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Old 10-10-2012, 01:33 PM
  #3571  
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Stock set up is working very well @ my local track. My friends son is running right out of the box and he is making the A main on Friday night The biggest turn out is friday night. And he just went 19 laps with it . There are only 5 or 6 guys to run 19 laps in sc.. Oh he did play with the battery placement.. But he is running the stock set up as per kit.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by HollywoodRC
What shock oil are you running? I normally run 35wt in the front and 27.5wt in the rear. Blue springs in the front and pink in the rear. I have seen that a lot of people are running 27.5 all way around, just like the stock box set up. Just curious. I have not put this new truck on the track yet. Therefore I have nothing to base it on other than my XXX-SCT and SCB.
Where do you race in Austin?
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HollywoodRC
What shock oil are you running? I normally run 35wt in the front and 27.5wt in the rear. Blue springs in the front and pink in the rear. I have seen that a lot of people are running 27.5 all way around, just like the stock box set up. Just curious. I have not put this new truck on the track yet. Therefore I have nothing to base it on other than my XXX-SCT and SCB.
Experimenting between 30-35 in the front and 25-30 in the rear. Currently using blue front and pink rear.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kmags
Your thrust bearings are the only thing that keep the bolt from loosening or tightening while "diffing'. When your thrust bearings take a dump it will change the diff setting.

The thrust balls are the most important thing for those looking for the "butter smooth" diffs. There are fewer of them and smaller diameter and carry the same side load as the main diff balls. If you do the math it shows HUGE (I mean REALLY HUGE) differences in the load carrying capability of the balls. They also are exposed to the dirt while the diff is pretty much sealed up. I sometimes do a thrust rebuild with the diff still in the car. Sometimes it is a fast way to get rid of the crunchies.

PS I want to see some of the carbide and ceramic balls that have flat spots caused by a steel diff ring. Shattered maybe, flat spotted very doubtful. That is like scratching a carbide drill bit with a nail, not going to happen.

Sorry for the long post but there is a lot of questionable information out there on diffs.
thanks for the reply. im pretty sure dirt was the cause, i left the little plastic cover out on the bolt head side for easy adjustments and was also running it on the loose side.( one wheel peel) going to get the B-Fast ceramic thrust bearing.... and run it tighter.....
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:44 PM
  #3575  
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one last ? i have a novak gbt2 esc and 8.5 trun 540 is a 25c to low ? i do have a eco pack from a main it 30c 5000 mh. do i need a new battery and how high c to get?
thanks a i love my truck and happy
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by vito
one last ? i have a novak gbt2 esc and 8.5 trun 540 is a 25c to low ? i do have a eco pack from a main it 30c 5000 mh. do i need a new battery and how high c to get?
thanks a i love my truck and happy
Just pay close attention to your battery.
If you run it too long and discharge it too much you'll kill it.
Of course more C and more mah will perform better and last longer but you have enough motor to make your truck pretty fast.
Gear it right, watch the temps and don't run it til it slows down.
Yeh, lipo cutoff and all that but I don't think batteries like it too much.
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Alqwad
I am and I believe that most that do the conversion run the two hole setup in both the front and rear. I'm currently running 1.6 in both front and rear tryin to get a feel for things. I think others are running 1.5 up front and 1.6 or 1.7 in the back. There are enough pistons per bag for one vehicle for any combination you may like. Good luck.
what is the 1.5, 1.6, and 1.7? What do these reffer to or mean?
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by elecRC23
what is the 1.5, 1.6, and 1.7? What do these reffer to or mean?
There the size of the hole there drilling into the pistons after glue 2 out of the 4 holes shut.
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by elecRC23
what is the 1.5, 1.6, and 1.7? What do these reffer to or mean?
diam of the drill bit/hole in mm.
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:34 PM
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And this effects what exactly?
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by elecRC23
And this effects what exactly?
Adjusts the flow, and pack of the piston. Smaller hole = less flow, more pack and vise-versa.
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:30 AM
  #3582  
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Has anyone determined why the buggy springs were put in the support package ? If i'm not mistaken they do make 2.5" pink and blue for the SCT Right?
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:02 AM
  #3583  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
Just pay close attention to your battery.
If you run it too long and discharge it too much you'll kill it.
Of course more C and more mah will perform better and last longer but you have enough motor to make your truck pretty fast.
Gear it right, watch the temps and don't run it til it slows down.
Yeh, lipo cutoff and all that but I don't think batteries like it too much.
thanks i need a 18 tooth right.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:06 AM
  #3584  
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Originally Posted by vito
thanks i need a 18 tooth right.
hay vito is that you from hbf
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:18 PM
  #3585  
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Originally Posted by elecRC23
And this effects what exactly?

Just buy the AE Part #91308

They fit better. And are already drilled to spec.
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