Clay Compound Tires - which ones last longest?
#1
Clay Compound Tires - which ones last longest?
Okay so my track is indoors and mainly made up of loose dirt that takes forever to start to pack after a layout change, and it always has loam on top when it finally does start to pack a little. Recently it was sprayed with Soiltac which is like a polymer that bonds the soil together, kind of like glue. The track is really hard and abrasive now, and gets a very light dust from all of the small divots on the jump faces. It gets sprayed every 1-2 weeks with vht traction compound, but because of the dust buildup, slicks wont work by the time the races start.
I've tried a lot of different tires, and it seems like the clay compounds are working the best without having to use tire dope. Softer compounds like M3, or JC blues seem too "squishy", it's hard to carry any corner speed without the tire feeling like its rolling over on its self causing the car to hook. Orange compound seems too hard and doesn't provide enough traction unless you dope, but that wears off before the race is over and you're back to driving on ice. I tried JC white fronts paired with the orange rears on my 2w buggy, and they seemed to push, so I haven't tried white rears yet. Losi pink I had to use dope to get traction as good as the JC gold compound, and it caused it to wear too fast.
Here are my Gold Barcodes that I glued up yesterday. I have probably 3 packs worth of practice and (4) 5min races, so about 35-40 minutes of total drivetime on them:
So Gold Barcodes last 1 race day, but have awesome traction until the tread is almost gone. I have some MC Suburbs on the way that I'm going to be trying this week also. I race 2 days out of the week and practice 1, so I will be going through a lot of tires, but I wanted to know in everyone elses experience what clay compounds seem to last the longest? Or are there any other suggestions on different compounds to try? I'm open to anything, it's just getting expensive buying tires every week!
Thanks
I've tried a lot of different tires, and it seems like the clay compounds are working the best without having to use tire dope. Softer compounds like M3, or JC blues seem too "squishy", it's hard to carry any corner speed without the tire feeling like its rolling over on its self causing the car to hook. Orange compound seems too hard and doesn't provide enough traction unless you dope, but that wears off before the race is over and you're back to driving on ice. I tried JC white fronts paired with the orange rears on my 2w buggy, and they seemed to push, so I haven't tried white rears yet. Losi pink I had to use dope to get traction as good as the JC gold compound, and it caused it to wear too fast.
Here are my Gold Barcodes that I glued up yesterday. I have probably 3 packs worth of practice and (4) 5min races, so about 35-40 minutes of total drivetime on them:
So Gold Barcodes last 1 race day, but have awesome traction until the tread is almost gone. I have some MC Suburbs on the way that I'm going to be trying this week also. I race 2 days out of the week and practice 1, so I will be going through a lot of tires, but I wanted to know in everyone elses experience what clay compounds seem to last the longest? Or are there any other suggestions on different compounds to try? I'm open to anything, it's just getting expensive buying tires every week!
Thanks
#2
Tech Champion
It’s very track dependent, but Panther Switches in their Clay compound seem to wear better at many tracks. They seem to have good forward bite, a little less side though. They have a new Rattler 2.0 that is more comparable to a Bar Code/Suburb, don’t have enough experience with them yet, but hopefully they will wear well too.
#3
I was going to suggest V1 Barcodes in Gold...
Change the track surface (leave it loamy and use flip-outs or some other pin tire). If a set of tires lasts one race day that track is going to fail before long. That'll get too expensive for most guys in a hurry.
Change the track surface (leave it loamy and use flip-outs or some other pin tire). If a set of tires lasts one race day that track is going to fail before long. That'll get too expensive for most guys in a hurry.
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
Too many variables in track conditions to really recommend ie: moist with plenty of traction in the am, by the time racing starts at night, track is hard as a rock and blown out = not good management of their racing surface. Just hope whomever's track you race on knows how to groom. If the original posters tires only last one day? I agree they will fail before long. Tires get to be expensive very quickly.
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
Okay so my track is indoors and mainly made up of loose dirt that takes forever to start to pack after a layout change, and it always has loam on top when it finally does start to pack a little. Recently it was sprayed with Soiltac which is like a polymer that bonds the soil together, kind of like glue. The track is really hard and abrasive now, and gets a very light dust from all of the small divots on the jump faces. It gets sprayed every 1-2 weeks with vht traction compound, but because of the dust buildup, slicks wont work by the time the races start.
I've tried a lot of different tires, and it seems like the clay compounds are working the best without having to use tire dope. Softer compounds like M3, or JC blues seem too "squishy", it's hard to carry any corner speed without the tire feeling like its rolling over on its self causing the car to hook. Orange compound seems too hard and doesn't provide enough traction unless you dope, but that wears off before the race is over and you're back to driving on ice. I tried JC white fronts paired with the orange rears on my 2w buggy, and they seemed to push, so I haven't tried white rears yet. Losi pink I had to use dope to get traction as good as the JC gold compound, and it caused it to wear too fast.
Here are my Gold Barcodes that I glued up yesterday. I have probably 3 packs worth of practice and (4) 5min races, so about 35-40 minutes of total drivetime on them:
So Gold Barcodes last 1 race day, but have awesome traction until the tread is almost gone. I have some MC Suburbs on the way that I'm going to be trying this week also. I race 2 days out of the week and practice 1, so I will be going through a lot of tires, but I wanted to know in everyone elses experience what clay compounds seem to last the longest? Or are there any other suggestions on different compounds to try? I'm open to anything, it's just getting expensive buying tires every week!
