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Tekno RC EB48 Thread

Old 08-28-2012, 01:58 PM
  #2056  
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Just checked, The Serpent springs are slightly longer than the Tekno but will work fine.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:09 PM
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Danny,

Would you mind posting the rates for the EB48 springs?

Thanks,


Chris
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
Danny,

Would you mind posting the rates for the EB48 springs?

Thanks,


Chris
We don't measure by rate although if you find a spring rate calculator you could plug in some values. We measure with wire thickness and # of turns similar to how Kyosho and Mugen rate their springs. So you could compare to those. Length doesn't matter, but inside diameter does. We're not sure if our diameter is the same as Mugen and Kyosho, but it's very close.
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Old 08-28-2012, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jhautz
When I stripped my spur last weekend I tried the AE spur and the Mugen spur. Both were to large. the Tekno Diff cup and screw hole pattern was smaller than those other cars. However.... Either of those full diffs would have dropped into the Tekno car. It would have required some shimming because the bearing to bearing length on the Tekno is a little longer than the AE or Mugen. The other issue was the 46T spur gears from the other brands just barely didn't clear the top plate on the Tekno. So I would have needed a taller top plate. Mugen does make a 44T gear that probably would have let the full mugen diff fit with the bearings shimmed.

Not sure if this is what you were asking, but its what I learned trying to patch it up last weekend with no spares.
Yup, that is exactly what I was looking for. BTW, If a Losi diff would fit they make a plastic 43t spur that has a separate hub. I use them on my RC8 (whole center diff is Losi). Losi's bolt pattern is smaller than the AE one as is the diff housing. Just stuff to keep in m mind until Tekno's parts availability comes up and I am pretty sure it will
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Old 08-28-2012, 03:24 PM
  #2060  
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Originally Posted by jhautz
When I stripped my spur last weekend I tried the AE spur and the Mugen spur. Both were to large. the Tekno Diff cup and screw hole pattern was smaller than those other cars. However.... Either of those full diffs would have dropped into the Tekno car. It would have required some shimming because the bearing to bearing length on the Tekno is a little longer than the AE or Mugen. The other issue was the 46T spur gears from the other brands just barely didn't clear the top plate on the Tekno. So I would have needed a taller top plate. Mugen does make a 44T gear that probably would have let the full mugen diff fit with the bearings shimmed.

Not sure if this is what you were asking, but its what I learned trying to patch it up last weekend with no spares.
What did you do to strip the spur gear?
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Old 08-28-2012, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by R.Shackleford
What did you do to strip the spur gear?
Ran it with the traction drive on the plastic spur and ran a track with a HUGE double to a landing on a table top. Very harsh landing. Tekno recommends the steel spur with the traction drive but I thought I could get a way with it. Probably could have if that huge jump wasn't so dang tempting to go for.....
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:01 PM
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We have put up a new page for setup sheets.

http://www.teknorc.com/support/eb48-setup-sheets/

For user submissions, I think it will be best to simply email us with the file and we'll put it up. I think it will be great to get some good setups for as many tracks as possible. But if we are getting a lot of similar setups from the same track/locale we might not post all of them (sorry).

The blank editable/savable sheet is there too (we still need to fix the tab order though).
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by protc3
Just checked, The Serpent springs are slightly longer than the Tekno but will work fine.
Thank you. I ended up ordering from amain so I could get tekno springs. My son has the 811 so it's good to know we can do some trial and error exchanges!

We drove both back to back this weekend then raced each other on tight indoor hardpack clay with dust outside line. The 811 was much easier to drive and more planted but I attribute that to:
  • Stock setup was too loose at first, back sliding on corner entry AND pushing on any power at all. Had to break for corner and coast until straight.
  • Shortened rear camber link helped rear but still pushing
  • I was running a non sensored castle 1415 w/ 15 tooth pinion. Too fast and not enough throttle control
  • Tamed the motor through the radio a bit

I beat him in the race but lost to the fast guys (I'm not one)

Tuning plans to try 1 by 1:
  • go down to 13 tooth pinion and tune ESC (R8 Pro)
  • remove anti squat
  • rear hole on Ackerman
  • Lighter front springs
  • Shorten chassis

Also have a T8 1900 to try but wanted to be different with small castle motor. Winning is more important than being different!

