Originally Posted by Jimmy Lauri

Could one of you guys that has an Orion VSTpro installed in their truck (rear motor config.) post a pic of it with wires from the esc? Its tight in my truck, i just dont want to do something foolish. Need some visual help. This is my first kit build...went awesome..love it! And im a newb to electric powered rc. I looked on the first page at Frank Roots truck....but you cant see were he has the motor clocked and you cant see any of the wiring and how he layed the wires in the soldering tabs. Thanks, Jimmy

Originally Posted by hlb14

one thing i haven't seen mentioned is are those of you who are running some of the aluminum parts are you using threadlock? i always did in 1/8 and did so on my durangos as well, just thought i would ask...

Originally Posted by hlb14

one thing i haven't seen mentioned is are those of you who are running some of the aluminum parts are you using threadlock? i always did in 1/8 and did so on my durangos as well, just thought i would ask...

Originally Posted by Briguy

You definitely want to use thread lock on any screw going into metal . More so important is using the aluminum camber blocks as once the ball stud starts to loosen it will snap off .

Originally Posted by Grandturk

Yep. Keep that little blue bottle handy. Anything going metal to metal gets thread locked.

Originally Posted by hlb14

kinda thought so, is losi's stuff any good or is a name brand the way to go? i ask because i built a durango once with the supplied threadlock and it sucked! had to take it all apart clean and reassemble

Originally Posted by Jimmy Lauri

Could one of you guys that has an Orion VSTpro installed in their truck (rear motor config.) post a pic of it with wires from the esc? Its tight in my truck, i just dont want to do something foolish. Need some visual help. This is my first kit build...went awesome..love it! And im a newb to electric powered rc. I looked on the first page at Frank Roots truck....but you cant see were he has the motor clocked and you cant see any of the wiring and how he layed the wires in the soldering tabs. Thanks, Jimmy

Originally Posted by kmags

I may have misunderstood but my Tekin does not allow 80* boost in sensored only mode.

The timing on the far left of the timing screen is for timing for unsensored motors or when in "dual" mode.

The center timing panel with the start and end rpms is for sensored only boost. And on the right is the afterburner (sensored only).

Originally Posted by isarctard

Jimmy, here are a couple images of how I have mine wired up. I have not ran it yet, so im not sure my switch or capacitors are in the best location but I'm soon to find out, it was the neatest way I could come up with though.

Originally Posted by weavty1

You did it right

Dustin Evans has his mounted the exact same way.






So, good job sir!

Originally Posted by Grandturk

Those are some interesting carbon fiber body mount braces. What's up???

Originally Posted by isarctard

Jimmy, here are a couple images of how I have mine wired up. I have not ran it yet, so im not sure my switch or capacitors are in the best location but I'm soon to find out, it was the neatest way I could come up with though.

Originally Posted by gmackhurry

Correct - I have the vegas software and the only change is that I changed from 80 to 20 boost. Meaning i'm still in default C2 dual mode I just slide the boost bar down to 20 and applied it.

I mentioned that I used to run in sensored only.

While I'm here... When in sensored only do you have to first put the boost timing to 100 and apply it before you switch modes? Maybe wrong thread but if you know.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by weavty1

Not made my TLR, that's all I can say as of this time

Originally Posted by Grandturk

Careful WeavyT - they stole your spring chart. I'd be afraid of TLR stealing your prototype body mount braces as well!

j/k folks