Thanks
I've tried a lot of different tires, and it seems like the clay compounds are working the best without having to use tire dope. Softer compounds like M3, or JC blues seem too "squishy", it's hard to carry any corner speed without the tire feeling like its rolling over on its self causing the car to hook. Orange compound seems too hard and doesn't provide enough traction unless you dope, but that wears off before the race is over and you're back to driving on ice. I tried JC white fronts paired with the orange rears on my 2w buggy, and they seemed to push, so I haven't tried white rears yet. Losi pink I had to use dope to get traction as good as the JC gold compound, and it caused it to wear too fast.
Here are my Gold Barcodes that I glued up yesterday. I have probably 3 packs worth of practice and (4) 5min races, so about 35-40 minutes of total drivetime on them:
So Gold Barcodes last 1 race day, but have awesome traction until the tread is almost gone. I have some MC Suburbs on the way that I'm going to be trying this week also. I race 2 days out of the week and practice 1, so I will be going through a lot of tires, but I wanted to know in everyone elses experience what clay compounds seem to last the longest? Or are there any other suggestions on different compounds to try? I'm open to anything, it's just getting expensive buying tires every week!
Thanks
#6
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Last edited by umm winning; 05-27-2012 at 08:04 PM.
#9
Well you seem to be running a mod motor, expect the tire wear
It’s very track dependent, but Panther Switches in their Clay compound seem to wear better at many tracks. They seem to have good forward bite, a little less side though. They have a new Rattler 2.0 that is more comparable to a Bar Code/Suburb, don’t have enough experience with them yet, but hopefully they will wear well too.
I wish it was still loose and loamy, I never had a problem with it other than my cars got dirtier (ocd). But everyone hated it because they "had no traction". They just didn't know how to setup their car and didn't care to learn so it must have been the dirts fault. I'm hoping it changes soon to a clay mixture, this soiltac stuff was cool and all at first but now that the surface is breaking up and its getting a film of dust, it's totally inconsistent. one corner you'll be on rails and the next one you wash out. Particularly corners immediately following a jump, where cars bottom out and make divots. The owner doesn't really have anything to do with track maintenance on the indoor offroad track. I don't really think he cares about it too much. It's up to a few choice racers to get together and make things happen. Kind of a bad deal, but I try not to complain because at least I have somewhere to race within 20 minutes of my house.
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Has anyone tried hole shots or flip outs? If there's a dust layer the bar tires aren't going to hook up that well. Seems like a softer insert would produce more traction also. As far as the wear rate, I'm shocked that golds wear that quick, I ran a pair of gold V1 barcodes for 2 months and had to take a belt sander to them to get the center bars worn down.
Maybe Hot Bodies Red Beams or megabites. The Hot Bodies Rubber seems to last a long time and have more traction than other brands, it's just hard to find pinks right now.
#12
He's running 1/10 scale buggy, not 8th scale.
Has anyone tried hole shots or flip outs? If there's a dust layer the bar tires aren't going to hook up that well. Seems like a softer insert would produce more traction also. As far as the wear rate, I'm shocked that golds wear that quick, I ran a pair of gold V1 barcodes for 2 months and had to take a belt sander to them to get the center bars worn down.
Maybe Hot Bodies Red Beams or megabites. The Hot Bodies Rubber seems to last a long time and have more traction than other brands, it's just hard to find pinks right now.
Has anyone tried hole shots or flip outs? If there's a dust layer the bar tires aren't going to hook up that well. Seems like a softer insert would produce more traction also. As far as the wear rate, I'm shocked that golds wear that quick, I ran a pair of gold V1 barcodes for 2 months and had to take a belt sander to them to get the center bars worn down.
Maybe Hot Bodies Red Beams or megabites. The Hot Bodies Rubber seems to last a long time and have more traction than other brands, it's just hard to find pinks right now.
#13
He's running 1/10 scale buggy, not 8th scale.
Has anyone tried hole shots or flip outs? If there's a dust layer the bar tires aren't going to hook up that well. Seems like a softer insert would produce more traction also. As far as the wear rate, I'm shocked that golds wear that quick, I ran a pair of gold V1 barcodes for 2 months and had to take a belt sander to them to get the center bars worn down.
Maybe Hot Bodies Red Beams or megabites. The Hot Bodies Rubber seems to last a long time and have more traction than other brands, it's just hard to find pinks right now.
Has anyone tried hole shots or flip outs? If there's a dust layer the bar tires aren't going to hook up that well. Seems like a softer insert would produce more traction also. As far as the wear rate, I'm shocked that golds wear that quick, I ran a pair of gold V1 barcodes for 2 months and had to take a belt sander to them to get the center bars worn down.
Maybe Hot Bodies Red Beams or megabites. The Hot Bodies Rubber seems to last a long time and have more traction than other brands, it's just hard to find pinks right now.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-V2-Inserts-2
#14
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Your comment sounds like you don't think they make 1/8 tazers?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-V2-Inserts-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-V2-Inserts-2
#15
Aka rebars have good grip and more tread. I ran the softs on the front of my buggy all season. They might be worth a try.
Honestly though regular watering of the track would help with the tire wear situation.
Honestly though regular watering of the track would help with the tire wear situation.