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Team Durango DESC210R

Old 11-14-2012, 10:27 AM
  #1831  
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Originally Posted by ApacheRacer View Post
Ok so I have went through and re-read the manual and looked back over my truck and I cannot figure it out. When I put my steering full either way the rim rubs on the ball cup preventing full steering, so my truck doesn't turn as sharp as it could and I have no solution to fix it. Was jw if anyone else has this problem and how they fixed it?
same boat... All assembled per manual, even shaved the ball cups a bit, but need that last bit more...
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:58 AM
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Wierd. My steering with tweek my chassis and bottom out the hubs before the wheel rubs.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:00 AM
  #1833  
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
I'm not familiar with the RPM stuff- I've always had the stance that it's great for bashers but has no place on my "race car". That said, to use RPM ballcups you have to swap out all your ballstuds to AE size (TC5 ballstuds will work if you want). I really like the design of the TD ballcups, eliminating the necessity to pop it off to make a ballstud washer or location adjustment, so I've always kept them on our cars.
Oh i was thinking you said you had all straight ball cups.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Werner View Post
Do you run the B4 turnbuckles on the DEX210?
Not yet. The buggy was built with all the stock stuff and two sc trucks and an ST have been getting most of my attention. I'm pretty sure they will fit though, but the rear will have to have straight cups- only an issue if you are running the outer most hole on the hub.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:24 AM
  #1835  
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Originally Posted by Crawlin View Post
take a pic and post it up so we can see how you have the ballcups.

the servo is going to have a longer throw than what the car is capable of actually turning. my expo on my servo is set to 70-75 depending on setup. And that is PLENTY enough turning capability for the amount of hairpins our track has(alot).

there will be a physical limitation of the steering system of the truck so don't think just cause the servo goes further means the truck can
Yes I understand that and I have my end points on my servo set so that it doesn't rub the rim but then the truck seems to not have enough steering for the hairpin corners.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:42 AM
  #1836  
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Originally Posted by ApacheRacer View Post
Yes I understand that and I have my end points on my servo set so that it doesn't rub the rim but then the truck seems to not have enough steering for the hairpin corners.
K, always gotta start at the beginning of things, haha

Got a pic from the top side of the truck with the wheels at full lock?

Just interested to see how far its going

EDIT - one thing I will mention is I did the losi ballstuds and the lunsford turnbuckle/ballcups mentioned earlier in this thread and it seems I have quite a bit more steering than I did before

I also had the ballstuds mounted in the rear of the steering/ackerman plate. I did move it up all the way to the front to see the differences in how it feels for when its all back together

Last edited by Crawlin; 11-14-2012 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:05 PM
  #1837  
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Originally Posted by AlanHall View Post
Oh i was thinking you said you had all straight ball cups.
I do have all straight ballcups- there are enough supplied in the kit to do the whole car if you use longer turnbuckles. As for why it is the way it is- the sc and st share almost everything except the chassis and a few small bits. On the st, the bent ballcups are needed for wheel clearance. To keep kit costs down, the same ballcups were shipped with the sc. Basic economics there. Fwiw, I used an AE B4 turnbuckle kit on the st to keep all of the bent ballcups where they needed to be for proper clearance of the front wheels. Fit perfectly.
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:40 PM
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Oh i see. For some reason i didn't even think you meant using all straight TD all cups lol
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Crawlin View Post
K, always gotta start at the beginning of things, haha

Got a pic from the top side of the truck with the wheels at full lock?

Just interested to see how far its going

EDIT - one thing I will mention is I did the losi ballstuds and the lunsford turnbuckle/ballcups mentioned earlier in this thread and it seems I have quite a bit more steering than I did before

I also had the ballstuds mounted in the rear of the steering/ackerman plate. I did move it up all the way to the front to see the differences in how it feels for when its all back together
I would put pics but I am not sure how to do it and my screw is in the middle of my ackerman plate and what do you mean you use the losi ballcups??
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:52 PM
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i forgot what page it is on in this thread but I am using -

TLR6023 Ball Studs (2 packages)
LNS7998 Ball Cups
LNS35072 Turnbuckles(2 packages)

This gives you enough for the front end. Rear camper links are still stock for me.

These are the 4.8 balls for the losi stuff instead of the durango 4.5 (i think they are) and allows you to then purchase stuff at your local track in case anything breaks. Has proven beneficial for me.

I should say "steering angle" not saying just with the switch to these my truck miraculously is a turning machine, haha
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Crawlin View Post
i forgot what page it is on in this thread but I am using -

TLR6023 Ball Studs (2 packages)
LNS7998 Ball Cups
LNS35072 Turnbuckles(2 packages)

This gives you enough for the front end. Rear camper links are still stock for me.

These are the 4.8 balls for the losi stuff instead of the durango 4.5 (i think they are) and allows you to then purchase stuff at your local track in case anything breaks. Has proven beneficial for me.

I should say "steering angle" not saying just with the switch to these my truck miraculously is a turning machine, haha
And then you put the screw in the back hole on the ackerman plate?
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:22 PM
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Crawlin:
So I was just wondering how all othese parts will change and give me more steering?
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:40 PM
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"in my own opinion"

since the shanks of the cups were shorter, it allowed me to change my expo on the transmitter from full lock to full lock before it rubbed. Without using the bent angled cups as well, it allowed me to add 10-15pts of expo on the steering while still keeping the suspension set at its previous point.

also, for the ackerman plate -

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...ing-ackermann/

that's for more driving situation than just static sit and look at how far the wheels turn
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ApacheRacer View Post
Ok so I have went through and re-read the manual and looked back over my truck and I cannot figure it out. When I put my steering full either way the rim rubs on the ball cup preventing full steering, so my truck doesn't turn as sharp as it could and I have no solution to fix it. Was jw if anyone else has this problem and how they fixed it?
I had the same problem and was an easy fix. Make sure the four little plastic shims that go on your hinge pin with the front castors are all in the back of the castor shimming your wheel as far forward as possiable hope that helps
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Badcompny44 View Post
I had the same problem and was an easy fix. Make sure the four little plastic shims that go on your hinge pin with the front castors are all in the back of the castor shimming your wheel as far forward as possiable hope that helps

That isn't it... It is OK as it is, just need to use more brake to rotate the back end around than I am used to. Would be better if I could just turn the wheels a tiny bit further.
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