1LikesTLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
09-05-2012, 10:16 AM
#2341
Sounds exactly like what I experienced - my thrust washer was shattered as if it were ceramic - just little bits and a sliver of a center ring.
09-05-2012, 10:27 AM
#2342
Ok - so I have a question, and this comes after carefully following the ballcup issue. I see the trimming of the cups as well as trimming of the steering rack as the suggested solution.
So the issue seems to be a more extreme angle than what the ballcup was designed for.
My question is: do both ends of the turnbuckle/both ballcups suffer the issue, or just the steering rack end?
Then onto the servo saver/captured end topic, would a solution be to run a captured end only on the steering rack side, and retain the ballcup on the arm? That way the arm-side cup would popoff for severe impacts.
I'm assuming the captured ends work because they have a wider range of (up/down) movement.. not necessarily because they're captured. Otherwise, you'd just fatigue the plastic until it failed.
Maybe I'm reading too much into all of this!
So the issue seems to be a more extreme angle than what the ballcup was designed for.
My question is: do both ends of the turnbuckle/both ballcups suffer the issue, or just the steering rack end?
Then onto the servo saver/captured end topic, would a solution be to run a captured end only on the steering rack side, and retain the ballcup on the arm? That way the arm-side cup would popoff for severe impacts.
I'm assuming the captured ends work because they have a wider range of (up/down) movement.. not necessarily because they're captured. Otherwise, you'd just fatigue the plastic until it failed.
Maybe I'm reading too much into all of this!
The ballcups pop on either end (and for added fun often both at once). Mine have never done so just randomly, and always need a little bit of help (another truck or good clipping of a tube), but happens far easier than my SC10, or SC-R. Actually I can't remember popping ballcup on either of those ever.
I think it's an extreme angle/motion of range issue. To gain more clearance, I have rounded off the hex shape of the ballcups as well as trimmed the rack and chopping down the 'cup' as shown on the TLR blog posts. This works about 99% of the time.
09-05-2012, 10:32 AM
#2343
Got a question i need help. I am putting my tlr sct together and broke the long screw that hold the ball diff together it snaped like nothing i seen, Got one ordered but want be here till monday and i am racing saturday, so this said i have a xxxsct that I have a Tlr kit for it, the ball diff it that kit is it the same as the tlr sct one. I just need it to get me through this weekend. thanks for any help.
For those of us that have been running the 22 Buggy and/or 22T, as others have said, the solution to this as well as solving the broken thrust washer's is using the AE diff rebuild kit. I use them in my 22B as well as my 22SCT conversion and will probably put one in my 22SCT if I encounter problems with my 22sct diff. Here is the AE Diff rebuild kit Part # ASC7677 It's available at almost any hobby shop and it's a inexpensive solution. I use everything but the rings. In my 22 buggy, I'm using the TLR thrust balls and in my 22sct conversion, I decided to use the thrust balls that came with the AE rebuild kit and they don't seem to be having any problems, they'll probably just wear faster since they're not Tungsten Carbide. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...al-Rebuild-Kit
09-05-2012, 12:05 PM
#2345
Captured ends bind during travel. TLR cars are designed for performance, and we use ball cups to maxmize un-bound travel.
It will on both ends a litte, so trim both. The rack side needs a bit more, but this is why we trim the rack.
Ok - so I have a question, and this comes after carefully following the ballcup issue. I see the trimming of the cups as well as trimming of the steering rack as the suggested solution.
So the issue seems to be a more extreme angle than what the ballcup was designed for.
My question is: do both ends of the turnbuckle/both ballcups suffer the issue, or just the steering rack end?
Then onto the servo saver/captured end topic, would a solution be to run a captured end only on the steering rack side, and retain the ballcup on the arm? That way the arm-side cup would popoff for severe impacts.
I'm assuming the captured ends work because they have a wider range of (up/down) movement.. not necessarily because they're captured. Otherwise, you'd just fatigue the plastic until it failed.
