bigugly

Is anyone running the Orion R8.1 in a EB48 yet? I just bought one and it looks like it will be a tight fit with the monster switch and capacitor it comes with. Any suggestions or pictures would be very helpful.

Mizchief

If converting for the sake of bashing you could always just get DE 17mm SCT wheels and the body mounts. May have to cut the wheel wells out a little more

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

Thanks Eric. I appreciate the compliment.

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

Chris's stuff is great, but he should also come out and race eBuggy Lite with us again!

Seasick78

So my center diff spur gear was warped upon initial assembly. I had a spare so I installed it with equal TQ on each of the 4 bolts. It's also worth pointing out that I only got them snug, I did not crank down on them. It seems as if the diff case itself isn't cut flat. The new sour gear is warped as well and it was perfectly flat prior to installation.

Anyone else have this issue?

Tekno - Is this something that could be covered by warranty?

mkl

iTrader: (7)

the cup may be off, but have tried to sand the cup edge smooth? I know it won't make it parallel if it is truly off, but if you sand it on a flat surface with some fine grit paper- it might take of some flashing allowing the spur to sit flat. Also, I "de-burred" or chamfered the edge of the screw holes in the cup. When the screw is inserted it can pull up some plastic at the edge. it helps make the cup more flat.

Seasick78

I'll consider that. Thanks.

Seasick78

I've seen some old settings listed on the Tekin site... Wondering if anyone has any good Tekin Esc settings you'd like to share? This is my first Tekin ESC. Running an EB48.2 with RX8 G2 and 1900kv T8 G2 on 17T pinion. Short to medium sized dirt tracks with medium to loose surface.

- Drag brake?
- Brake Strength?
- Timing Profile or advance?
- CL?
- Neutral Width?

I know what each setting controls, just wondering what y'all have had success with.

mkl

iTrader: (7)

You don't want any drag brake. If anything some from a nitro background will set a little push to allow the buggy to coast a little bit. Drag brake will give you brakes as soon as you let off the throttle, instant nose down in the air.
Brake strength is something that you set for personal preference. Randy at Tekin suggested I set my brake strength maybe about 80% on the ESC and adjust to suit the track on the TX. The brakes are so strong that you don't need 100% brake. The tracks I run on are fairly slick so I set my brakes a little lower to prevent lock up.
No timing with the T8. Not recommended and not needed.
CL is also personal preference. You would run lower CL on Slicker tracks, maybe 70-75%. Just depends on how much traction you get out of a corner.
Neutral width depends on how touchy you like you throttle and the capabilities of the TX. Lower if you want the throttle to engage the instant you touch the trigger. I set mine to the default or a couple of points lower. Not much difference.
Hope this helps.

Seasick78

Thank you very much!

vandalzzz

17t pinion? I think usable range for 1900kv is 18-20t for small-to-large tracks, with 17t you'll meet undergear

Seasick78

Are you sure? I have an 18t, 19t, 20t and 21t also. I had originally planned on 18T but someone said the exact opposite as you and said to "go with the 17, it's all you'll ever need."

Easy swap... Can anyone please confirm?

Jones Auto

iTrader: (2)

+1 on the shock tools. They work great!

WonTonsChicken

iTrader: (43)

Best way to hash this out would be to go out on a practice day, and run for the length of a normal qual, and then a normal Main. Take temps after each, then adjust accordingly.

I try and keep temps below 170°

slimgravy

iTrader: (5)

i run 19 indoors and out with a tekin 1900. I think its a sweet spot, as I never feel like i need any thing more.