Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO) >

TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Like Tree1Likes

TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 10-05-2012, 06:58 AM
  #3421  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (99)
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Boston, VA
Posts: 803
Trader Rating: 99 (99%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jimmy Lauri View Post
Could one of you guys that has an Orion VSTpro installed in their truck (rear motor config.) post a pic of it with wires from the esc? Its tight in my truck, i just dont want to do something foolish. Need some visual help. This is my first kit build...went awesome..love it! And im a newb to electric powered rc. I looked on the first page at Frank Roots truck....but you cant see were he has the motor clocked and you cant see any of the wiring and how he layed the wires in the soldering tabs. Thanks, Jimmy
Jimmy, here are a couple images of how I have mine wired up. I have not ran it yet, so im not sure my switch or capacitors are in the best location but I'm soon to find out, it was the neatest way I could come up with though.
Attached Thumbnails TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)-r10pro_vst.jpg   TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)-r10pro_vst_2.jpg  
isarctard is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 07:09 AM
  #3422  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (28)
 
hlb14's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 884
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

one thing i haven't seen mentioned is are those of you who are running some of the aluminum parts are you using threadlock? i always did in 1/8 and did so on my durangos as well, just thought i would ask...
hlb14 is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 07:12 AM
  #3423  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (125)
 
Briguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ottawa , IL
Posts: 8,128
Trader Rating: 125 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hlb14 View Post
one thing i haven't seen mentioned is are those of you who are running some of the aluminum parts are you using threadlock? i always did in 1/8 and did so on my durangos as well, just thought i would ask...
You definitely want to use thread lock on any screw going into metal . More so important is using the aluminum camber blocks as once the ball stud starts to loosen it will snap off .
Briguy is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 07:34 AM
  #3424  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hlb14 View Post
one thing i haven't seen mentioned is are those of you who are running some of the aluminum parts are you using threadlock? i always did in 1/8 and did so on my durangos as well, just thought i would ask...
Yep. Keep that little blue bottle handy. Anything going metal to metal gets thread locked.
Grandturk is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 07:56 AM
  #3425  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (28)
 
hlb14's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 884
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Briguy View Post
You definitely want to use thread lock on any screw going into metal . More so important is using the aluminum camber blocks as once the ball stud starts to loosen it will snap off .
Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Yep. Keep that little blue bottle handy. Anything going metal to metal gets thread locked.
kinda thought so, is losi's stuff any good or is a name brand the way to go? i ask because i built a durango once with the supplied threadlock and it sucked! had to take it all apart clean and reassemble

Last edited by hlb14; 10-05-2012 at 08:09 AM. Reason: .
hlb14 is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 08:12 AM
  #3426  
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
 
Frank Root's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,780
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hlb14 View Post
kinda thought so, is losi's stuff any good or is a name brand the way to go? i ask because i built a durango once with the supplied threadlock and it sucked! had to take it all apart clean and reassemble
The Losi-Lok is all I use, it works great. It is usually a good idea to spray off steel parts/hardware before applying threadlock as they have an anti-rust coating which inhibits the threadlock from drying directly to the surface.
Frank Root is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 08:16 AM
  #3427  
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
 
Frank Root's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,780
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jimmy Lauri View Post
Could one of you guys that has an Orion VSTpro installed in their truck (rear motor config.) post a pic of it with wires from the esc? Its tight in my truck, i just dont want to do something foolish. Need some visual help. This is my first kit build...went awesome..love it! And im a newb to electric powered rc. I looked on the first page at Frank Roots truck....but you cant see were he has the motor clocked and you cant see any of the wiring and how he layed the wires in the soldering tabs. Thanks, Jimmy
I tried to upload an image, but no such luck, keep getting errors.
Frank Root is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:01 AM
  #3428  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 181
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kmags View Post
I may have misunderstood but my Tekin does not allow 80* boost in sensored only mode.

The timing on the far left of the timing screen is for timing for unsensored motors or when in "dual" mode.

The center timing panel with the start and end rpms is for sensored only boost. And on the right is the afterburner (sensored only).
Correct - I have the vegas software and the only change is that I changed from 80 to 20 boost. Meaning i'm still in default C2 dual mode I just slide the boost bar down to 20 and applied it.

I mentioned that I used to run in sensored only.

While I'm here... When in sensored only do you have to first put the boost timing to 100 and apply it before you switch modes? Maybe wrong thread but if you know.
Thanks.
gmackhurry is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:22 AM
  #3429  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
 
weavty1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ATL.GA.USA
Posts: 2,121
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by isarctard View Post
Jimmy, here are a couple images of how I have mine wired up. I have not ran it yet, so im not sure my switch or capacitors are in the best location but I'm soon to find out, it was the neatest way I could come up with though.
You did it right

Dustin Evans has his mounted the exact same way.






So, good job sir!
weavty1 is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:28 AM
  #3430  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by weavty1 View Post
You did it right

Dustin Evans has his mounted the exact same way.






So, good job sir!
Those are some interesting carbon fiber body mount braces. What's up???
Grandturk is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:29 AM
  #3431  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
 
weavty1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ATL.GA.USA
Posts: 2,121
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Those are some interesting carbon fiber body mount braces. What's up???
Not made my TLR, that's all I can say as of this time
weavty1 is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:34 AM
  #3432  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Connectict
Posts: 267
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Talking Perfect! Thankyou!!

::
Originally Posted by isarctard View Post
Jimmy, here are a couple images of how I have mine wired up. I have not ran it yet, so im not sure my switch or capacitors are in the best location but I'm soon to find out, it was the neatest way I could come up with though.
That is perfect man!! Thankyou very much. Thanks Frank for trying..no sweat! I like to thank all of you for responding. Jimmy
Jimmy Lauri is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:46 AM
  #3433  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,869
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gmackhurry View Post
Correct - I have the vegas software and the only change is that I changed from 80 to 20 boost. Meaning i'm still in default C2 dual mode I just slide the boost bar down to 20 and applied it.

I mentioned that I used to run in sensored only.

While I'm here... When in sensored only do you have to first put the boost timing to 100 and apply it before you switch modes? Maybe wrong thread but if you know.
Thanks.
Tekin does not boost to 80! You can only go to 80 setting in advance timing and that is only for dual or senorless mode. That is why we are all confused!

I bet those are JC Monroe parts.
Casper is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:51 AM
  #3434  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by weavty1 View Post
Not made my TLR, that's all I can say as of this time
Careful WeavyT - they stole your spring chart. I'd be afraid of TLR stealing your prototype body mount braces as well!

j/k folks
Grandturk is offline  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:56 AM
  #3435  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
 
weavty1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ATL.GA.USA
Posts: 2,121
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Careful WeavyT - they stole your spring chart. I'd be afraid of TLR stealing your prototype body mount braces as well!

j/k folks
Bahahaha, noo noo.. Frank asked to use my spring chart, and mentioned me on the blog. Haha, no harm, no foul!

As for the body mount braces, lol.. That's just an illusion - It's swamp gas. Nothing to see here, move along.
weavty1 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.