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Tekno RC EB48 Thread

Old 05-24-2012, 06:26 PM
  #556  
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Originally Posted by muzzytt
Anyone think a 1700 tekin t8 would be to much for this buggy? As I've already got that motor for another project?
You might need to run it with some timing advance, but it should work OK.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by teknorc
You might need to run it with some timing advance, but it should work OK.
Thanks!

Btw any clues as to when it will release to the market?

Thx
Muz
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by muzzytt
Thanks!

Btw any clues as to when it will release to the market?

Thx
Muz
that info is classified.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by muzzytt
Anyone think a 1700 tekin t8 would be to much for this buggy? As I've already got that motor for another project?
I run that combo on 4s with a Tekno converted Mugen (heavier than this buggy). It's all the power you'd need for any track that isn't a bunch of 200+ft straightaways strung together. Great combo.
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidka
I run that combo on 4s with a Tekno converted Mugen (heavier than this buggy). It's all the power you'd need for any track that isn't a bunch of 200+ft straightaways strung together. Great combo.
+1

I run a 1400kv system in 5S which provides about the same rpm as a 1700kv 4S and I've more power than needed for any track. That's the absolute best compromise I found in termes of power delivery from the motor, sometimes I add 10 degrees of timing for high grip tracks but that's it
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by teknorc
We can't say 100% right now. Manufacturing a whole car is tricky and delays are common. That said, everything is in production and we're on schedule for a late June, early July release as of today.
found the answer i was looking for ...
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:30 PM
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hello tekno!!
i have some questions:

The shocks works without shock boots?

Parts will be available when the kit released or it will a nightmare to get spares like my last car (dex210).?
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:55 PM
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do you still need to cut the shaft on the motor to run the electri-clutch setup?
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:23 PM
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Great Article under the blog. Cant wait to read more.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by patxeik
hello tekno!!
i have some questions:

The shocks works without shock boots?

Parts will be available when the kit released or it will a nightmare to get spares like my last car (dex210).?
Yes, the shocks work just fine with or without shock boots. We recommend running them. They don't interfere with the suspension action as much as some other cars.

The spare parts order is already placed and will be shipped right after the kits. So we should be good to go .
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin
do you still need to cut the shaft on the motor to run the electri-clutch setup?
Only if the shaft is really long. We haven't had to do that with the EB48 yet.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tdt1805
Great Article under the blog. Cant wait to read more.
Thanks. Here's a link for others if anyone wants to read it.

http://www.teknorc.com/news/
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by teknorc
Thanks. Here's a link for others if anyone wants to read it.

http://www.teknorc.com/news/
Nice blog guys and nice race, car looks so stable and dialed.
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:25 AM
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I realize this may be a hair-splitting question, but I am looking at this buggy with more interest than any other, and would like to know any honest input about this particular question:

If anybody who has driven the EB 48, and driven an Associated B4.1 with lots of toe-in and a very nice and high rear roll center (with the chassis ball stud mount shaved down to lower the mounting position, and/or a longer camber link), can you tell me whether I will be able to make the car handle like that? With the outstanding characteristics of basically a locked-in rear end. I simply can't hardly stand tail-happy cars. It would be so frustrating to me to never be able to really open the taps with my cars (even a 17.5!), as they would fish-tail even when I was gentle with the throttle coming out of corners; no matter what tires, diff setting, slipper setting, or even 4.0 of toe-in. I was almost ready to get rid of my B4.1 until I did the mod to lower the rear ball stud mount and raise the roll center dramatically. I absolutely loved the car after I did that, and actually had to dial in a shorter wheelbase to make the car rotate a little more. I want a car whose rear will not break loose through corners, on-power or off-power, but will break loose slightly, and control-ably, with brake input. That works perfectly with the way I naturally drive. So my question to anyone with the patience to answer is- will I be able to achieve that kind of wonderfully locked-in rear end with the EB 48? I would really appreciate some honest input on this.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tq_danpatterson
I realize this may be a hair-splitting question, but I am looking at this buggy with more interest than any other, and would like to know any honest input about this particular question:

If anybody who has driven the EB 48, and driven an Associated B4.1 with lots of toe-in and a very nice and high rear roll center (with the chassis ball stud mount shaved down to lower the mounting position, and/or a longer camber link), can you tell me whether I will be able to make the car handle like that? With the outstanding characteristics of basically a locked-in rear end. I simply can't hardly stand tail-happy cars. It would be so frustrating to me to never be able to really open the taps with my cars (even a 17.5!), as they would fish-tail even when I was gentle with the throttle coming out of corners; no matter what tires, diff setting, slipper setting, or even 4.0 of toe-in. I was almost ready to get rid of my B4.1 until I did the mod to lower the rear ball stud mount and raise the roll center dramatically. I absolutely loved the car after I did that, and actually had to dial in a shorter wheelbase to make the car rotate a little more. I want a car whose rear will not break loose through corners, on-power or off-power, but will break loose slightly, and control-ably, with brake input. That works perfectly with the way I naturally drive. So my question to anyone with the patience to answer is- will I be able to achieve that kind of wonderfully locked-in rear end with the EB 48? I would really appreciate some honest input on this.
It's hard to compare a 2WD 1/10th buggy to a 4WD 1/8th scale. Most of the same principles are at work but the speeds and rates are all different between the scales (faster in 1/10th). Also in 2WD, you obviously don't have the front wheels pulling you around with 2 extra diffs distributing power to the wheels.

For 4WD and on the EB48, the setting I think you'll find that can achieve a very locked in rear end on-power while creating more off-power steering is anti-squat. Anti-squat is kind of a weird adjustment because it gives you better traction on-power and better off-power steering (turn in). Other adjustments that give you better rear traction usually come at the cost of decreased off-power steering.

Increasing anti-squat almost acts like having a softer rear spring on-power without squatting (more traction, and will square up better) while acting like a stiffer spring off-power (more forward weight transfer and more turn in). Less anti-squat results in better traction off-power (less forward weight transfer) traction (more stable entering a turn) while decreasing forward traction.

More rotation off-power ultimately results in lower corner speed, so finding a setting that matches your track is important. If there are lots of 180's, more anti-squat is probably better. If there are sweeping turns, less is probably better.

The EB48 has the same adjustments (and a few others) as most of the 8th scale buggies so you can get it to do whatever you need it to on the track.

Not sure if this answers your question, but the options are there to play with on this buggy.
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