them. I could just slide right in front. I'm running an 8.5 revtech, with 86/19 gearing but am going to try 86/21 just to get that extra umph. Great job TLR
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:46 PM
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Need a little help fellas. Either the thrust washers that Losi put in this kit are complete junk or I'm building my ball diffs wrong. We have 2 trucks, and after every race (3q & 1m) we have at least one broken thrust washer on each truck. Last week I replaced a broken diff bolt & 2 broken thrust washers at the track before racing and then changed a broken thrust washer again tonight prior to this week's race.

On my son's truck I replaced the diff bolt, nut, spring, and thrust washers with the AE parts. On my truck I decided to test a theory and just changed the thrust washers to the MIP washers.

Any thoughts?
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer View Post
Need a little help fellas. Either the thrust washers that Losi put in this kit are complete junk or I'm building my ball diffs wrong. We have 2 trucks, and after every race (3q & 1m) we have at least one broken thrust washer on each truck. Last week I replaced a broken diff bolt & 2 broken thrust washers at the track before racing and then changed a broken thrust washer again tonight prior to this week's race.

On my son's truck I replaced the diff bolt, nut, spring, and thrust washers with the AE parts. On my truck I decided to test a theory and just changed the thrust washers to the MIP washers.

Any thoughts?
On page 267: ScottKelly911 posted this: "Yes just get the AE diff rebuild kit and use the diff screw, nut, spring and thrust washers. Whether or not you want to use the thrust balls or opt for the TLR Tungsten ones is up to you."
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
On page 267: ScottKelly911 posted this: "Yes just get the AE diff rebuild kit and use the diff screw, nut, spring and thrust washers. Whether or not you want to use the thrust balls or opt for the TLR Tungsten ones is up to you."
Yeah I know. I'm just trying to figure out if it's possible that I'm building the diff wrong. I can't believe that Losi continues to provide a product with such a high failure rate if my situation is common. At some point in time wouldn't quality control have went to the heat treater and said "hey, you gotta temper the thrust washers".
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer View Post
Yeah I know. I'm just trying to figure out if it's possible that I'm building the diff wrong. I can't believe that Losi continues to provide a product with such a high failure rate if my situation is common. At some point in time wouldn't quality control have went to the heat treater and said "hey, you gotta temper the thrust washers".
IDK, I have had a thrust washer disintegrate on me too, but only once (kit parts). My replacement is still in there. I am currently running 3 22 vehicles and have had one go out. I can't speculate as to why a lot of them have gone out on you. I run my slippers locked down and my diffs tight. If I have another one go out I am definately going the associated route.

Now if my track can get some triad kits in stock I am nabbing one of them for my 22SCT! But thats another story altogether!
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer View Post
Yeah I know. I'm just trying to figure out if it's possible that I'm building the diff wrong. I can't believe that Losi continues to provide a product with such a high failure rate if my situation is common. At some point in time wouldn't quality control have went to the heat treater and said "hey, you gotta temper the thrust washers".
I have yet to have an issue with the thirst washers in any of my 22's. Although with all this talk about them I switched all mine back to running the bfast pro kits with ceramic thrust balls. After running them again for a few weeks now I don't know why I ever stopped. Still have never had an issue with any of the stock stuff though. I ran the same Stock Losi diff bolt in the buggy for 8 months.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by elecRC23 View Post
Finally, after over a month of having it being built, I took my truck to the track. IT WAS AWESOME! I'm running it mid-motor and had to add about an ounce of weight to the back to keep it from sliding, but once I did that, it ran like a charm. I was even passing buggies without bumping them. I could just slide right in front. I'm running an 8.5 revtech, with 86/19 gearing but am going to try 86/21 just to get that extra umph. Great job TLR
Kyle, great to hear that you finally got out to the track with it! Hopefully you and your dad will be out at the track tomorrow. I'm looking forward to seeing how your truck runs set up as a mid motor!
Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer View Post
Yeah I know. I'm just trying to figure out if it's possible that I'm building the diff wrong. I can't believe that Losi continues to provide a product with such a high failure rate if my situation is common. At some point in time wouldn't quality control have went to the heat treater and said "hey, you gotta temper the thrust washers".
Sent you a PM
Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
IDK, I have had a thrust washer disintegrate on me too, but only once (kit parts). My replacement is still in there. I am currently running 3 22 vehicles and have had one go out. I can't speculate as to why a lot of them have gone out on you. I run my slippers locked down and my diffs tight. If I have another one go out I am definately going the associated route.

Now if my track can get some triad kits in stock I am nabbing one of them for my 22SCT! But thats another story altogether!
I ran the Avid slipper, it wasn't bad, but I felt like it wasn't quite up to the task of my 6.5 turn motor. I do think it'd be really good for a stock class truck though or maybe a lighter buggy. But I went to the AE VTS slipper (it has more surface area than the Triad slipper pads) and have to say, I ran the slipper REALLY loose because my diff nut kept coming loose (I finally replaced the nut and now it stays where it's supposed to). It was so loose that I'm positive the slipper pads would have glazed up on any other setup. I tightened down the new nut and bam, perfect! I'm really sold on the VTS slipper option after having run and compared the stock TLR vs AE with HD pads and vented plates vs Triad and now the AE VTS. The only problem is that you have to modify your gear cover to make it work. Me personally, I put spacers between the gear cover and motor plate, but I only run on indoor clay, so I dont worry about rocks and dirt getting in. If you run outdoors and choose to try out the VTS slipper, you'll have to try some other way to mod your gear cover, but I really do think it's worth it.
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