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Tekno RC EB48 Thread

Old 08-30-2012, 10:15 AM
  #2146  
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Originally Posted by teknorc
1. o-rings on the shock caps will not be included anymore.
2. I think we're keeping the diff gasket as is. Once positioned and pushed into place it works very well.
3. After looking into this, the wrong screws were packed into the kits. Slightly shorter screws will be in the next run and this issue will be gone.

Thanks for the good words. We worked very hard on this project and to see our customers having fun and having success driving it has been a real treat.
For those of us with kits in route, can you give us the dimensions of the shorter screws?

Also what is the solution on the center diff?
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by sramos420
ok so i have a question for dan or anyone with input. i rebuilt the shocks as dan did per his setup sheet. only difference is i didnt have enough 35w oil to fill the rears up so i just filled them with 30w for what i had. 35w fr/30w rr. i used the springs he suggested, pink fr/yellow rr. i was wondering if this is to dramatic or should i take the 30 out of the rear and fill with 35w because i got more yesterday. havent ran it yet. running it saturday. should i run it and see how it is or should i change it now cuz ill be better off? also thinking bout changing the ackerman setting to rear. already took the anti-squat completely out.....suggestions......?
I would just run it. If the rear feels too springy or you are bottoming out a lot, go up in oil.

Last edited by teknorc; 08-30-2012 at 11:47 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:22 AM
  #2148  
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Originally Posted by Krafcik
For those of us with kits in route, can you give us the dimensions of the shorter screws?

Also what is the solution on the center diff?
M4x16mm button head will fix the issue. The kit was packaged with M4x18mm.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:39 AM
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Danny, I cant say enough about how great it is that you are hear listening to everyone's feedback and taking suggestions. That is HUGE in today's rc market. Just awesome. Thank you!!!
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Krafcik
For those of us with kits in route, can you give us the dimensions of the shorter screws?

Also what is the solution on the center diff?
The center diff just needs to be broken in. It is very smooth when broken in as per Tekno instructions. Mine was a little tight but broke in and was very smooth after a 30 second break in. If it breaks in that quickly, to me that is better than having it smooth from the start and getting sloppy afterwards.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:46 PM
  #2151  
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I'm just about to start bag I which has those M4x18mm (tkr1448) so if i just cut off 2 mm from those screws i should be fine? I dont have any M4x16mm around.

Love this thread, love this buggy, so excited to get this together!
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jhautz
Danny, I cant say enough about how great it is that you are hear listening to everyone's feedback and taking suggestions. That is HUGE in today's rc market. Just awesome. Thank you!!!
+1,000,000
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by howse
I'm just about to start bag I which has those M4x18mm (tkr1448) so if i just cut off 2 mm from those screws i should be fine? I dont have any M4x16mm around.

Love this thread, love this buggy, so excited to get this together!
That will work.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jhautz
Danny, I cant say enough about how great it is that you are hear listening to everyone's feedback and taking suggestions. That is HUGE in today's rc market. Just awesome. Thank you!!!
We love hearing this and we can't thank our customers enough for supporting us.
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:46 PM
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Danny-

I see AMain is starting to stock some parts. However they do not have the body yet. Any idea when the bodies will be shipped out to re-sellers? Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bcjoldbq
I am experiencing a rub in the EB48 steering where the bearing carrier seems to rub on the part that is connected to it at about 1/2 point of the steering throw when turning left and right. Beyond that point steering is perfectly free. There's a YouTube video (search 'EB48 front steering locking up') by Ironwolf1974 that shows this as well and refences a post on RCTECH, but I cannot find the post.

Anyway, I believe my assembly is correct per manual but it was late......I'll get back to it tonight.

Has anyone else come across this issue while assembling the kit?
Yes I had this same issue. I just lightly dremmeled the spindles at the point they were binding, and it works very smooth.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by G SquareD
Danny-

I see AMain is starting to stock some parts. However they do not have the body yet. Any idea when the bodies will be shipped out to re-sellers? Thanks.
I believe they have them in stock as of yesterday, but it will take them a couple days to put them up on the site.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:49 PM
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I went to the track and ran a couple more packs this afternoon. Our track is hard packed,smooth and almost blue groove in places. There are two big sweeping turns, one goes over about a 10' rise.

I started with Danny's setup, but with the kit springs and roll bars. I didn't like the short rear camber links, they are too twitchy for me, but I wanted to get a bit more on power steering. I tried all four lengths and settled on the third hole out. I moved the rear shocks all the way out on the tower and that helped a little too.

I still have the pistons in the normal position and 35/30 oils. We have one jump that launches the cars up about 8' to a flat landing. I think I could use a little more pack there so I want to go up to 35 in the rear too. If the track is pretty smooth should I flip the pistons or leave them in the stock position?

Thanks,


Chris
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
I went to the track and ran a couple more packs this afternoon. Our track is hard packed,smooth and almost blue groove in places. There are two big sweeping turns, one goes over about a 10' rise.

I started with Danny's setup, but with the kit springs and roll bars. I didn't like the short rear camber links, they are too twitchy for me, but I wanted to get a bit more on power steering. I tried all four lengths and settled on the third hole out. I moved the rear shocks all the way out on the tower and that helped a little too.

I still have the pistons in the normal position and 35/30 oils. We have one jump that launches the cars up about 8' to a flat landing. I think I could use a little more pack there so I want to go up to 35 in the rear too. If the track is pretty smooth should I flip the pistons or leave them in the stock position?

Thanks,


Chris
If you've got a 8' flat lander at your track, definitely go up in oil and run the pistons in the stock orientation. That will create more pack and land better.
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:46 PM
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FYI,

We fixed the tab order on the editable pdf so it's a little easier to fill out.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...etup_Sheet.pdf
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