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Team Durango DESC210R

Old 10-21-2012, 02:06 PM
  #1171  
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
Battery placement makes a big difference for sure, and it's not unusual at all for your preference to be different than other's. Moving the shocks in on the arm will soften the rear end and could help with exit traction, and I've usually found that standing them up on the tower helps it to square up on power. If that's not enough, try the kit spring instead of the light red. What track are you running at?

We have also changed the pistons in both SC trucks and the ST to 2 holes. Cush's ST and SC both have 2x1.5 front with 30 losi and 2x1.6 rear with 27.5 losi. That, and he preferred the stick pack yesterday over the shorty. He TQ'd stadium truck and won it at the Fall Classic, and qualified 2nd in open sc, but had a tough race. The trucks were super dialed though on the track's super high bite surface- we ran slicks from start to finish... If traction stays like this for our indoor season I'll be changing to mid motor for sure. The grip is just ridiculous

thanx jonny will give all that a try.
would have loved to make it down there to race.
but my tire order didnt make it in.dont have any clay tires.

race at hobbytown in lake in the hills.up north from you.
here is a video from yesterday's race.


http://youtu.be/WxLWQw_Oegg?hd=1
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:10 PM
  #1172  
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Originally Posted by discgolferlee View Post
Please post pics!
I can't post any pictures or URLs yet but I could email it to you then maybe you could post it.I just need your email address. I would also like to share my setup sheet since my truck is really hooked.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:57 PM
  #1173  
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Anyone making or thought about making a better body mounting system? I know it's meant to be flexible to take impacts, but the body moves around so much with those flimsy mount systems.
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Old 10-21-2012, 03:03 PM
  #1174  
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Originally Posted by subaru_tech View Post

race at hobbytown in lake in the hills.up north from you.
here is a video from yesterday's race.


http://youtu.be/WxLWQw_Oegg?hd=1
I would race a mini-z on that track
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:43 PM
  #1175  
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ball studs broke. The rear camber link that attaches to the diff housing side. Went to adjust it and half the ball had disintegrated. Is there some titanium upgrades for this truck yet?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCNWU&P=7

That one work fine? Its for the DEX210, or should I order the one for the DESC410 ?

Bought some AE parts and it held up fine for the rest of the race night. No issues. However today practicing, with the amount of idiots and bashers just launching there stuff onto the roofs of others, it pulled the rear tire a bit and since the screw itself is a tiny bit narrower, it stripped the diff housing area. The balls are a bit narrower, but during the 2 qualifying heats and two mains, never had an issue.
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:18 PM
  #1176  
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The kit for the 4x4 is a little short for this truck. I built a little cheaper option myself. I didnt see any need for Titanuim ballstuds. I used twenty-two ball studs and Lundsford turnbuckles. They fit nice because they are M3 thread so all the hardware is the same. With the associated stuff the threads are slightly smaller so it seems to strip faster and the countersunk nuts dont fit. I did not do the steering though because of the curved ball cups. You could probably bend these ones to work though.


These are the parts I used-
2x TLR6023-22 ballstuds
1x LNS7998-4.8mm ballcups
2x LNS35072- 72x3.5mm turnbuckles
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:28 PM
  #1177  
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Put mine up over in the classifieds if anyone is interested check it out. Or pm me.
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:41 PM
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What does less kick up do for the truck ?
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:29 PM
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kick up or do you mean the anti-squat in the rear?

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...ng-anti-squat/

Just a link for a generic description

I initially did the 1.5 anti-squat. For the hell of it I swapped to the 0* anti squat block. I had to dremel down the little ridges so the arms could fit. Where it angles out (the little raised edge area) I just dremeled it to be a continuous smooth edge. Can take a pic if anyone needs it, although I did see it previously posted either in this thread or another.

Whatever my setup is, it really liked the switch to 0* for my style of driving and my track. So I'm glad I swapped it out.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:54 PM
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ok thanks for that . so how do i limit traction rolling
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:42 AM
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gotta say I boarded the team durango train this season with a dex210 and desc210r and am starting to rethink/doubt leaving my durable losi vehicles behind.
I am a a-main driver and am having a hard time even finishing heats with either.
first race night it was ballcups popping.
after 80 bucks worth of ball studs and cups from a different brand I have eliminated that problem so far.
Friday night race night included.
rear wheels falling off both vehicles
rear front hingepin holder breaking on buggy once and truck 3 times
rear cvd falling out of diff outdrive on truck. damaging the outdrive

had me questioning ebaying all my rc stuff!

