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Old 06-27-2016, 03:00 PM   #1231
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Glad it went well at the end. Love the black and orange. Big San Francisco Giants fan, so great color scheme.

Read the DESC210 first page thread on RcTech. It tells you how to shim the front and rear hubs so they don't bind and come loose. Once I did the shimming, never lost a wheel unless I busted something.

Any questions, just ask..
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:09 PM   #1232
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Glad it went well at the end.
Well it didn't really as i ended up using the FTX (got to admit that's a good truck for the money) unles syou mean the practice session.

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Read the DESC210 first page thread on RcTech. It tells you how to shim the front and rear hubs so they don't bind and come loose. Once I did the shimming, never lost a wheel unless I busted something.
Just had a look at the first page and I can't see anything about shimming, I'll search a bit more later though.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:02 PM   #1233
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/596475-team-durango-desc210r.html

Hope this works
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:09 PM   #1234
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Also found the Kyosho W0149, servo spacer kit works for the wheel distant bushing if you can't find the Durango ones. Actually like these better because they are a tad thicker and didn't need the extra 0.1-0.3 shims. But I would get them just to shim to pefection and you will need the thin ones for the rear.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:14 PM   #1235
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I need convincing that shimming is the answer, I know plenty of Durango SC people who have never had the problem (including me when I ran it as a SC) so I'm wondering why the answer to what appears to me to be ST specific problem is on the SC thread?
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:05 PM   #1236
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I need convincing that shimming is the answer, I know plenty of Durango SC people who have never had the problem (including me when I ran it as a SC) so I'm wondering why the answer to what appears to me to be ST specific problem is on the SC thread?
Stadium, I was just trying to help out. As you know they both share similar parts. I and others have had problems with wheels falling off, both SC and ST. When shimmed you can crank down the nuts, and I prefer serrated over nylock, without any binding and they don't work loose. Mainly in the rear with the plastic hexes. The aluminum rear hexes really help with this problem but you should still shim for binding. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:00 PM   #1237
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I need convincing that shimming is the answer, I know plenty of Durango SC people who have never had the problem (including me when I ran it as a SC) so I'm wondering why the answer to what appears to me to be ST specific problem is on the SC thread?
Shimming the hubs allows you to be able to crank the wheels nuts down without worrying about binding.

I also recommend applying just a touch of thread lock to the pins, it helps hold them in place. Don't use too much or you'll struggle to get them out again
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Old 06-28-2016, 12:14 AM   #1238
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Ok, I know that the ST arms in the rear are easy to break! So today I was at the hobby shop and I was going through some durango parts that the owner had and I saw a Pair of SC 4wd arms in the bin and these babies look like they would work in the ST very easily and look to be ALOT more beefy! In fact I think that they would COMPLETELY cure the issues of the rear arms being an issue at all. I think they would need some slight sanding on the inner hinge pin side to make the a bit narrower but I think they will fit no problem otherwise! Any thoughts or anyone else ever used/tried these out on the ST?
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:39 AM   #1239
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Ok, I know that the ST arms in the rear are easy to break! So today I was at the hobby shop and I was going through some durango parts that the owner had and I saw a Pair of SC 4wd arms in the bin and these babies look like they would work in the ST very easily and look to be ALOT more beefy! In fact I think that they would COMPLETELY cure the issues of the rear arms being an issue at all. I think they would need some slight sanding on the inner hinge pin side to make the a bit narrower but I think they will fit no problem otherwise! Any thoughts or anyone else ever used/tried these out on the ST?
I thought the same thing and actually ordered a pair. Starting sanding and grinding. More needs to be taken off than I thought. They are also set with more toe in. The outer hub is too narrow as well and had to sand there. I looked at all the work I was putting in and the look of the AArm after and ditched the idea.

Went to the steel wire twist and was sold. Much easier and has worked great.

I think somebody back in this thread showed the Kyosho rear arms are a better match, they are narrower and I think if you go with a 12mm hex and different offset rims you may have something. Don't know if whomever what going to try it ever did.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:10 AM   #1240
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Stadium,
Where did you find bodies?? They are back ordered everywhere.
Thanks
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:14 AM   #1241
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Stadium,
Where did you find bodies?? They are back ordered everywhere.
Thanks
I guy I know was selling 4 wheels and tyres and two bodies, all second hand, for 15 so I had the lot off him
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Old 06-28-2016, 01:13 PM   #1242
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I guy I know was selling 4 wheels and tyres and two bodies, all second hand, for 15 so I had the lot off him
NICE!!!
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Old 07-01-2016, 06:33 PM   #1243
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Has anybody found a body that fits yet? I was thinking about trying a T5M body.
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Old 07-01-2016, 06:59 PM   #1244
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Just reposting this from the op on on a body option

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13771452-post1079.html
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Old 07-02-2016, 08:58 AM   #1245
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Just reposting this from the op on on a body option

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13771452-post1079.html
Thanks. Looks like it's an RT6 body.
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