Loved the car despite tough first day. Stripped the servo horn. Otherwise car is tough.

Last edited by 3racers; 08-28-2012 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:18 PM
  #2064  
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Definately remove the antisquat to tighten up the rear. I wouldnt lengthen the wheelbase as that is going to make the car rotate better and possibly make it more loose. Increasing Ackerman going to the rear hole on the rack worked really good. It took a little edge off of the entry steering and increased on power steering. To get rear bite, shorten the car. To increase steering on power, shorten rear camber link and maybe a little stiffer rear spring. I just also swapped out diff oils in front and center. I went to 7k front and 5k center. The stock shock oil was too light for my local track so I bumped up to 40 front and 35 rear. I think I still may be a little light though. I will see this weekend.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:21 PM
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Ran my second race with this car (only set up change is zero anti squat, 32.5/27.5 shock oil) and TQ by a whole lap. Never lost the lead in the A main and finished first by 10-15 seconds on a mid sized indoor track.

With my losi 8ight-2.0E I was a middle of the pack driver, the EB48 has shaved a second+ off each lap. Two other people are planning on buying one after driving mine.

Just thought I would share
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:23 PM
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Thanks Jason. I'll let you know how it works out.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:24 PM
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From my experience in TC onroad racing, anti squat always made the car turn in hard and then plant the rear on power. This, if the track doesnt suit it, will make the car push on power. Some cars like different thing. My 811E was un drivable for me when i ran anti squat. The EB-48 didnt seem to mind. Im going to try it both ways, just to see what I like better but as of now, I feel the car gets into the corner great. If the diff oil changes and camber link changes I made dont increase the on power steering, Im just going to remove the anti squat.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 3racers
Thanks Jason. I'll let you know how it works out.
No problem buddy. Its nice to share info and experiences with set up as it will save us all a lot of bench time.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by james633
Ran my second race with this car (only set up change is zero anti squat, 32.5/27.5 shock oil) and TQ by a whole lap. Never lost the lead in the A main and finished first by 10-15 seconds on a mid sized indoor track.

With my losi 8ight-2.0E I was a middle of the pack driver, the EB48 has shaved a second+ off each lap. Two other people are planning on buying one after driving mine.

Just thought I would share
Damn, that is huge. I cant wait to see my lap times this weekend with the car. I know it has to be faster. If feels faster on the track, stop watch says so, now I need the lap counter to confirm.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 3racers
Thank you. I ended up ordering from amain so I could get tekno springs. My son has the 811 so it's good to know we can do some trial and error exchanges!

We drove both back to back this weekend then raced each other on tight indoor hardpack clay with dust outside line. The 811 was much easier to drive and more planted but I attribute that to:
  • Stock setup was too loose at first, back sliding on corner entry AND pushing on any power at all. Had to break for corner and coast until straight.
  • Shortened rear camber link helped rear but still pushing
  • I was running a non sensored castle 1415 w/ 15 tooth pinion. Too fast and not enough throttle control
  • Tamed the motor through the radio a bit

I beat him in the race but lost to the fast guys (I'm not one)

Tuning plans to try 1 by 1:
  • go down to 13 tooth pinion and tune ESC (R8 Pro)
  • remove anti squat
  • rear hole on Ackerman
  • Lighter front springs
  • Shorten chassis

Also have a T8 1900 to try but wanted to be different with small castle motor. Winning is more important than being different!

Loved the car despite tough first day. Stripped the servo horn. Otherwise car is tough.
Any advice as to the order I should try each of the tuning options I'm planning? The pinion is a must. Are any of the others (or another option) more effective? No need to try them all if the first one is the silver bullet.
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