Maybe I'm reading too much into all of this!
So the issue seems to be a more extreme angle than what the ballcup was designed for.
My question is: do both ends of the turnbuckle/both ballcups suffer the issue, or just the steering rack end?
Then onto the servo saver/captured end topic, would a solution be to run a captured end only on the steering rack side, and retain the ballcup on the arm? That way the arm-side cup would popoff for severe impacts.
I'm assuming the captured ends work because they have a wider range of (up/down) movement.. not necessarily because they're captured. Otherwise, you'd just fatigue the plastic until it failed.
Maybe I'm reading too much into all of this!
09-05-2012, 02:08 PM
#2346
Tech Regular
I keep seeing page after page of the ball cup issue. It is getting old.
After day 1 I trimmed the ball cups per the TLR blog and trimmed back the hex portion of the ball cups on both ends of the steering links. Since that time I have not had a single ball cup pop off. I have had some good crashes on the track and still no issues since doing the mod.
TLR posted the fix on their blog and it is also listed at the front of this thread. TLR also stated that they are redesigning the ball studs and ball cups and will make the parts available in the near future at no additional cost. Can we stop hashing this over and over now? It is muddying up the thread.
As far as not running a servo saver, as Frank said, non issue with good metal gear servo. I run the Savox 1258TG and no issues....nor am I worried about it.
After day 1 I trimmed the ball cups per the TLR blog and trimmed back the hex portion of the ball cups on both ends of the steering links. Since that time I have not had a single ball cup pop off. I have had some good crashes on the track and still no issues since doing the mod.
TLR posted the fix on their blog and it is also listed at the front of this thread. TLR also stated that they are redesigning the ball studs and ball cups and will make the parts available in the near future at no additional cost. Can we stop hashing this over and over now? It is muddying up the thread.
As far as not running a servo saver, as Frank said, non issue with good metal gear servo. I run the Savox 1258TG and no issues....nor am I worried about it.
09-05-2012, 02:11 PM
#2347
I keep seeing page after page of the ball cup issue. It is getting old.
After day 1 I trimmed the ball cups per the TLR blog and trimmed back the hex portion of the ball cups on both ends of the steering links. Since that time I have not had a single ball cup pop off. I have had some good crashes on the track and still no issues since doing the mod.
TLR posted the fix on their blog and it is also listed at the front of this thread. TLR also stated that they are redesigning the ball studs and ball cups and will make the parts available in the near future at no additional cost. Can we stop hashing this over and over now? It is muddying up the thread.
As far as not running a servo saver, as Frank said, non issue with good metal gear servo. I run the Savox 1258TG and no issues....nor am I worried about it.
After day 1 I trimmed the ball cups per the TLR blog and trimmed back the hex portion of the ball cups on both ends of the steering links. Since that time I have not had a single ball cup pop off. I have had some good crashes on the track and still no issues since doing the mod.
TLR posted the fix on their blog and it is also listed at the front of this thread. TLR also stated that they are redesigning the ball studs and ball cups and will make the parts available in the near future at no additional cost. Can we stop hashing this over and over now? It is muddying up the thread.
As far as not running a servo saver, as Frank said, non issue with good metal gear servo. I run the Savox 1258TG and no issues....nor am I worried about it.
09-05-2012, 02:15 PM
#2348
I keep seeing page after page of the ball cup issue. It is getting old.
After day 1 I trimmed the ball cups per the TLR blog and trimmed back the hex portion of the ball cups on both ends of the steering links. Since that time I have not had a single ball cup pop off. I have had some good crashes on the track and still no issues since doing the mod.
TLR posted the fix on their blog and it is also listed at the front of this thread. TLR also stated that they are redesigning the ball studs and ball cups and will make the parts available in the near future at no additional cost. Can we stop hashing this over and over now? It is muddying up the thread.