So I thought well I gotta drop some more coin on the vehicles just to get them across the finish line by buying some rear front aluminum hinge pin holders. then I read of some people installing those and then the rear of the chassis breaking due to aluminum parts. is their an end in sight or are these durango vehicles money pits forever.

sorry don't mean to whine like a little b$tch but seriously. I raced all last winter and broke 2 rear plates on my losi xxx-sct and 2 front lower plates on my team c tc02c buggy. over the whole season!

Last edited by discgolferlee; 10-22-2012 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:06 AM
  #1182  
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Originally Posted by mad dog clarke View Post
ok thanks for that . so how do i limit traction rolling
Limit droop, lower ride height, or change tires. If you're traction rolling on entry, raising the front roll center (lowering the inner ballstud) can help as well.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:10 AM
  #1183  
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
Limit droop, lower ride height, or change tires. If you're traction rolling on entry, raising the front roll center (lowering the inner ballstud) can help as well.
More camber helps sometimes too.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:12 AM
  #1184  
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Originally Posted by discgolferlee View Post
gotta say I boarded the team durango train this season with a dex210 and desc210r and am starting to rethink/doubt leaving my durable losi vehicles behind.
I am a a-main driver and am having a hard time even finishing heats with either.
first race night it was ballcups popping.
after 80 bucks worth of ball studs and cups from a different brand I have eliminated that problem so far.
Friday night race night included.
rear wheels falling off both vehicles
rear front hingepin holder breaking on buggy once and truck 3 times
rear cvd falling out of diff outdrive on truck.

had me questioning ebaying all my rc stuff!

So I thought well I gotta drop some more coin on the vehicles just to get them across the finish line by buying some rear front aluminum hinge pin holders. then I read of some people installing those and then the rear of the chassis breaking due to aluminum parts. is their an end in sight or are these durango vehicles money pits forever.

sorry don't mean to whine like a little b$tch but seriously. I raced all last winter and broke 2 rear plates on my losi xxx-sct and 2 front lower plates on my team c tc02c buggy. over the whole season!
The RF and RR aluminum hinge pin mounts are a must have. I would bet that those that have broken the chassis in that area are either crashing spectacularly or over tightening the screws. Our trucks are battle tested, and while I admit I was nervous about the plastic chassis because of the breakage I had heard about in the ST thread, ours have been great without issue. Running plastic hinge pin mounts is asking to DNF though.

If you have your rear axles shimmed then the nut can be tightened down really tight- I mean locked down, and wheels should not fall off, period.

I wish I had an answer for the dog bones falling out, but until we experience it I don't know what to look for. Two SC's and an ST with stock axles and no issues at all for us.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:24 AM
  #1185  
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
The RF and RR aluminum hinge pin mounts are a must have. I would bet that those that have broken the chassis in that area are either crashing spectacularly or over tightening the screws. Our trucks are battle tested, and while I admit I was nervous about the plastic chassis because of the breakage I had heard about in the ST thread, ours have been great without issue. Running plastic hinge pin mounts is asking to DNF though.

If you have your rear axles shimmed then the nut can be tightened down really tight- I mean locked down, and wheels should not fall off, period.

I wish I had an answer for the dog bones falling out, but until we experience it I don't know what to look for. Two SC's and an ST with stock axles and no issues at all for us.
Yeah was just irritated. I know it's rc and crap breaks. lol
yeah axles shimmed and nuts were pretty tight. will have to try and go tighter lolololol.
I need to get 2 rf aluminum holders as well as a pack of the little pillow ball things that the hinge pins rest on in those holders. Are the tresrey the only available on the market right now. I can't believe team durango doesn't make some. They should include aluminum rf and rr in the kit if they break that easy. It suprises me how many kits these days cheap out on stuff like that when it is something that discourages people from purchasing and or staying with their brand of vehicle. just my feedback for them
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