As far as not running a servo saver, as Frank said, non issue with good metal gear servo. I run the Savox 1258TG and no issues....nor am I worried about it.
After day 1 I trimmed the ball cups per the TLR blog and trimmed back the hex portion of the ball cups on both ends of the steering links. Since that time I have not had a single ball cup pop off. I have had some good crashes on the track and still no issues since doing the mod.
TLR posted the fix on their blog and it is also listed at the front of this thread. TLR also stated that they are redesigning the ball studs and ball cups and will make the parts available in the near future at no additional cost. Can we stop hashing this over and over now? It is muddying up the thread.
As far as not running a servo saver, as Frank said, non issue with good metal gear servo. I run the Savox 1258TG and no issues....nor am I worried about it.
09-05-2012, 02:48 PM
#2350
I keep seeing page after page of the ball cup issue. It is getting old.
After day 1 I trimmed the ball cups per the TLR blog and trimmed back the hex portion of the ball cups on both ends of the steering links. Since that time I have not had a single ball cup pop off. I have had some good crashes on the track and still no issues since doing the mod.
TLR posted the fix on their blog and it is also listed at the front of this thread. TLR also stated that they are redesigning the ball studs and ball cups and will make the parts available in the near future at no additional cost. Can we stop hashing this over and over now? It is muddying up the thread.
As far as not running a servo saver, as Frank said, non issue with good metal gear servo. I run the Savox 1258TG and no issues....nor am I worried about it.
After day 1 I trimmed the ball cups per the TLR blog and trimmed back the hex portion of the ball cups on both ends of the steering links. Since that time I have not had a single ball cup pop off. I have had some good crashes on the track and still no issues since doing the mod.
TLR posted the fix on their blog and it is also listed at the front of this thread. TLR also stated that they are redesigning the ball studs and ball cups and will make the parts available in the near future at no additional cost. Can we stop hashing this over and over now? It is muddying up the thread.
As far as not running a servo saver, as Frank said, non issue with good metal gear servo. I run the Savox 1258TG and no issues....nor am I worried about it.
BTW, I did both mod's as well and ran most of Monday (blue grv) and did not pop of the ball cups once with some pretty hard crashes including hitting a parked 1/8 buggy at full speed at the end of the straight. The mod definitely works... Do the mod and you will be good to go.
Now, lets change the conversation to how good this truck is !! OMG !!! Way to go Frank and all the TLR team. This one is almost perfect right out of the box...
09-05-2012, 03:04 PM
#2351
We found an easy way to change to captured rod ends. Using Traxxas part TRA3643. Still need to dremel the rack and run 1mm shim on spindle to avoid bind. This allows for full suspension travel with no bind. No more concerns about running close to the pipe. Here is a link to the part.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...k-Turnbuckle-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...k-Turnbuckle-2
09-05-2012, 03:05 PM
#2352
Has anyone raced with truck and tried the motor in both positions? Just curious about that.
09-05-2012, 03:10 PM
#2353
09-05-2012, 03:27 PM
#2354
Guy in my club tried mid mount just to see what it was like. Jumped great but had no rear traction as you would expect on a low - medium bit track.
I just started back racing and brought the 22t. Had the steering pop the ball cup first time i tried it (turned in on the pipe) since then it has had 4 race meets with out popping off.
Brought the 22 sct and ran it tuesday night for the first time. Straight out of the box to the track with no practice and finished in the Amain. Except for a couple race meets with the 22t i had not raced in 18 months, i think that shows just how good this truck is.
I just started back racing and brought the 22t. Had the steering pop the ball cup first time i tried it (turned in on the pipe) since then it has had 4 race meets with out popping off.
Brought the 22 sct and ran it tuesday night for the first time. Straight out of the box to the track with no practice and finished in the Amain. Except for a couple race meets with the 22t i had not raced in 18 months, i think that shows just how good this truck is.
09-05-2012, 03:33 PM
#2355